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I read on one of the iterations of this forum that the pattern(s) of the 1968 Mustang convertible top fabric were altered from what they were back when the cars were originally produced. In addition to the change in dimensions to the top fabric components, the rear bow specification was changed. I believe the changes to the fabric components and the rear bow placement dimension were required to take some of the stress off the rear window seam, thereby lessening the need to detach the folding window from the fabric top.

I put this out there in a cryptic way, not naming names, hoping that those who wrote knowledgeably of this issue back then will confirm, refute, or explain:

  1.  That the specs were, or were not changed from the original design and rear bow spec.

And,

  2.  If the top fabric and rear bow height were changed by the top manufacturers, to lessens the stresses on the folding window, is there still a need to detach the folding window before the top is retracted?

And,

  3.  If the top fabric dimensions were changed, will a convertible top manufacturer provide a convertible top made to the original specs, for those who want the "as manufactured" look?

I printed the thread and filed it in a safe place, so I can get to it later but...

I know of a few convertible owners who won't retract the top on there cars because it creates wrinkles and they don't want a wrinkled top, so I don't doubt that others will separate the folding glass before retracting the top, whether or not it's needed as a precaution.

Happy Motoring

Steve

Looking for a correct radiator for my 02/14/1968 build date GT500, 4-spd, with A/C to replace the generic one currently in use.

What is the difference between the L, L1 & L2 suffix designations, and which is most appropriate for my car?

Steve

Thank you Bob.

I'm searching for NOS, or best looking reproduction, key blanks for my 02/14/1968 built Shelby. I'm being specific regarding the date because in my search I read that the early car keys had a simple round hole and later keys had elongated holes. (See below)

Did the early keys and the late keys have the Ford logo on one side and the, "FAMILY OF FINE CARS" motto, in all caps, on the other?

Both styles seem to be readily available.

There are several sources for tool design and tool acquisition information. Here is a link to the Vintage Mustang Forum that gives very specific tool design info. If you look deep enough in the web, you'll see examples of how some guys use a section of 2" x 4" lumber.

1st Gen Mustang Upper Control Arm Support Tool

Makes me want to get back in the '66 saddle again. I had 6S2295. It was also sold by McCafferty Ford. I like the chrome wheels on the late cars.

Steve

Now, seeing that good info has long legs and life span, and a properly executed search has returned the desired info, are we still having to accept that the info on SAAC Forum 1 is truly lost? Reading the discussion with contributions from our Heavy Hitters Dan, Drew, Doug, and Randy certainly adds credence to a topic where respected opinions matter.

I think you may have several options. If the clutch and pressure plate are original to the car, it may be larger than what is currently available. I believe originals are 11-1/2" dia as opposed to 11" dia.

Another alternative is to replace the 3-finger pressure plate and compatible clutch disc with a diaphragm pressure plate and compatible clutch disc.

The guy that installed my GT500 drive train used the diaphragm and clutch disc. So far, it seems okay, but I've read that it may malfunction by not re-engaging the clutch disc at high RPM shifts. To be on the safe side, I retained my 3-finger pressure plate and worn clutch disc, should I decide to get them rebuilt.

Steve

Is 01767 supposed to be an AC car or a non-AC car? To me, adding AC or omitting AC would be a major Oh $hit mistake if I were cloning a Shelby.

Steve

In the event you can't find a nice one, here's some pretty good info on a related forum:

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=27967.0

Steve

Thanks Royce. I did not know that the 427MR shaft stands were shorter as well as wider. I thought I could use them instead of the aluminum stands that were used on the 428PI and 428CJ engines. I was mistaken.

I'm working on rebuilding a date code correct block to replace the original block that was cracked. When building this new engine I'll very likely keep it in stock configuration and use the stock aluminum supports, unless I can find a set of reasonably priced, good 427LR cast iron supports.

The engine currently in the car is a 428CJ I yanked out of a '69 Cobra Torino. Its CJ heads have Precision Oil Pump's components; rocker shafts, shaft supports (including shaft end supports), roller tip adjustable rockers, push rods, and solid rocker arm spacers and shims. It's a little stronger than stock, and I like the increased durability in the valve train.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

Steve

I'm of the understanding that the 428 & 428CJ rocker arm shaft aluminum stands are dimensionally compatible, with respect to width and shaft bore centerline to stand base dimensions, with each other and the 427LR shaft cast iron stands. Is that a safe understanding?

Is there a benefit to replacing the standard 428 & 428CJ aluminum shaft stands with the 427LR steel shaft stands?

I'm also of the understanding that the 427MR rocker arm shaft cast iron stands are slightly wider, approx. 0.015", than the 427LR shaft stands. That would be 0.0075" rocker arm pad to valve stem offset per side. If 427MR shaft stands are used as replacements for 428 or 428CJ shaft stands, what damage is likely to happen?

The 428 and 428CJ heads have large bevels where oil feeds through the head to the rocker arm shafts, such that neither the 427LR nor the 427MR shaft stands would restrict oil to the rocker arms on 428 heads.

I hope all this makes sense. Please correct me where I'm mistaken.

Steve

I wonder how the current owner of 5S146 feels about a reproduction VIN tag, stamped as being 5S146, being used on a tribute, as decoration and what recourse (s)he has?

Carjackings may be up in Philadelphia, but my copy of The Shelby American 2022 Annual was delivered without incident.

My world is complete.

Two Shelby owners and the current owner of this car need to be concerned with this car.