Topics

Looking for a correct radiator for my 02/14/1968 build date GT500, 4-spd, with A/C to replace the generic one currently in use.

What is the difference between the L, L1 & L2 suffix designations, and which is most appropriate for my car?

Steve

I'm searching for NOS, or best looking reproduction, key blanks for my 02/14/1968 built Shelby. I'm being specific regarding the date because in my search I read that the early car keys had a simple round hole and later keys had elongated holes. (See below)

Did the early keys and the late keys have the Ford logo on one side and the, "FAMILY OF FINE CARS" motto, in all caps, on the other?

Both styles seem to be readily available.

I'm of the understanding that the 428 & 428CJ rocker arm shaft aluminum stands are dimensionally compatible, with respect to width and shaft bore centerline to stand base dimensions, with each other and the 427LR shaft cast iron stands. Is that a safe understanding?

Is there a benefit to replacing the standard 428 & 428CJ aluminum shaft stands with the 427LR steel shaft stands?

I'm also of the understanding that the 427MR rocker arm shaft cast iron stands are slightly wider, approx. 0.015", than the 427LR shaft stands. That would be 0.0075" rocker arm pad to valve stem offset per side. If 427MR shaft stands are used as replacements for 428 or 428CJ shaft stands, what damage is likely to happen?

The 428 and 428CJ heads have large bevels where oil feeds through the head to the rocker arm shafts, such that neither the 427LR nor the 427MR shaft stands would restrict oil to the rocker arms on 428 heads.

I hope all this makes sense. Please correct me where I'm mistaken.

Steve

I just found out, through feedback on this forum, that my speedometer needle bounce, at low speeds, may be because of a kinked or dry drive cable, rather than an actual speedometer issue. That's a relief, because I may be able to fix it myself rather than having to send my speedometer out for a repair, that it may not need.

Recommendations were to add a graphite lube down the speedometer cable assembly, replace the drive cable if it's kinked, or replace the entire speedometer cable assembly.

It seems that if I choose to add a graphite lube it may be best to remove the cable to examine it for kinks and to better allow the lubricant to travel down through the cable sheathing. If the cable is kinked, can I use the cable from a reproduction cable assembly? I haven't seen an OEM speedometer cable assembly for a 4-spd, BB Mustang for sale in quite some time.

If working on the speedometer cable assembly doesn't fix the needle bounce, I guess I'll have to have the speedometer fixed.

Steve

"Viva Las Vegas" is one of my favorite movies. I'm an Elvis fan, an Ann Margaret fan, a fan of the song "Viva Las Vegas", and a Cobra fan. That movie presses all the buttons. I just noticed that there may have been two 2000 series Cobras in the movie, a white one and a red one. I couldn't get a good screen shot of the white Cobra but was able to get one of the red Cobra. What Cobras were used in the movie?



Steve

Looking for the above referenced with a date code between early/mid Dec 1967 and early/mid Jan 1968, for GT500 built on Feb 14, 1968. Ideal date code would be 7M18 to replace my cracked manifold.

Steve

[E]

When setting adjustable rocker arms on an engine with an hydraulic flat tappet cam, should I remove the distributor to manually spin the oil pump in an attempt pump up, or maintain pressure within the hydraulic flat tappet lifter for the rocker arm being adjusted?

I'm otherwise okay with the process of adjusting the rocker arms and offer the following as a check and for a basis of general discussion.

When an engine has a stock, or a mildly modified cam, I'm told that adjusting the rocker arms for each cylinder at TDC is preferred. This is because there's less chance of confusion, and at TDC both valves in that cylinder should be closed, meaning both lifters are on the heels of the camshaft.

I have also read about and used the EOIC method. Followers of the EOIC method believe this is a better method of determining that the rocker arm being adjusted has the associated lifter on the heel of the cam lobe, and minimizes errors due to variations in cam profiles for increased lift duration.

