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Congrats Mark!

I'm pretty sure I have a scrap harness in my stash. I'll dig it out and see what the plugs look like. Give me a day or two. They do get brittle after 60 years.

If it's only the plastic, buy the pigtail and transfer wires into the new plastic piece. There's little tabs that need to be depressed to release them from the plastic. There are lots of videos on Youtube about de-pinning plugs.

I think that's kind of a safety factor when they rate them.  Alternator should be putting out around 14-14.5 volts when running.

You could try these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133631145622?_skw=1895g+bulb&itmmeta=01KXCDAGHHN7PWMSR6VM8HX9TE&hash=item1f1d097696:g:ybkAAeSwPIZp5He0&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAAwGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBWkHclQP02Oyd5EgOuXmoCisydHwVjNZ7XtXEfxrgykiiINmEWqS95bIW6z649CEok8hLBaxfa7XXnZ7bMGUyDJaYBKmK8qSQlj1XwKV9GJqCk1rduuprY%2FROxyYr%2B0XiJUxgThmtN3zU1ldNuU4JcPs6hZhXXjkAeEdzNJPPuSlOvv%2FRHm%2BoYqgDKfy%2BvBxgbMl4dT4PxX4lAV3MP1SX0b8b9Mr%2BxuwxGq6tC4zP8%2BA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5yJqo3rZw

Thanks Charles.  I've tried that, but unfortunately, he's not the only one. There's a bunch of them that do the same thing.

I tried searching for a 65 mustang door latch and there were over 7,000 items.  I cut it down to under 1,000 items by checking Ford only. Still a lot of crap before I found an original and it was overpriced junk.  Thankfully, I figured out what was wrong with my original.

eBay searches have become useless because of people like him. You used to be able to search "Title Only", but I don't see that option anymore.

Bret,

Have you tried letting it sit outside on a hot sunny day? That should get some heat in the canvas and allow it to stretch. If you get it to latch, put it back in the sun and let it get hot again and then add some weight between the bows and allow to cool. I have used some rolls of carpet or bags of dog food. Repeat as necessary. Store with the top up.

I had a C4 that would occasionally leak a bunch of fluid, most of the time it wouldn't leak much.  Turned out to be a worn shift shaft.

I have also found that if you have to persuade the dipstick mounting tab to line up, it can cause the O-ring to leak.

The pin is only in the bearing cap, not in the block.

Not a bad video. The only part I don't agree with is the pin should be driven down flush. That pin is only used with the original rope seal. Some people remove the pin, but it's short enough that it can be driven in flush and not protrude into the pan gasket end seal. In my mind, removing the pin just gives you another chance for a leak.

I bought my car the same night at BJ in 2016. I remember chatting briefly with Brent, nice guy.

His car sold about an hour before mine and I thought to myself "Wow, $150K for a GT350 fastback. The GT500 convertible is going to go too high for me". Ended up going for the same money.

I was fairly confident the the authenticity of mine. It had all original VIN tags and date stamps lined up. I was able to see the fender stamped Ford VIN from underneath.  I had also Googled the VIN and knew it was a triple crown car and had sold for $330K at BJ in Palm Beach.

You can do some fine tuning with adjustable strut rods.  If you go too crazy, it will destroy the lower control arm bushing.

You can also order direct and save a few bucks. Same lead time.

https://waldronexhaust.com/product/1965-69-ford-mustang-concours-model-arvinode-dual-exhaust/

No problem.  Good luck!