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None of mine really leak. I would call it varying degrees of seepage. Rarely hits the floor. Just looking for better.

You're way more patient than I am. I thought they would be readily available by now. Just a good thing I don't have any projects going at the moment. Please keep us posted.

I've never gone as much as 1/3. I usually offset it about 1/2" and use Ultra black RTV on the joint. I find myself second guessing the lube on the crank. You want enough that the RTV doesn't stick to the crank and the seal is lubed at start up, but not so much that it affects the RTV.

I'm pretty anal about oil leaks if you haven't guessed.

I remember seeing this seal and wanting to try it.  Haven't yet. A little pricey, but might be worth a shot.

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=31328.msg224999#msg224999

I weld cast iron at my shop regularly.  I always pre heat and use nickel ferrite rods and if possible slow the cooling process.  I'm not usually concerned with appearance, so I lay it on heavy.

It needs to be filed flat first. The stamp causes the metal around it to raise quite a bit.

FoMoCo stamped one is a service unit. A little body work and you're good to go.

$100 seems like a "no-brainer" for a correct part.  Probably the cheapest correct part you'll find for a Shelby.

#0244

Mecum website lists it as sold for $79,200

Someone put a lot of work into that carpet. Maybe it was added to muffle the noise from the rear? Maybe they added the rear speakers for the same purpose.

Have you asked Chuck if he remembers the car?

And only $180 to ship them UPS Ground! Ouch!

What does the date code translate to?  T8MA

Is there a difference between the later die cast lid and a 68 lid?  Besides the wrinkle finish.

Very cool.  Thanks.   

The link doesn't seem to work.