For those unfamiliar with the EOIC method, it may come across as being complicated or confusing, because you're monitoring one valve's motion and then adjusting the other valve. Additionally, as you work down a cylinder bank, you'll need to pay attention to the pattern of exhaust and intake valves. FE heads have the valve pattern of E-I, E-I, I-E, I-E, whereas the 289, 302 & 351W heads have a valve pattern of E-I, E-I, E-I, E-I. Anyway, the EOIC method breaks down like this:

Pick a cylinder for the exhaust and intake valves you want to adjust.
Rotate the crankshaft until the Exhaust valve of that cylinder begins to Open.
Stop rotating the crankshaft and set the Intake valve to zero lash and then tighten an additional 1/2 turn*.
If you have a locking nut, you can snug it now.
Rotate the crankshaft until the Intake valve begins to Close.
Stop rotating the crankshaft and set the Exhaust valve to zero lash and then tighten an additional 1/2 turn*.
If you have a locking nut, you can snug it now.

*  Check with the cam or lifter manufacturer for this pre-load. I have read where some mechanics use additional pre-loads ranging between 1/2 turn and 1 full turn.

Steve

Are the threaded holes that secure the H-pipe to exhaust manifold 3/8"-16 or 7/16"-14? I believe both threaded holes take studs. RH manifold has 1 through hole and 1 blind hole. LH manifold has 2 blind holes.

I'm chasing the threads. The 3/8"-16 seems correct, but the threaded holes seem like a bigger tap would be better.

Steve

I have an X-pipe, dual muffler, stainless steel, Magna Flo exhaust system on my GT500 convertible. Feeding the system are Hooker headers that I bought back in the mid-to-late '70s. They were in pretty good shape so I had them Jet Hot coated in silver. The exhaust system looks and sounds good, but I haven't found exhaust tips that look like the '68 Shelby pipe-in-pipe.

I saw that one of my SAAC Super Heroes, ShelbyDoug, has tips that I was looking for.



Talk to me/us ShelbyDoug. Based on that picture, and other mods you've written about doing, I'm betting that you're not using a 2" exhaust, but yet you found a source for exhaust tips that look kinda like the '68 Shelby pipe-in-pipe. I'd like to get something similar. What is your recommendation? Are they a Scott Fuller custom?

Steve

I was reading a discussion started by a guy who was seeking advice on disassembling and rebuilding or reassembling a '66 HiPo 289. The discussion turned to the topic of the need for hardened exhaust seats in his engine. Randy weighed in and stated:

   Steve,
      The reason not to do it is there is no reason to do it in the first place. IF the heads suffer from seat recession , then by all means have exhaust seats installed. If they do not , you don't have a problem to fix in the first place. Replacement seats have been known to "fall out" if installed with "too little" press fit , and crack the head under the seat if installed with "too much" press fit. Much paranoia was created in '72 when Ford cast a bunch of "junk" 351C 2V heads that had seat recession and horrible guide wear. As I mentioned gas formulations have been improved to reduce seat recession and it rarely happens now days.
   Randy

I recently had the original, to my GT500, C8AE-H FE heads rebuilt to stock specs. Except for the mention of the '72 351 2V heads, my engine builder's advice pretty much paralleled Randy's advice. Because I remember a time when using hardened exhaust valve seats were commonly recommended, I pressed him for the reason why he didn't think I needed them.

He told me that they're not needed for today's pump gas, especially if the car will be used for typical recreational and spirited driving. He also added that putting hardened exhaust valve seats in 390 GT or 428 CJ heads is a bit challenging due to how close the intake and exhaust valves are to one another. With that said, he told me that if I wanted the hardened exhaust valve seats he'd be able to add them, but their cost and installation would increase my cost of the rebuild. I opted against their use. If I was going to use the car for cross country highway trips or repeated and regular drag racing, he recommended I use a lead additive, otherwise I should be fine without fuel additives.

I open this topic in a new thread for 428 engines to solicit comments, pro and con, for hardened exhaust valve seats. I'd also like to hear from those who have had the hardened seats installed on 390 GT or 428 heads. Has it been a good decision or were there unexpected outcomes.

Steve

C7ME
C scratch
Reinforced block
Date codes from 7M15 to 8A26

I may also be interested in slightly earlier date codes.

Steve

[Block]

This posting is part a request for information and part a request for help in sourcing date code correct parts.

My car was completed on 02/14/1968, so it is that date that'll be used for the context of information and parts.

I removed and disassembled the engine back in the mid to late '70s with the hopes of rebuilding it because it lacked power and smoked horribly. Beyond that, I did not document anything about the engine identifiers. I stored the useable components and bought a 428CJ.

