Cobra Oil Pan bolt Torque Specs and Tightening Sequence

[SHELB66]

Does anyone have a reference that shows the Cobra Oil pan bolt torque specs & tightening sequence?  My '66 is in the shop and I want to be able to provide this info if necessary.  Being proactive sometimes has its advantages.  Thanks much!

Craig R.

[Road Reptile]

Hi Craig,
Do you know if the shop is installing cork gaskets?
If so the Ford spec from the shop manual should apply, as should the sequence. Big stress on all parts being CLEAN. I like to use a 1/4" drive swivel so all bolts can be reached easily, a speed handle is nice to snug things followed by the torque wrench.
Hopefully you have a shop manual.
R.R.

[SHELB66]

Thanks, my friend!  I gave them the option with respect to gaskets.  They let me provide the parts so I included a cork and a rubber gasket.  They're repairing my stripped oil pan drain plug hole, replacing rear main seal if necessary, and swapping out the incorrect A-servo trans for a correct C-servo trans that I actually procured about 15 years ago.  It actually came out of another Hertz Shelby which was a pleasant surprise.  When I bought it the trans and torque converter had been completely rebuilt.  I also provided the shop with the factory shop manual just in case.

Craig R.`

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks, my friend!  I gave them the option with respect to gaskets.  They let me provide the parts so I included a cork and a rubber gasket.  They're repairing my stripped oil pan drain plug hole, replacing rear main seal if necessary, and swapping out the incorrect A-servo trans for a correct C-servo trans that I actually procured about 15 years ago.  It actually came out of another Hertz Shelby which was a pleasant surprise.  When I bought it the trans and torque converter had been completely rebuilt.  I also provided the shop with the factory shop manual just in case.

Craig R.` 

Craig, given your effort towards historic details on the things you mentioned the oil pan gasket used was cork but the top and bottom back in the day had a black sealer just like the valve cover gaskets. You can improvise by painting the top and bottom surface of the cork gasket for a similar look. It is most evident on the overhanging corners in the front sticking out from under the timing cover. Just some details expected on the concours prepared cars in case that matters to you. If not, never mind.

[SHELB66]

Thanks very much, Bob!  I always appreciate your contributions.  I value your input very much.

Craig R.

[pbf777]

    The "Torque Limits" as listen in the manual:

    7-9 ft.lbs. for 1/4" x 20t fasteners.
    9-11 ft.lbs. for 5/16" x 18t fasteners.   
   
    Note that "torque values" are generally based on the fastener and that surrounding engineering is suppose to take this into account. 
   
    Though these values are at times tempered based on the reaction of the gasketing material. 

    Generally, and particularly when paste sealers are involved, I prefer to only "snug" the fasteners on the initial mating, following up the next day with the final "torquing". 

    Oh, and "cork" gasketing compresses significantly so a periodic "retorquing" is often required, that until the gasket "takes a set", in order to resist (excessive) seepage at a later date. 

    Scott.