I got my KR about two or three months ago; the horn initially worked intermittently, but now it doesn't work at all. I will assume from that fact, that the problem is not in the horns per se, but somewhere in the wiring or contacts in the steering wheel. If this is a common problem, where would the most likely solution be? Also, I've heard that some of the replacement parts for the horn rim and button are junk. Can anyone shed light on this before I start replacing parts? Thanks and sorry for the never ending stream of questions as I learned about this great car. Steve.
Quote from: Steve Meltzer on December 11, 2023, 10:12:02 AM
I got my KR about two or three months ago; the horn initially worked intermittently, but now it doesn't work at all. I will assume from that fact, that the problem is not in the horns per se, but somewhere in the wiring or contacts in the steering wheel. If this is a common problem, where would the most likely solution be? Also, I've heard that some of the replacement parts for the horn rim and button are junk. Can anyone shed light on this before I start replacing parts? Thanks and sorry for the never ending stream of questions as I learned about this great car. Steve.
I would check the horn itself first. Jumper wire from the battery to the horn terminal to see if it/they work. There is a adjustment screw to adjust pitch (for contacts inside horn) which can somtimes bring otherwise non working horns back to life. Sometimes the horns just die internally but more typically it is something else. Checking for a good horn grounding point is also a good place to start . I typically will make bare metal to metal contact under the horn bracket , radiator support and bolt using dielectric grease to protect from rust in a way that you can't tell when assembled just to be on the safe side. Expecting to get good ground through painted parts with the hope of a bolt scratching down to good metal is too iffy for my liking. Of course it could be in the steering wheel but I start looking out by the horns.
Press horn actuator while turning steering wheel in both directions first . Checking for voltage at horn itself would be
my next step .
So much for my assumptions, I'd better start with the logical part..... the horns themselves. Thanks guys, Steve.
I have had the same thing too. Occasionally it is the contacts or wiring but typically it is the horn itself or both horns not working.
As it turns out the Corvette uses nearly the identical horn (different bracket), so I got rebuild kits from ZIP. Instructions are here:
https://www.corvettemagazine.com/1957-1975-corvette-horn-rebuild/
Thank you, Royce. steve
The kit you want is for the later, smaller diameter horns. The original rivets have a waffle like pattern on the manufactured head. You can buy a waffle pattern rivet set to simulate that if you want.
Kits: https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 11:41:50 AM
The kit you want is for the later, smaller diameter horns. The original rivets have a waffle like pattern on the manufactured head. You can buy a waffle pattern rivet set to simulate that if you want.
Kits: https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Do they sell the kits from what they show in their instructions with the vibrating discs and hammers? The link they have doesn't exist.
The mentioned Zip horn rebuild kit can work but don't have unrealistic expectations. It has been my experience that the rebuild kits only cover the simplest of inside repairs relatively speaking . Basically if I could get a horn to still at least squeak I could by opening it up and cleaning the inside contact etc. I could put it back together with the gasket and rivets provided . If it doesn't make a noise or even vibrate then typically more extensive components not provided in the kit have issues. If that is the case you are dollars and time ahead to source another used working donor to detail for your replacement.
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 11, 2023, 12:52:40 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 11:41:50 AM
The kit you want is for the later, smaller diameter horns. The original rivets have a waffle like pattern on the manufactured head. You can buy a waffle pattern rivet set to simulate that if you want.
Kits: https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Do they sell the kits from what they show in their instructions with the vibrating discs and hammers? The link they have doesn't exist.
When I click on the link it shows in stock, ships tomorrow.
https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Maybe Bob is getting worse horns than I am because all of the ones I have taken apart the kit works perfectly to fix the horn.
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 07:55:32 PM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 11, 2023, 12:52:40 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 11:41:50 AM
The kit you want is for the later, smaller diameter horns. The original rivets have a waffle like pattern on the manufactured head. You can buy a waffle pattern rivet set to simulate that if you want.
Kits: https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Do they sell the kits from what they show in their instructions with the vibrating discs and hammers? The link they have doesn't exist.
When I click on the link it shows in stock, ships tomorrow.
https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Maybe Bob is getting worse horns than I am because all of the ones I have taken apart the kit works perfectly to fix the horn.
It shows 4 gaskets and rivets. In the PDF article they show the kit and a link to it including the vibrating discs and hammers. That link doesn't exist when you click on it. The pic below the kit link is shown in blue at the top and the complete kit with discs shown.
