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Horn Issues

Started by cboss70, April 05, 2024, 08:15:37 AM

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cboss70

I have a 66 and it came with some parts loose/off the car including the horns. I tested the horns and put them on and installed a new engine compartment harness.  I took the steering wheel off and if I put a jumper lead from one horn stud on the turn switch to the other and the horn will go off. I thought I was good to go but when I put the wheel back on no horn. I then tried a standard mustang wheel and still no horn. Not sure what to check now- any ideas?

J_Speegle

First step - do you have power to one of the posts/brushes behind the wheel?

second - what happens (horns work) when you, for a second, apply power to the other post/brush?
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and Judge

BDT 739

If all is good with Jeffs replay #1. I would check the continuity of both steering wheels. From the slip ring to the terminals of the horn with the wheel removed.

Road Reptile

Hi,
A horn circuit is fairly simple and I think most of your testing proves the fault will be in the steering wheel. You need clean brush contacts-clean and lubed slip rings and a good connection between the horn button and slip rings. If you dont have an ohm meter
you should get one. Use the meter to prove continuity through the wheel to the slip rings. Remember a horn is a high amp circuit,
as with any electrical component needs clean soild connections to operate.
Hope this helps.
R.R.

cboss70

Thanks for the feedback. I was able to confirm over the weekend that I did have power to one of the posts and when I put a jumper between the two the horn goes off. I took apart the parts in the wheel and cleaned it up but still no go. I will have to figure out how to test the slip ring continuity. I see they sell rebuild kits so I may order one just in case but based on the feedback and what I'm seeing so far it does in fact seem like a wheel issue. Thanks as always for the insight. 

Royce Peterson

I have had several of the reproduction steering wheels that had to be assembled properly to fix the horn not blowing. Two of them were shorted to ground which made the circuit breaker in the headlamp switch blow repeatedly until it burned out. One was open which was a little harder to troubleshoot but the hardware turned out to be the problem with that one too.
1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock