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Pending sale.  I'm selling my 1965 SA GT350 holley 3259 Date code 541. It was rebuilt by
Drew about a year ago and has about 400 miles on it ( I can provide the invoice and emails from drew displaying it was restored). The reason I'm selling, I finally found the correct dated carburetor for my car ( My newly 1966 restored carb just returned from Drew) I've had this 1965 dated carburetor for many years
and used it briefly on my hipo motor while finding the correct dated carburetor and waiting until restoration was completed.  I will enclose additional pictures and a video you can watch to see run and the 65 dated carb operates perfectly. Once drew restores a carburetor it purrrrs like a kitten.  Message, text, email, or call me with questions. Thank you for looking and possibly enjoy this carburetor as a early Christmas gift for yourself. Free shipping in the 48 states.
cell 256 658 9149 (leave message if i don't answer immediately)  email rraceme@aol.com

Btw i can provide additional pictures if needed. I was limited to how many I could download when making this post.

Brant. Thank you for the feedback. I realize you are not directly telling me to take pictures rather stating generally this is a good strategy.  Yes I've taken over 800 photos prior to disassembly.  Unfortunately the rear valance was Not on the car when I purchasped it. But yes I agree with suggestion to document everything prior disassembly.  Thanks fred

Jeff thank you and brant for the great detailed
information. If someone
has side profile pictures of both types of screws it would be appreciated if post images to this thread. Jeff couple more questions.  When owners restore these cars do the have some of the different styled screws body color and the others not? 2nd  question.... why didn't the factory put all the screws in at once? What was the value of just some pan head screws being installed prior painting. Seems like all screws would be installed at same time. Thanks again for everyone's amazing knowledge.  Fred

Thanks brant. Adding one more pic.

Pic 3

Pic 1.2

Hello, I've been working on my restoration (slowly) of 2227 for the last 3 years. I prefer to use either NOS or assembly line parts when able. One of the most difficult parts to find (my experience) would be an original assembly line or over the ford parts counter rear valance. i purchased a valance about 2 years ago and then another one yesterday in Atlanta. Not that i needed a 2nd valance but when I saw the date code in the metal I knew it was an OEM part and I wanted it. When I arrive home I compared the two units and noticed a difference with the holes to bolt the valance to the lower part of the tail panel. It could be different assembly plants used different styles?  I'm no expert on rear 1966 valances but I know many of the forum have this knowledge. notice one has slots and the other has a round holes. I only took pics of the center on the valance which displays the stamped date code and examples of the different screw holes. if someone wants me to load more pictures I can. BTW Yes both valances have the cut outs for back up light and they both look machined punched. Also, I was told at the Carlisle national ford show last year that 1966 valances with the cut out for BU lights were not available NOS? Easy to find with No BU light cut outs or exhaust cut outs. specifically I'm asking about the style of valance used on a 1966 GT-350's. 

Please let me summarize my questions: 1) are these original parts displayed in pics?  2) what are the differences with the two valances? (based off screw holes) 3) is this part available NOS? 4) which style valance would be correct for my san jose car?

Lastly, Thank you for reading my long post and I really appreciate your feedback.

Members is the spring pictured in the 6th posting in this thread the correct styled spring? I ordered an NOS spring a few years ago but doesn't look like the one pictured in top of this thread. 

Hello, when i was stripping 6S2227 a few years ago i took these pictures once I removed the original insulation pad. IMHO, my car has not been disassembled prior and in its original state. The spring in pic has nothing to do with the bracket. As you see it in the picture is how it displayed when removing it. I was very careful w\pics because I see many of these missing on HiPo;s and GT350's. It has a small plastic insulator between the bracket and firewall. I see others have already posted their brackets too - just thought someone might find this interesting.  Thanks Fred

Thank you Tom but I'm just happy to help and pay it forward. I too have found this forum very help! Thanks fred

Scott I appreciate your contribution yet must say I'm not an idiot. I did do something dumb but making a mistake does not make me (or anyone else) an idiot. Additionally I'm not a 1960's ford engineer, IMHO the design was not "sound engineering" (maybe functional engineering) otherwise they would have never changed it, yet head design was changed to something better w\the 302.  I will never make this mistake again because I learned from my mistake. As I stated before, I've installed hundreds intakes (if you include Ford, Chevy & Chrysler) and NEVER had a failure.

Thank you SAAC forum I really enjoy this amazing Forum. Fred

I wouldn't be so fast to let the intake off the hook.

you are funny coralsnake!  No it is all on me. The blue thunder intake was not at fault. I will weld the intake up and reuse at another time.

Thank you all. So looks like I didn't do my homework prior installation. I've always used my 12, 20,26 lbs torque sequence but I've been wrong.
I will follow the correct installation instructions moving forward.  Thank you SAAC forum for your guidance.  Fred

Thanks Bob.  I just purchased the Scott drake intake you suggested. Hopefully someone can tell me what I did wrong in my installation to break the intake tab. I'm doing a few cosmetic enhancements to the original intake to present better. Which is why not installed now.  I wanted break in motor and dial in first. Then later install original intake. The only error I can think of is I tighten beyond torque limits and broke end. But I had wrench at 26lbs? I'm a little aggravated too I did something dumb.

 I was installing a cobra intake on my hipo motor from car 6S2227 and while in my 3rd and final round of tighten bolts the intake end broke. I was using a torque wrench, started at 12 lbs, then 20 lbs, last setting 26 lbs and the corner cracked. (See pic). What did I do wrong? I've installed 50 aluminum intakes in my life on 302's and never had this happen.  Only saving grace, this was an aftermarket blue thunder intake.... not my original intake. Still I hate destroying my intake. Also this was my 1st time installing any intake on a 289 engine all my previous intakes are 302's. Prior installing intake i knew 289's have slightly shorter head mating surface, weaken mounting area, & exposing the bolt. But I assumed by following same torque sequence would work just fine.  So before I destroy another intake please advise me what I did wrong? Lastly thank you for your assistance I've found this forum incredibly helpful and friendly. Fred

BTW - i can load more pictures of removed intake if helpful in diagnosing issue.