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Adjusting the valves on my GT350 302 Engine

Started by Corey Bowcutt, September 21, 2021, 03:11:45 PM

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Corey Bowcutt

I know most of you guys have been doing this for 50 years and can do it blindfolded but I have never done it.  I have a tapping sound coming from my engine so I need to adjust the valves.  I googled it and see there is a procedure for doing it with the engine running and one with it not.  I personally would have never guessed you would do it with the engine running?

Is there a preferred method to use?

Thank you,

Corey

CharlesTurner

The way I always do it is:

Turning the crank bolt for each cylinder: When the exhaust rocker starts down, set the intake.  When the intake rocker goes all the way down and start back up, set the exhaust.  To set a rocker, spin the pushrod with your fingers until you feel resistance while tightening the nut, then it's a 3/4 or full turn from there, I don't recall which.  Obviously easier to do with plugs out.

The shop manual has the procedure also.

I'm sure there are other ways.  An old school guy told me this way many years ago and I've just stuck with it, never have any issues.
Charles Turner
MCA/SAAC Judge

67 GT350

I use a feeler gauge. But the same procedure mentioned above.
RARE  Signature Delete

Royce Peterson

I always do it with the engine not running in one of the ways mentioned. Then, afterwards, I adjust them again with the engine running.

I have a set of Snap On rocker arm clips that plug the hole on each rocker arm so oil does not squirt everywhere. A valve cover with the top cut out makes it relatively clean. You don't want to run the engine with both rocker covers removed - huge mess.

With the engine running you back off each rocker until it makes noise. Then turn it exactly 1/2 turn tighter.
1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock

98SVT - was 06GT

You're getting 2 different methods here. Hydraulic or solid lifter method. Which do you have?
Previous owner 6S843 - GT350H & 68 GT500 Convert #135.
Mine: GT1 Mustang, 1998 SVT 32V, 1929 Model A Coupe, Wife's: 2004 Tbird
Member since 1975 - priceless

CharlesTurner

Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on September 21, 2021, 09:12:35 PM
You're getting 2 different methods here. Hydraulic or solid lifter method. Which do you have?

A '68 302 is hydraulic lifter originally.
Charles Turner
MCA/SAAC Judge

98SVT - was 06GT

Quote from: CharlesTurner on September 21, 2021, 09:14:52 PM
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on September 21, 2021, 09:12:35 PM
You're getting 2 different methods here. Hydraulic or solid lifter method. Which do you have?

A '68 302 is hydraulic lifter originally.
Realize that but may have been changed in the last 53 years which 67350 assumed when he whipped out his feeler gauges.
Here the basic method if you want to take the ASE Certification test: https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/hydraulic-lifter-preload.html
Previous owner 6S843 - GT350H & 68 GT500 Convert #135.
Mine: GT1 Mustang, 1998 SVT 32V, 1929 Model A Coupe, Wife's: 2004 Tbird
Member since 1975 - priceless

Corey Bowcutt

Thank you guys.  I do have a stock hydraulic lifter setup. 

Corey

427heaven

Royce knows... Simple procedure just dont rev it up too much with valve cover off!

427heaven

Corey to keep the mess down I cut a piece of cardbord to fit inside the cylinder head and to lean against the shock tower creating a sort of funnel. Cheap fast and easy.

Royce Peterson

1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock