1967 Shelby G.T. 350 4 speed starter motor

[Matt- Fred 07 Shelby]

Hi All

Does anyone have an original rebuilt, restored or just a good working starter motor they would sell?
Mine just Quit...

Thanks
Matt

[Harris Speedster]

what is the part number on your starter?

[Shawn]

I may have one do we know the stamping that should be on it?

[Matt- Fred 07 Shelby]

Thanks for all the replies guys.
I located a few

Thanks
Matt

[SCJSTU]

curious as to orig numbers on the starter as mine is the usual aftermarket

[Bill Collins]

Ford typically identified its starters with a paint stamped engineering number rather than a stamping. This number is often now illegible or has been removed in the course of a previous rebuild by a remanufacturer.

If your starter is the original, you may want to consider repairing it. What is the symptom? If it clicks and makes a whirring noise but does not engage, the problem is likely the drive.

This component is inexpensive and easily replaced. Use only a genuine Ford/Motorcraft unit! The correct one for a 1967 289 is Ford p/n C6VY11350A or Motorcraft sales number SD175. There is one available here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/358342741701

If this is not the problem, I would next try to find a specialty automotive electrical repair shop and have it fixed.

Try to avoid buying a replacement - this path is fraught with potential problems. Most starters now being offered, even by national auto parts chains, are generic applications with offshore build quality. Plus, their application listings often do not consider the difference in nose cone depth between a manual or automatic transmission. I have been told of buyers returning units two or three times as "the computer says it is the correct one" but it does not fit. 

[SCJSTU]

any difference in a starter for a HiPo 289 vs a base 289 engine?

[J_Speegle]

I may have one do we know the stamping that should be on it?

As Bill mentioned, the starters for a small block would have had a ink/paint stamp with date originally. That's a good thing for those looking for cores since you can eliminate those with a physical stamp in the metal, opening up a greater number of years for at least the main case. Ink/paint stamped examples for small blocks were used into the 68 production year at San Jose.

any difference in a starter for a HiPo 289 vs a base 289 engine?

No Only auto verses manual

[Bill Collins]

No difference except for 3/8" or 5/8" nose cone offset to the flywheel between automatic and manual transmissions.

Most automatics and cars use the shallower 3/8" offset to the starter ring on the flywheel. Most trucks use the 5/8" offset, specifically with manual transmissions.

Best practice is to observe the engineering number cast into the existing nose cone; the starter must be removed to see it. If the number on the replacement is different, the cone from the original starter can be transferred, as they are interchangable. Check this before turning in your existing starter as a core!

[Bob Gaines]

Years ago I thought there was a difference between all 65-70 289 /302 Mustang/Shelby manual and automatic starters but found out that it is not so.  The 65-67 289 Mustang /Shelby starter used the same nose cone regardless of if it was manual or automatic. In 1968 with the change from a 157 tooth to a 164 tooth flywheel did the nose cone change and there was one style nose cone for auto and a different one for manual.

[Shawn]

Here is what I have not sure if correct for 67 Shelby GT350. 

[J_Speegle]

Here is what I have not sure if correct for 67 Shelby GT350. 

Depends on how "correct" you want to be and what level you have chosen for the whole car/restoration. If you choose you could always make those stampings "disappear" so that it looks more correct. As mentioned there should be no stamping in the metal and if you get down to when the part was made it appears that it was for or made during (service part) during 1969 production.

[Bob Gaines]

Here is what I have not sure if correct for 67 Shelby GT350. 

Depends on how "correct" you want to be and what level you have chosen for the whole car/restoration. If you choose you could always make those stampings "disappear" so that it looks more correct. As mentioned there should be no stamping in the metal and if you get down to when the part was made it appears that it was for or made during (service part) during 1969 production.

Along with what Jeff pointed out, that style of nose cone has extra ribs showing around the outside perimeter indicating it is a 1971 and later style. The ribs on the interior side of the nose cone are part of the evolution of the design that added extra strength but can't be seen once mounted unlike the surface ribs on the outside perimeter. If it has ribs on the inside it will have the identifying ones on the outside too. That identifier is not good for a concours . A least for a concours type restoration on a 1970 and earlier Mustang/Shelby.

[Shawn]

I recall Jim Cowles doing a starter for me years ago with the ink stamp.  Wasnt sure on the physical stamping of this part or application.  Bob - you are correct the nose cone is marked D3

[TA Coupe]

I zoomed in and enhanced a couple of the pictures, and you can see that the body is a sixty seven part number so maybe someone just changed the nose cone on it. If you change the nose cone, then it may be correct for the application.

     Roy