Messages

The pin is only in the bearing cap, not in the block.

Not a bad video. The only part I don't agree with is the pin should be driven down flush. That pin is only used with the original rope seal. Some people remove the pin, but it's short enough that it can be driven in flush and not protrude into the pan gasket end seal. In my mind, removing the pin just gives you another chance for a leak.

I bought my car the same night at BJ in 2016. I remember chatting briefly with Brent, nice guy.

His car sold about an hour before mine and I thought to myself "Wow, $150K for a GT350 fastback. The GT500 convertible is going to go too high for me". Ended up going for the same money.

I was fairly confident the the authenticity of mine. It had all original VIN tags and date stamps lined up. I was able to see the fender stamped Ford VIN from underneath.  I had also Googled the VIN and knew it was a triple crown car and had sold for $330K at BJ in Palm Beach.

You can do some fine tuning with adjustable strut rods.  If you go too crazy, it will destroy the lower control arm bushing.

You can also order direct and save a few bucks. Same lead time.

https://waldronexhaust.com/product/1965-69-ford-mustang-concours-model-arvinode-dual-exhaust/

No problem.  Good luck!

Richard,

You need to have the car on the ground before taking measurements.  After you let it down, roll it back and forth a few times to allow the tires to settle on the floor.

None of mine really leak. I would call it varying degrees of seepage. Rarely hits the floor. Just looking for better.

You're way more patient than I am. I thought they would be readily available by now. Just a good thing I don't have any projects going at the moment. Please keep us posted.

I've never gone as much as 1/3. I usually offset it about 1/2" and use Ultra black RTV on the joint. I find myself second guessing the lube on the crank. You want enough that the RTV doesn't stick to the crank and the seal is lubed at start up, but not so much that it affects the RTV.

I'm pretty anal about oil leaks if you haven't guessed.

I remember seeing this seal and wanting to try it.  Haven't yet. A little pricey, but might be worth a shot.

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=31328.msg224999#msg224999

I weld cast iron at my shop regularly.  I always pre heat and use nickel ferrite rods and if possible slow the cooling process.  I'm not usually concerned with appearance, so I lay it on heavy.

It needs to be filed flat first. The stamp causes the metal around it to raise quite a bit.

FoMoCo stamped one is a service unit. A little body work and you're good to go.

$100 seems like a "no-brainer" for a correct part.  Probably the cheapest correct part you'll find for a Shelby.