I am working on my horns as we speak.
The hard part is getting the old rivets out.
I've decided to use 10-32 black button head screws instead of new rivets. That could always be changed later.
What I found is that the points in mine are fine but the vibrating hammers are coated with a white corrosion.
I'm about to put them in the glass beader.
Mine are all date coded and original to both cars as far as I can tell so it is worth the effort.
In my case all of the original gaskets came off and frankly I'm not sure why you can't reuse them OR just use black silicone instead?
I will see if my procedure will actually keep them from working?
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 12, 2023, 09:30:59 AM
I am working on my horns as we speak.
The hard part is getting the old rivets out.
I've decided to use 10-32 black button head screws instead of new rivets. That could always be changed later.
What I found is that the points in mine are fine but the vibrating hammers are coated with a white corrosion.
I'm about to put them in the glass beader.
Mine are all date coded and original to both cars as far as I can tell so it is worth the effort.
In my case all of the original gaskets came off and frankly I'm not sure why you can't reuse them OR just use black silicone instead?
I will see if my procedure will actually keep them from working?
In the article they state that the 2 gaskets create a gap that is needed. So if you could use a product and keep the needed gap it wouldn't be an issue? Use some of the old material in the right places while sealing with the silicone.
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 12, 2023, 09:23:42 AM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 07:55:32 PM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 11, 2023, 12:52:40 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 11:41:50 AM
The kit you want is for the later, smaller diameter horns. The original rivets have a waffle like pattern on the manufactured head. You can buy a waffle pattern rivet set to simulate that if you want.
Kits: https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Do they sell the kits from what they show in their instructions with the vibrating discs and hammers? The link they have doesn't exist.
When I click on the link it shows in stock, ships tomorrow.
https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Maybe Bob is getting worse horns than I am because all of the ones I have taken apart the kit works perfectly to fix the horn.
It shows 4 gaskets and rivets. In the PDF article they show the kit and a link to it including the vibrating discs and hammers. That link doesn't exist when you click on it. The pic below the kit link is shown in blue at the top and the complete kit with discs shown.
That's the kit I always use. It has fixed every horn I ever took apart. I have not needed anything else ever.
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 12, 2023, 10:15:55 AM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 12, 2023, 09:23:42 AM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 07:55:32 PM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 11, 2023, 12:52:40 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 11:41:50 AM
The kit you want is for the later, smaller diameter horns. The original rivets have a waffle like pattern on the manufactured head. You can buy a waffle pattern rivet set to simulate that if you want.
Kits: https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Do they sell the kits from what they show in their instructions with the vibrating discs and hammers? The link they have doesn't exist.
When I click on the link it shows in stock, ships tomorrow.
https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Maybe Bob is getting worse horns than I am because all of the ones I have taken apart the kit works perfectly to fix the horn.
It shows 4 gaskets and rivets. In the PDF article they show the kit and a link to it including the vibrating discs and hammers. That link doesn't exist when you click on it. The pic below the kit link is shown in blue at the top and the complete kit with discs shown.
That's the kit I always use. It has fixed every horn I ever took apart. I have not needed anything else ever.
so your vibration discs and hammers were fine and a cleaning fixed them? The kit shown is for assembly of the 2 parts of the horn and not any internal parts. I got a LOT of nice 67-70 Horns and when I get the time(retirement) I'll try all the tricks to get them working before taking any of them apart. Thanks for your reply Royce.
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 12, 2023, 10:55:49 AM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 12, 2023, 10:15:55 AM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 12, 2023, 09:23:42 AM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 07:55:32 PM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 11, 2023, 12:52:40 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 11, 2023, 11:41:50 AM
The kit you want is for the later, smaller diameter horns. The original rivets have a waffle like pattern on the manufactured head. You can buy a waffle pattern rivet set to simulate that if you want.
Kits: https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Do they sell the kits from what they show in their instructions with the vibrating discs and hammers? The link they have doesn't exist.
When I click on the link it shows in stock, ships tomorrow.
https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html
Maybe Bob is getting worse horns than I am because all of the ones I have taken apart the kit works perfectly to fix the horn.
It shows 4 gaskets and rivets. In the PDF article they show the kit and a link to it including the vibrating discs and hammers. That link doesn't exist when you click on it. The pic below the kit link is shown in blue at the top and the complete kit with discs shown.