The PI block was cracked in several places, in the lifter galley, and subsequently scrapped. There is no hope or possibility of getting it back. I'm primarily looking for a suitable block and maybe a connecting rod and maybe an exhaust manifold.

Block
What engineering code should I look for; C6ME, C7ME, or C8ME?
What scratch should I look for; A or C?
What date code ranges should I consider? I was thinking that 7L(late), 7M, or 8A(early) might be considered okay? I think an early 7L and a late 8A wouldn't work.
Did the PI block have 2 or 3 web mains and are 3 web mains found only on the C scratch block?
Will "428" be found cast into a water passage covered by one of the core plugs?
Based on the heads (see below), I figure I could use either 7M or 8A(early). Would a 7L be too early for my car?

Crank Shaft
Was the 1U crank the only crank used in a '68 GT500?

Heads
The heads that came off my car's engine are:
     C8AE-H 8A22
     C8AE-H 7M26
The 7M26 head has a stamping that I believe may be related to my car's VIN. The car's VIN is 8T03S169334-01425. Here is the stamping.




Unfortunately, the stamping is less than ideal, but I read it as 8T1(?)9334.

Connecting Rods
The rods that were in the engine were:
     (1) C6AE-C
     (7) C7AE-B
Were both the C6AE-C and C7AE-B rods used in the 428 PI in 1968? Do I need to find another C7AE-B, or can I reuse the C6AE-C? Are they interchangeable?

Exhaust Manifolds
The exhaust manifolds that were on my car were:
     C7OE-A 7M29
     C8OE-A 7M16 + a spacer
The C8OE-A is cracked, so it'll need to be repaired or replaced.

Crank Shaft Windage Tray
Did the 428 PI come with a crank shaft windage tray?
What benefit does it provide?

Lifter Galley Windage Tray
Did the 428 PI come with a lifter galley windage tray?
What benefit does it provide? I presume it minimized oil splash on to the aluminum intake manifold.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

Steve

Some time ago, my fan shroud broke when it was in storage. It's since been repaired and painted black to mask the repair. I've since stripped off the black paint and was hoping I can have the repair masked to better match the original appearance.

What services are out there to address this situation?

I bought a bunch of acrylic colors from an arts and craft chain store, thinking I may be able to blend up a color, but that may be an exercise in futility and frustration.

Here's what I dealing with:











In addition to the repair, there are a few spots that seem to have been discolored by a chemical.

Steve

I was fortunate enough to have found someone who had a NOS pair of Marchal 653 fog lights for sale. My '68 GT500, completed on 02/14/1968, 01425 came with Marchals. When I bought the car, the lenses were broken and the bulb sockets and reflectors were rusted trash, but the housings were in very good condition. The plan was to purchase new lenses and sockets and possibly have the bodies re-chromed. Even though I may still rebuild them, I'll concentrate on installing the NOS pair I just bought.

I want to shout out Tim Lea. He was quite accommodating in answering my questions about Marchal 653 installation. Turns out it was described in the "1968 Shelby GT 350/500 Illustrations, Assembly Procedures & Parts List" that I bought many years ago. All the more reason to shout out Tim and our other expert resources. Very rarely, if at all, do they tell us to look it up in some manual.

Something surprised me about the installation of those lamps; the pedestals and washer bases. The ones that were on my car were stainless steel. I had thought they would be chrome plated mild steel. Even though they looked terrible, I was able to buff them up to a very high, nearly perfect chrome like shine.

Anyway, now I'm looking for a pair of covers. I spent some time at the Fall Carlisle event but couldn't find any. I found a pair of hard plastic clip on covers, but no soft fabric-like covers. When I asked about the soft covers, all I got back in return were dismissive looks and negative replies. Here's an ad that was in one of the boxes that held a 653 I just bought.



Does any body have a pair for sale or know where I can get them. Please PM me if you have a pair to sell. I couldn't find them on the web, but it looks like they come in a kit of new repo Marchal 653s. I'll be trekking to Hershey this weekend to continue my search.

Steve

I'm looking for some good ole fashion help with detailing my trunk.

8T03S-01425 was built on 02/14/1968, it's a white car with black interior and top. It also has the early style recessed side reflectors.

I need the correct:

• trunk floor mat
• luggage protector strip
• side reflector screw caps (Are they used in my car?)
• location information for the trunk stickers and decals

Pictures would be a tremendous help.

Thanks,

Steve