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Thank you all. So looks like I didn't do my homework prior installation. I've always used my 12, 20,26 lbs torque sequence but I've been wrong.
I will follow the correct installation instructions moving forward.  Thank you SAAC forum for your guidance.  Fred

Thanks Bob.  I just purchased the Scott drake intake you suggested. Hopefully someone can tell me what I did wrong in my installation to break the intake tab. I'm doing a few cosmetic enhancements to the original intake to present better. Which is why not installed now.  I wanted break in motor and dial in first. Then later install original intake. The only error I can think of is I tighten beyond torque limits and broke end. But I had wrench at 26lbs? I'm a little aggravated too I did something dumb.

 I was installing a cobra intake on my hipo motor from car 6S2227 and while in my 3rd and final round of tighten bolts the intake end broke. I was using a torque wrench, started at 12 lbs, then 20 lbs, last setting 26 lbs and the corner cracked. (See pic). What did I do wrong? I've installed 50 aluminum intakes in my life on 302's and never had this happen.  Only saving grace, this was an aftermarket blue thunder intake.... not my original intake. Still I hate destroying my intake. Also this was my 1st time installing any intake on a 289 engine all my previous intakes are 302's. Prior installing intake i knew 289's have slightly shorter head mating surface, weaken mounting area, & exposing the bolt. But I assumed by following same torque sequence would work just fine.  So before I destroy another intake please advise me what I did wrong? Lastly thank you for your assistance I've found this forum incredibly helpful and friendly. Fred

BTW - i can load more pictures of removed intake if helpful in diagnosing issue.

Yes Rick I enjoyed you too. Maybe next time we can go out on track together. Glad you made it to the show!

yes it was my first SAAC national show and enjoyed it. Arrived Wednesday noon and stayed through end of day Saturday, traveled 810 miles round trip. Super easy SAAC registration\check in.   I brought my slow Nascar race car and drove in the SAAC track event Thursday & Friday.  I met amazing long term SAAC members and made new friends with Larry Corda (cool car 6S172 raced in the vintage SAAC race),  Doug 6S2318, Joe (Boss 429), Rick & Carl. Very nice cars and better people. Tony Branda parked beside me in his 289 AC Cobra! Spent a little time with Howard Pardee & Kurt Vogt.   Was very pleased for my first national show- it exceeded my expectations. The Indy racetrack is iconic and blessed to drive on the track at speed. Lastly, the SVRA event was a bonus.  Thank you all which participated in making this happen and I hope we do it again at the Indy track soon.

As far as attendance, a Indy track worker told me on Saturday over 1000 spectators tickets were sold. I've never been to a previous SAAC National show but I would say about 100 to 125 cars displayed on Saturday. It was a mixture of all cars displaying. It seemed like a good turn out.

Question - In the past, has there ever been a SAAC "approved or certified" car which did not have its original VIN? Maybe not the Dennis Collins car ........ but, in general, could a car be approved through SAAC using circumstantial documentation?

SAAC works incredibly hard to ensure accuracy in the chain of custody and integrity of each car. My gut tells me SAAC would NOT certify a car without its original VIN.

Does anyone know of any past examples? Thank you fred

My car was built after yours ( 2227 in late April or early May) and my engine build date is 6D20L. It might help to use as a comparison.  Good luck on your friends purchase, Fred

As I was comparing previously posted pictures of the tach mounting holes. Amazing how all holes are located in identical locations.  You would think (unless SA technician using a template) might put some in a slightly different location. Here is mine too, It was nice seeing the original color when i removed the old original dash pad. Question. The screws used to hold down tach mount look the same as used to mount the dash instrument cluster in dash.  If this correct? Thanks Fred

what protective coating is used to keep parts which have a bare steel finish from rusting? a flat and satin clear coat?

Congratulations Steve for 50 years of great ownership!  I enjoyed meeting you at the national ford show in Carlisle in 2021. You and your car presented well.

Jeff- I'm not sure how-to re-post the pictures but in this original thread ( on page 1) dated 2\28\ 2019 listed pictures of earlier and later examples of 1966 GT350's side scoops. It was a red scoop and white scoop displaying my same plastic rivet. Maybe it was not your pictures, but someone in this original thread posted those 2 pictures in 2019.

Sorry to continue to further this rivet issue but it is really important for me (and potentially others with later built GT-350s) when i start reassembly. 

thank you, Jeff, for your guidance- Fred

Jeff / Bob,  thank you for your response. Looking at this thread back in Feb 2019 Jeff loaded a couple pics of other cars with same rivet configuration. Also I took pics today of the RH side and is the Same. Though I know I can't be 100 percent on this suggestion, but I've restored or stripped a lot mustangs and my car looks like it was never wrecked. Maybe I'm not clearly understanding your suggestion, but seems if you don't think they are SA original? .

Thank you for the responses. I'm assuming the moisture plastic barrier cover was installed at the San Jose plant when built, if I implied was installed at S.A. I apologize.  It was only on the passenger side of car but both sides have the glue residue suggesting at one time both sides has moisture barrier installed. I'm no expert, but maybe when the SA tech installed my cars duct hose rather than removing plastic barrier, on the RH side just moved out the way? I will load pictures of glue on surface. It is funny how when I loaded pics of the unique rivet someone saw the moisture barrier. I don't get to read our forum often but it is incredibly entertaining when I do.  Thank you all, fred

Corey- it was thick, about 2 mm or so and clear in color. only attached at the very top. bottom and sides were hanging loose (as seen in pictures). The way you see it in the pictures is the way i saw it when i first removed interior panel. Though it is hard to say- it looked flat but was cut to fit that interior panel.  My guess, when Shelby American was installing duct work- technician pulled it off during installation. 

My wife feels very sad about what happened. We foster old or sick dogs and she had no idea the dogs might damage anything. I've restored and stripped LOTs of 1965-66 mustangs and I've never seen one on a fastback either, i was excited when i saw this one.

More pics