That's the kit I always use. It has fixed every horn I ever took apart. I have not needed anything else ever.
so your vibration discs and hammers were fine and a cleaning fixed them? The kit shown is for assembly of the 2 parts of the horn and not any internal parts. I got a LOT of nice 67-70 Horns and when I get the time(retirement) I'll try all the tricks to get them working before taking any of them apart. Thanks for your reply Royce.
I have only needed to try and internally restore horns that do not work . I can find a better use of my time then taking apart already working horns. If you can get them working prior to disassembly like you say then it would logically be counterproductive to take them further apart . It is no small job to drill out the rivets, clean the internals and re rivet them back together in a way that they look undisturbed. I would only disassemble them if all else fails. I guess if you don't have anything else to do then a extra waste of your time makes no difference.
Bob, I would only take apart horns I could not get to work. I have had success before getting horns to work and usually working the screw and always making sure I have a metal to metal ground-just like the starter solenoid(do ask me why) and your tip on dielectric grease is great. I also use it on electrical plug bullets. I got at least a dozen real nice horns I need to work on someday.
Yes, getting them apart is a bear. The rivets, although not hardened, are difficult to center punch to get the drill bit started.
The shape of the exterior castings does not lend itself well to being held firmly in a vice.
Mine are original to two cars and none work. On disassembling them I can see why.
Not all would agree with my priorities or me in general, so that is to be as expected.
Presuming that I am successful in getting them to work, my concern is how often will they need to be disassembled. The issues I see are definitely weather and environment related.
I've found that allen socket button head screws are often mistaken for rivets once installed. You can get them in black stainless steel relatively inexpensively.
To me that solution is fine since it is going to make knowledgeable individuals casually glancing at least momentarily be confused. That's fine for my purposes.
I'm not the type that needs original air in the tires.
At this point I would venture to say that there are not many original date coded horns that still work.
Sometimes small victories are important?
I haven't measured the thickness of the paper gaskets yet but they are VERY thin. Looks like somewhere around 5 thousands or so. The need for them as spacers is noted.
[/quote Bob Gaines]
I have only needed to try and internally restore horns that do not work . I can find a better use of my time then taking apart already working horns. If you can get them working prior to disassembly like you say then it would logically be counterproductive to take them further apart . It is no small job to drill out the rivets, clean the internals and re rivet them back together in a way that they look undisturbed. I would only disassemble them if all else fails. I guess if you don't have anything else to do then a extra waste of your time makes no difference.
[/quote]
I do try the adjustment screw first. That will fix maybe 1 in 10 horns. The majority need to be taken apart and cleaned. They were often found 25 years ago. Not any more. I restore cars for other folks so when I disassemble anything I am being compensated for my work. I don't waste any time and if good original horns were to be had I would have them. Reproductions are fine for some folks, not good enough for others.
I have a lot of experience drilling out and installing rivets from my years at the aircraft mines. It's no big deal to do if you have the proper tools and experience. Rivets can be daunting to the uninitiated.
Well, all of the intense discussion about speakers thankfully won't apply to me. Both horns work when 12 V are applied and furthermore applying 12 V to the incoming blue wire makes the other horn sound. So I would think that the problem is indeed at the contact point in the steering wheel. Little to suggest it's the horns or the wires leading to them. Thanks again and please correct me if I've misinterpreted the information. Steve.
You lucked out. I have four of my horns appart thanks to interest generated in this post.
I have no continuity through the points so I am presuming that means that the coils are shot?
Oh well. I tried. It's pretty obvious that they were never intended to be rebuildable with everything riveted together? Just cheap throw away's that probably cost Ford a couple of bucks each new?
The ones I have repaired all started life having no continuity. It was because of dirty points every time. I have yet to find one with a bad coil.
Steve you can connect a voltmeter to the horn wire and measure to see if you are getting 12 volts or not. I did once have a reproduction steering wheel that was assembled with screws that were too long. That in turn caused the horn to be permanently shorted to ground. The circuit breaker inside the headlamp switch burned out before I isolated the problem. So I got to replace the hardware in the steering wheel and replace the headlamp switch to fix the horn.
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 12, 2023, 01:56:14 PM
[/quote Bob Gaines]
I have only needed to try and internally restore horns that do not work . I can find a better use of my time then taking apart already working horns. If you can get them working prior to disassembly like you say then it would logically be counterproductive to take them further apart . It is no small job to drill out the rivets, clean the internals and re rivet them back together in a way that they look undisturbed. I would only disassemble them if all else fails. I guess if you don't have anything else to do then a extra waste of your time makes no difference.
