Messages

Jim Morrison was right... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E0E3_c8AxA

Parish Heacock is a broker.  Have you called them to complain and ask that they get quotes from other carriers?

They are not brokers, they changed underwriters from American modern to American family. I had to change my mileage from 3,000 to 1,000 a year on 11 cars with a $5,000 deductible to be $300 over my old rate. 

My gt500 is black jade / white interior (my car was unrestored when I purchased it) and The trap door was black. My friends 70 is the same.

I just inspected our original first printing 1966 Owner's Manual from 6S1467 and the checkering at the tip of the "C" looks the same, however, the "W" is very precise and has no waviness.  Since the 2nd printing "artwork" was made from a copy of the first, it's understandable that it would be less precise.

So we now have through 853-1467 with first printing, let's see if we can find the latest  car with a first printing manual.

Hi Bob, I am not sure you understood me, I am saying the second printing (with the hole punch and other changes) were not the original ones delivered with the cars. I am saying they were a later reprint from SA.

Then you might not have understood my post which in short said if a owners manual was not put in a car by mistake then a alternate manual may have been put in place by the dealer. Ether one gets a pass given it was far from a rare occurrence base on the evidence.

So we are saying the same thing, these are not the original manuals printed for the cars but a second printing from SA. You are just adding that some of the cars may have been sold new with the second printing for a variety of reasons.

Hi Bob, I am not sure you understood me, I am saying the second printing (with the hole punch and other changes) were not the original style delivered with the cars. I am saying they were a later reprint from SA.

Also my car (853) has the first printing manual.

I do not believe that version was ever delivered with the cars when new. I think they were printed at a later point and sold through SA. 

Congratulations 427hunter (your new avatar could now read in theory as 289finder) on reacquiring the original engine block for your Shelby.  The fact that it stayed in existence is a small miracle in itself.  It was meant to be as part of your life journey. 

Well it found me, it appears my life's journey is to spend money...... ha

Sounds like a good plan. Did it come with anything at all?

Cheers

I h

Congrats! What's the plan from
Here?

The block is going to a machine shop in Vegas and we shall see what it needs. I have a complete correct hipo 289 in my car now so once the short block is done I am going to just transfer the top end over.

It was pointed out to me that I should not show the block date and assembly date so I cropped the photo - thanks for the info..

Would not worry about assembly date or casting date but its up to you. BTW you didn't show the assembly date that I saw - only the machining date for the block that can't be seen once the engine is assembled

Thanks for the info - btw that date is the same at the date on the pad in front of the head. Except on the oil pan lip it looks like it ends with a "o" and on the pad in front of the head that date ends with a "w" any idea what those letters behinds the dates mean or what the zero in front of the C5AE means?

It was pointed out to me that I should not show the block date and assembly date so I cropped the photo - thanks for the info..

Well I figured I would give an update, I now have the block, anyone know what the 0 before the C5AE stands for ? The block is filthy but standard.

427 Hunter, did you share how the seller of the block and you came together?

I mean, for all he knew it was a K-code block only. Was he the former owner of your car? That would help explain how he knew it belonged to your car.

Just curious on the back story.

I really don't want to get into it because it will only make me angry, listing my  Shelby number (853) in my profile was enough for the middle man to find me. 

If the car wasn't so special, then ignoring the offer wouldn't matter so much.  Sometimes it is a much larger thing that drives the motivation for a big asking price, and I would pin some of it on the macroeconomics of an enormously mismanaged economy that we have endured for a specified period of time.  Men may be feathering their nests for a possible upcoming devastating blow in the not-so-distant future.

My rudimentary understanding is that the 289 engine can only be bored .030 once and then no more due to the thin wall construction, no?

  Better to go .30 then sleeve it.  I hope I am able to ball hone it, polish the crank and ring and bearing it - wishful thinking I know.....

Once ya go .30 thats the end of the block. I'd sleeve it an keep it standard bore. Sleeving has come a long way. If the standard bore is loose you can cure it with coatings. We race a V6 Buick Turbo. 8 sec @ 150+. Buick blocks are getting harder to get so we try an keep the block survivable for more rebuilds.
.... What if ya did go .30 an had an engine fail ? Shit happeneds ... If ya need an info on coatings message me. 

Appreciate it, I am picking it up this weekend so when I get it home I will know more - I hope I can leave it standard and ball hone it, we shall see.

Question:  He has the short block but do you have all the correct items that were originally on it (intake, carb, dizzy, timing cover, etc.)?

Yes, I alread have a correct hipo 289 in the car - that's why I was reluctant to buy the block.