Messages

For exhaust you need H-pipe, resonator pipes, date coded muffler, tailpipes and Shelby tips.  Clamps and hangers.

Tailpipes are probably the easiest.  Like Ed said, he has them.  Clamps and hangers not too tough if you can deal with used original with some pitting.

H-pipe next easiest.

Rest is going to be pretty hard to find at any price.  Last original assembly line muffler I saw sell with production date (not service) was $2K I think.

Later service NOS parts are often not like assembly line parts. 

Scott Fuller

I thoroughly enjoyed both programs.  I know all of those characters and all are genuine car guys.  I had lunch with Jason and Craig a couple of times in Burbank when they were out doing research on the cars.  All Craig talked about was cars, cars, cars.  A genuine car guy.  I am proud to have supplied a couple of parts for both cars.  I know I made a few small things for the fuel injection, but forget what they were.  And I remember meeting Jason in LA when the car was first discovered when only a couple of people knew.  Amazing discovery.

Congratulation to the entire team that brought these cars back.

Scott 

That is the coolest thing I've seen in a long time.

Scott

The general rule on changeover from the early tip style to the late tip style is car #1600.  I think I got that rule-of-thumb from Bob Gaines.

I have the original exhaust off of car 1637 and it has the early style tips on it with a 12/66 dated muffler and build date of 3/23/1967.

Ford GT - Check your car number, but based on the build date I would expect that it had the early style tips when new.

Scott

The two piece version had an S7MS number on them. The one piece versions did not and are more generic in that regard. If you have some you're trying to identify and posted pictures I could probably tell you if they are original or not. Scott

evantugby,

Why not buy the Doug Thorley's at around $800 per set then?

You seem focused on evaluating the cost of mine and where my price point should be. 

My pricing is based on what it costs me to make them.  The NRE costs, packaging costs, and production costs.  I don't track what other headers cost or evaluate mine against what else might be available.  I evaluate mine against known original assembly line parts only.  I know there are cheaper options.  I looked some up for you and made a couple of suggestions to you. 

Scott

Scott, do you make Tri-Y's that fit a '67 GT350 with power steering?

I don't know if mine will fit a 67 GT350 with power steering, never tried them on that application.  Just 65/66 Shelby GT-350.

  So, fit them on the car before you send then out for any coatings.

Good advice, however if the tri-y headers are made correctly you don't need to flatten any pipes.

Scott

I think you are talking about the H-pipe outlets?

They are 6-inches apart, center-to-center.

Scott

I looked into having them reproduced a while ago and once they saw the sample they weren't interested.  Wouldn't even give me a quote.

Scott

Barely over 1-year ago we had a 7.1 earthquake in Ridgecrest where I live.  That's 100 times stronger than the one you just had.  We've had literally 1000's of earthquakes since the 7.1 and 100's above 4.0. 

I have learned to hate them and can now feel them coming by the way the ground starts to vibrate and the sound.  You usually hear them before you feel them.

Scott

I have seen a number of the floor pan plugs plated Olive Drab Zinc.  Most were Zinc Dichromate.  But just to be clear, they aren't painted.  They are plated.

Scott

Never seen an original without a date on the back cover.  So, no, not original.

Scott

I know I have some.  And some if not all are mounted on wheels.  But you don't need the wheel?

Scott

Carb is correct for automatic not 4-speed.  Should be an AA not AB.

Scott