I do try the adjustment screw first. That will fix maybe 1 in 10 horns. The majority need to be taken apart and cleaned. They were often found 25 years ago. Not any more. I restore cars for other folks so when I disassemble anything I am being compensated for my work. I don't waste any time and if good original horns were to be had I would have them. Reproductions are fine for some folks, not good enough for others.
I have a lot of experience drilling out and installing rivets from my years at the aircraft mines. It's no big deal to do if you have the proper tools and experience. Rivets can be daunting to the uninitiated.
[/quote]Royce my comments were meant to be generalized and not specifically towards you so please don't take it that way. If you have had success I am happy for you. There is always going to be that guy who has different experiences.
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 12, 2023, 05:24:17 PM
The ones I have repaired all started life having no continuity. It was because of dirty points every time. I have yet to find one with a bad coil.
Steve you can connect a voltmeter to the horn wire and measure to see if you are getting 12 volts or not. I did once have a reproduction steering wheel that was assembled with screws that were too long. That in turn caused the horn to be permanently shorted to ground. The circuit breaker inside the headlamp switch burned out before I isolated the problem. So I got to replace the hardware in the steering wheel and replace the headlamp switch to fix the horn.
I cleaned all four sets of points with an emery board. There is no continuity through the points themselves. That I just do not understand.
I got all of the rivets out Bob but once I got the knack it still takes 30-40 minutes a horn to get them out.
while we are on the subject, were these horns originally painted all black or was it silver cad on the steel and just the snail gets painted?
I did a bunch of my horns a few years back. I carefully ground the waffled part of the rivet off and drove the rivet out. Cleaned everything up and coated with rust inhibitor, similar to Boeshield. I made my own gaskets from the heaviest brown paper handle bag I could find. I put them together with nuts and bolts to test. Alignment of the holes is critical to good tone.
After I was happy with the function, I decided to make the look right. I put the original rivets in the lathe and cut the shoulder back a little, about .050", if I remember correctly. I then took a punch and ground the waffle pattern into the face and replaced the nuts and bolts one at a time using a clamp next to the rivet I was working on.
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 12, 2023, 07:05:08 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 12, 2023, 05:24:17 PM
The ones I have repaired all started life having no continuity. It was because of dirty points every time. I have yet to find one with a bad coil.
Steve you can connect a voltmeter to the horn wire and measure to see if you are getting 12 volts or not. I did once have a reproduction steering wheel that was assembled with screws that were too long. That in turn caused the horn to be permanently shorted to ground. The circuit breaker inside the headlamp switch burned out before I isolated the problem. So I got to replace the hardware in the steering wheel and replace the headlamp switch to fix the horn.
I cleaned all four sets of points with an emery board. There is no continuity through the points themselves. That I just do not understand.
I got all of the rivets out Bob but once I got the knack it still takes 30-40 minutes a horn to get them out.
while we are on the subject, were these horns originally painted all black or was it silver cad on the steel and just the snail gets painted?
Everything black except power terminal . The terminal had a mask on it when painted so paint typically stop a little up from the base of the tab. That paint point can very.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 12, 2023, 09:36:52 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 12, 2023, 07:05:08 PM
Quote from: Royce Peterson on December 12, 2023, 05:24:17 PM
The ones I have repaired all started life having no continuity. It was because of dirty points every time. I have yet to find one with a bad coil.
Steve you can connect a voltmeter to the horn wire and measure to see if you are getting 12 volts or not. I did once have a reproduction steering wheel that was assembled with screws that were too long. That in turn caused the horn to be permanently shorted to ground. The circuit breaker inside the headlamp switch burned out before I isolated the problem. So I got to replace the hardware in the steering wheel and replace the headlamp switch to fix the horn.
I cleaned all four sets of points with an emery board. There is no continuity through the points themselves. That I just do not understand.
I got all of the rivets out Bob but once I got the knack it still takes 30-40 minutes a horn to get them out.
while we are on the subject, were these horns originally painted all black or was it silver cad on the steel and just the snail gets painted?
Everything black except power terminal . The terminal had a mask on it when painted so paint typically stop a little up from the base of the tab. That paint point can very.
Thanks Bob. That helps.
