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Intake vacuum fittings

Started by jswoody, January 31, 2019, 09:50:06 AM

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Wedgeman


Jim Herrud

+1 Thx Doug!

I think I've got a handle on the PCV side of the system, but still a little fuzzy on the breather side. I want to keep my '65 restomod engine bay clean (as much as feasible). If I understand correctly, under acceleration, the blow-by gasses pressurize the crankcase. Some of those gasses go through the PCV, but the breather side is now pressurized as well and some of the air/oil fumes come out there. Would it make sense to make this a closed system, add a small air/oil separator to this line and run it to the air cleaner?
Shelby Buff.
I used to be a "Vintage Car" guy. Now I'm just a "Vintage" car guy.
"There's never enough horsepower - Just not enough traction." - C.S.
Straight Roads are for Fast Cars. Turns are for Fast Drivers.

shelbydoug

#32
Quote from: Jim Herrud on February 05, 2019, 10:59:22 PM
+1 Thx Doug!

I think I've got a handle on the PCV side of the system, but still a little fuzzy on the breather side. I want to keep my '65 restomod engine bay clean (as much as feasible). If I understand correctly, under acceleration, the blow-by gasses pressurize the crankcase. Some of those gasses go through the PCV, but the breather side is now pressurized as well and some of the air/oil fumes come out there. Would it make sense to make this a closed system, add a small air/oil separator to this line and run it to the air cleaner?

I posted a pic of EarlJ's "catch can". I'm sure that when he checks in, he will offer to post better pictures of how he plumbed that. That's an open system running 48ida's.

It can work either open or closed. I prefer the closed version. It isn't always simple to come to a solution that has longevity to it. I've revised mine many times and certainly/ probably that will always continue. What seemed like a good idea last week then shows it's issues in use and needs to get revised, etc.

It's just something to consider and certainly I'm as guilty as anyone as getting stuck in the solution of the '60s that never worked right in the beginning either. The factory configuration of the 67 GT500 is a good example of that. It's really easy to make a car into a restomod. They are very delicate in that sense.

There are lots of Weber set ups being run these days and they aren't that simple to plumb into a pcv closed system and not affect the jetting.



I'm convinced that a pcv is the best solution. You need to find your best solution. There are going to be other issues in building the system. For one, you need to find a PCV valve that actually closes at idle. None do. Some just are closer to closed then others.

The M/E Wagner is the best I can find. It has quite a range of adjustment but even it doesn't close completely. As near as I can determine, it only looses about 2 inches at idle were the best of the standard valves were more like four and more inches at idle. For a Weber system, that's a kiss of death. Idling at 8 inches is ridiculous.

As a matter of fact, that may be the critical factor considering what cam, what induction and power or manual brakes set up that you have. You can easily loose 4 inches at idle because of the valve. The best I could find only looses me about 2. Right there, I think that is why some just go to an open system. It's just MUCH simpler then a closed one. The pcv just complicates everything a bunch that some think isn't worth the effort?

In the case of my Pantera the simplest solution was just to go to a vacuum pump for the brakes and a pcv for the engine ventilation.
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

67GT500#1594

What version of PVC routing would be correct for #1594? I'm more partial to the intake fitting than the air cleaner set up because, well I don't have the "original" air cleaner. I'd like to get the right set up, witch ever one that might be? Thanks!! Matt

Bob Gaines

For GT500's it depends. Are you pleasure driving your car a lot or not driving much but want a original look? PCV with a hose connected to the elbow on the front of the air cleaner base was the way it was typically run from the factory. Running the pcv hose to one of the forward vacuum plugs on the intake using the small block pcv brass nipple is the suggested way for when doing a lot of pleasure driving . That modified pcv routing is not factory but works better. With this information you can decide which makes the most sense to do for your situation. 
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

67GT500#1594

Thanks Bob!! Great info as always. Well, I'm doing things a little different but striving to find the "right parts" as always. I've found most of the really hard parts for my original engine except the correct air cleaner. I know where a few are but none are obtainable.

Seems also to be the subject of raw aluminum vs. black crinkle finishes? I've seen both but in 67 you just never know with production issues and such.

Regards,
Matt

Bob Gaines

Quote from: 67GT500#1594 on July 06, 2019, 09:06:30 PM
Thanks Bob!! Great info as always. Well, I'm doing things a little different but striving to find the "right parts" as always. I've found most of the really hard parts for my original engine except the correct air cleaner. I know where a few are but none are obtainable.

Seems also to be the subject of raw aluminum vs. black crinkle finishes? I've seen both but in 67 you just never know with production issues and such.

Regards,
Matt
Matt, very early GT500's had the bare aluminum sand cast lids. Then there was a transition to the wrinkle finish sand cast lid . FYI the sand cast lids were typically paired with the sand cast base The last style was the diecast lid which was wrinkle finish from the beginning of it's introduction to the end of 67 production. Your 1594 car was quite a few hundreds of cars past the transition to the diecast lids /bases IMO. To be clear your car should have a diecast wrinkle finish lid and die cast base. All of the diecast 2X4 bases had the reinforcing ribs and the S7MS engineering number.BTW you know someone who has both diecast and the sandcast air cleaners extra on the shelf just waiting to be put into service ;)
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

shelbydoug

#37
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 06, 2019, 09:33:37 PM
Quote from: 67GT500#1594 on July 06, 2019, 09:06:30 PM
Thanks Bob!! Great info as always. Well, I'm doing things a little different but striving to find the "right parts" as always. I've found most of the really hard parts for my original engine except the correct air cleaner. I know where a few are but none are obtainable.

Seems also to be the subject of raw aluminum vs. black crinkle finishes? I've seen both but in 67 you just never know with production issues and such.

Regards,
Matt
Matt, very early GT500's had the bare aluminum sand cast lids. Then there was a transition to the wrinkle finish sand cast lid . FYI the sand cast lids were typically paired with the sand cast base The last style was the diecast lid which was wrinkle finish from the beginning of it's introduction to the end of 67 production. Your 1594 car was quite a few hundreds of cars past the transition to the diecast lids /bases IMO. To be clear your car should have a diecast wrinkle finish lid and die cast base. All of the diecast 2X4 bases had the reinforcing ribs and the S7MS engineering number.BTW you know someone who has both diecast and the sandcast air cleaners extra on the shelf just waiting to be put into service ;) .

I'm wondering if I know them also? Maybe they'd sell me a base? :o
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

67GT500#1594

PM sent Mr. Gaines. Thanks!!