OK, I got out there, and the horn only works when pushed at the 3 o'clock position of the rim. It also seems to me that the hor onlyn blows consistently if you let it rest about a minute between attempts. This is with the ignition off. If you stop honking the horn and then try again immediately in 15 seconds or 410 it will not work but if you wait about a minute the full force of the horn resumes. Is there some reason or someway that it stores electricity and than hesitates to regenerate? It does not appear to be easy to pry off the centerpiece that goes from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock and I was afraid I was going to break it so I did not get in any deeper than what I've just said. Thanks, Steve.
Quote from: Steve Meltzer on December 13, 2023, 01:10:16 PM
OK, I got out there, and the horn only works when pushed at the 3 o'clock position of the rim. It also seems to me that the hor onlyn blows consistently if you let it rest about a minute between attempts. This is with the ignition off. If you stop honking the horn and then try again immediately in 15 seconds or 410 it will not work but if you wait about a minute the full force of the horn resumes. Is there some reason or someway that it stores electricity and than hesitates to regenerate? It does not appear to be easy to pry off the centerpiece that goes from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock and I was afraid I was going to break it so I did not get in any deeper than what I've just said. Thanks, Steve.
The center pad is held on by 2 screws from the backside of the steering wheel assembly.
Quote from: Steve Meltzer on December 13, 2023, 01:10:16 PM
OK, I got out there, and the horn only works when pushed at the 3 o'clock position of the rim. It also seems to me that the hor onlyn blows consistently if you let it rest about a minute between attempts. This is with the ignition off. If you stop honking the horn and then try again immediately in 15 seconds or 410 it will not work but if you wait about a minute the full force of the horn resumes. Is there some reason or someway that it stores electricity and than hesitates to regenerate? It does not appear to be easy to pry off the centerpiece that goes from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock and I was afraid I was going to break it so I did not get in any deeper than what I've just said. Thanks, Steve.
Post #3 on this topic by me would have taken you there faster , time to remove the steering wheel and check the slip rings on the wheel along with contacts attached to turn signal switch.
Hey Lincoln Tech, I was trying to take a shortcut! Does the centerpiece with the faux wood trim just pull off or put a plastic trim remover underneath? I don't wanna break it. I'm sure you're right: the steering wheel needs to come off. Thanks, Steve
Do NOT play with the woodgrain insert on top , there is 2 screws in the back of the wheel ( take them out ) and the whole pad with come off . Take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GT_6_g5bPM4
THANK YOU!! A+++ I'm on it. s
Lincoln Tech ...thanks again for the link to the video, which was most useful. I took the horn off the steering column, but did not really need to remove the steering wheel per se. Sanded and cleaned up the contacts and everything seems to work great now. Looking for one of the two screws that hold the trim piece in the center and I will be completely done. (No, I didn't lose it. It was not there when I removed the centerpiece!) Thanks again, Steve.
Excellent , I'm glad you got it .
Me, too! thanx again. s
Hey. Thanks to this thread, I took my four horns apart.
I learned quite a bit about making them work. All except for one. As they say, there is always one in every bunch!
They are very crude little devices. Even so, you SHOULD NOT hit them with a hammer to get even with them.
Ironically enough, I found that really the key element to making them work is the tone set screw. Aparently it corrodes and looses continuity?
That makes sense about some comments about resetting that screw to make them work.
If these things weren't date coded and original to the two cars I wouldn't have bothered. There must be around $200 worth of my own labor involed with each one?
Just for spite I am going to refuse to pay myself for my time. So, HO, HO, HO, Merry Christmas to me! ;)
Quote from: Steve Meltzer on December 19, 2023, 09:46:17 AM
Lincoln Tech ...thanks again for the link to the video, which was most useful. I took the horn off the steering column, but did not really need to remove the steering wheel per se. Sanded and cleaned up the contacts and everything seems to work great now. Looking for one of the two screws that hold the trim piece in the center and I will be completely done. (No, I didn't lose it. It was not there when I removed the centerpiece!) Thanks again, Steve.
the original screws are a special extra course thread if that helps identification from a pile of screws.
I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 19, 2023, 01:14:30 PM
I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.
It is a good conclusion esspecially if you have rebuilt, repaired or tried too on an existing set.
I do think that it is essentially an age issue with the working components contained in the horns?
As such EVEN IF you were actually able to find a working original set now, I suspect that they will not stay working for very much longer?
So really it comes down to how original do want you car to be and how dedicated are you to get it there? It is still easy to say but getting more difficult daily.
It isn't a bad idea to know how to service the horns. I think there are many things that do not make sense financially to do but it IS satisfying to have "restored" these things. How superficial that is depends on the person in charge making those decisions. No one ever claimed that this stuff made any sense to pursue?
My post was intended to bring light to the realities of rebuilding horns vs. alternatives so that a newer enthusiast or others not familiar (don't like the term newbie much) knows what they are getting into so that they can make a informed decision on what is best for them.
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 19, 2023, 02:07:11 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 19, 2023, 01:14:30 PM
I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.
It is a good conclusion esspecially if you have rebuilt, repaired or tried too on an existing set.
I do think that it is essentially an age issue with the working components contained in the horns?
As such EVEN IF you were actually able to find a working original set now, I suspect that they will not stay working for very much longer?
So really it comes down to how original do want you car to be and how dedicated are you to get it there? It is still easy to say but getting more difficult daily.
It isn't a bad idea to know how to service the horns. I think there are many things that do not make sense financially to do but it IS satisfying to have "restored" these things. How superficial that is depends on the person in charge making those decisions. No one ever claimed that this stuff made any sense to pursue?
Well lets see, on my Vert my horns have worked ever since I bought the car in 1985. They survived me blasting and repainting them more than once. I use my "used to be" NOS steering wheel that I installed a new rimblow switch in it over 20 years ago to power them and they still work great. I have before gotten horns to work by playing with the screw on the side. I also have bare metal to metal contact with my horns to my core support. So I don't think after 54 years my horns will quit working soon and if they do then it's your fault! ;)
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 20, 2023, 06:52:31 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 19, 2023, 02:07:11 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 19, 2023, 01:14:30 PM
I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.
It is a good conclusion esspecially if you have rebuilt, repaired or tried too on an existing set.
I do think that it is essentially an age issue with the working components contained in the horns?
As such EVEN IF you were actually able to find a working original set now, I suspect that they will not stay working for very much longer?
So really it comes down to how original do want you car to be and how dedicated are you to get it there? It is still easy to say but getting more difficult daily.
It isn't a bad idea to know how to service the horns. I think there are many things that do not make sense financially to do but it IS satisfying to have "restored" these things. How superficial that is depends on the person in charge making those decisions. No one ever claimed that this stuff made any sense to pursue?
Well lets see, on my Vert my horns have worked ever since I bought the car in 1985. They survived me blasting and repainting them more than once. I use my "used to be" NOS steering wheel that I installed a new rimblow switch in it over 20 years ago to power them and they still work great. I have before gotten horns to work by playing with the screw on the side. I also have bare metal to metal contact with my horns to my core support. So I don't think after 54 years my horns will quit working soon and if they do then it's your fault! ;)
It will be nice for you if you are correct. There is no big money involved so I don't think "Vegas" will write book on it?
Granted I have only seen a very small sample recently of my four. What I observed is that all four showed internal symptoms of various levels of corrosion that was affecting the operation.
Those conditions could ONLY be corrected by opening the horns and cleaning them.
To my knowledge, there has never been a published study done by a major investigative corporation like Rand that will positively determine the best course of action on maintenance, repair or service of 1965- 1970 Ford or Corvette horns.
I of course may be mistaken since I so often am. I, just like Mr.Gaines are sharing my experiences with the group with the thoughts that it is for the greater good.
This is of course all up to the individual to decide the best course of action or if need be to come here and just yell "Tripe". It's whatever you want to do about it here Dude. ;)
Doug, I'm just messing around on the comment as I'm lucky my horns still work. I think while I live in an environment of corrosion(Mich in the midwest) my horns have not quit working. Maybe my car cover has helped. Like I said I got a lot of horns sitting around I have not tried yet and the ones on my New Jersey Mach1 don't work but have not even tried to check out(a button on the lower instrument panel for the horns) if it is at the horns or the button that is the problem.
Well there is a position taken here by some that I have often observed. It defends the perspective that an argument is not an argument. Then continues on for pages and pages and pages for no apparent reasons?
I'm not pointing fingers at anyone in particular here, but I have privately noted who is highly likely to be in the middle of it, seemingly stirring the pot for no apparent reason other then to amuse themselves? Some of those characteristics are described as belonging to a Troll?
Secret observation is likely just another quirk of mine I suppose? Few care what I think so I don't often mention this.