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30th Annual Snakes on the Mountain-June 20th 2026
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ERA-2080
Factory turn key built in 2002 by ERA
Titled as a 1964
Frost pearl w/maroon stripe to duplicate CSX 2173
All options, including Heater/defroster, wipers, convertible top W/side curtains, Leather seats on sliders, 4 point seat belts, full carpet set, Wind-wings, Sun visors, AC pedals, proper FIA-6 pin knock off wheels with fresh Cooper Cobras, 235/60/15 fronts, 295/50/15 rear, ERA competition rear W/outboard brakes , ERA competition front brakes (12.3 rotors), a $7,500 option from ERA, Front & rear sway bars, coil over shocks, Tremec TKO 5spd w/ hydraulic clutch, Lakewood blowproof bellhousing, ERA spec HD aluminum radiator & overflow tank, Oil cooler, Front bumperettes, Full rear bumper, Per documents in build binder-351W stroked to 396ci, 9:8:1 comp, canton 8 quart oil pan, est. 425hp Car cover, All docs back to original order from ERA, Fully sorted, needs nothing, $72,500 located in Greenville, SC.
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Drove my May of 1969 built, 1970 GT 350 today and a block from home the pedal got hard, not quite to floor, but barely able to slow to a stop. Thinking perhaps I might have inadvertently cooked the brakes driving through construction, let the car cool for for three hours and just went out to take a look. Fluids all flushed with fresh DOT 3 2 years ago, master cylinder is full, rear bowl is a bit murky, front is fairly clear, no drips, no leaks either under the car or at all four corners. It's been 20 years since I last had a brake issue on any of my mustangs, now wondering if the master cylinder went out or if the booster did. Feels like no rear brakes at all, with a good bit of pressure needed just to stop the car from rolling, no vacuum leaks detected.

Believing earlier that the master cylinder went out, I proactively ordered a new one from Dead Nuts this afternoon, but what happens if it's the booster?
Being a May of 69 build, it can't be a Midland, can it?
Who is rebuilding or offering a good reproduction of the later production brake boosters these days?

Anyone have any pictures of an original CSX2000 260/289 roadster with sunburst wheels installed?

Trying to get a handle on the look and fit of them.

Thanks in advance,


Bill

Surprised nobody is talking about CSX3272 on BAT
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-shelby-cobra-14/

Do you think the documented history is a blessing or a curse?
What about the color change from Silver to what looks like, to me at least, to be Toreador Red?
Looks like a nice weekend toy for someone with deep pockets.

Your thoughts?

Finally, what do you think the last 2 minutes of the auction will be like?


Bill

What is the best replacement headlight switch for the 69/70 Shelby on the market today?
Tried a standard (per the advice of a "Shelby expert" I now used to hold in high regard), but the ride home from a movie shoot this evening and the switch overheated after 20 minutes and non LED or Halogen headlights......Flashed on and off like I was undercover and trying to pull someone over     

Assuming a C9ZZ-11654-A (or B) switch would be correct ? ? ?

Anyone make an excellent reproduction that actually works?

Thanks in advance

Bill

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Ran across a set of hood escutcheon plate plates and a T-handle supposedly for same. Was told they were used on very early CSX2000 series cars. Uncertain if that statement is factual or not, same goes for the parts and tool attached in the pictures below. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
Escutcheon plate is roughly 1" x 1"
T-handle tool is 2.25" (a hair bigger than measured) wide by 3.25" long
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Thanks in advance

Bill

NO memes, no pictures, those just belittle in my mind, here, for me at least, just words, they won't make it better, but they will allow me to not keep it balled up inside as tears were shed this morning, as I have every 9/11 since that tragic day:

Watching an abbreviated timeline on TV this early morning, it all comes flooding back, where I was, what I was doing, getting the call of our young child's school being evacuated (overlooked RT80 and next to Picatinny Arsenal). Reaching out to family and friends to make sure they were not in the towers, the anxiety of not being able to reach some of them......The hours going by, the smoke rising up in the distance, the relief as we heard from those we could not get a hold of earlier in the day. Not sleeping for days, running food/water to donation centers across the river from NYC, riveted to the TV 24x7, frustration for not being able to do more, angry for the tragic loss. Again, watching the smoke plumes from our backyard would not let us go, just kept pulling us in, as it has again this morning. Within that tragedy we lost past co-workers (my wife has just left Marsh McClennan, who lost hundreds in the towers, many she knew), neighbors, our kids friends parents.......I remember just now the agony of trying to figure out how I was going to explain to our child that some of his friends parents will never be coming home.


We shall never forget, we will always grieve, we will survive and take our continued retribution from those who planned and executed this horrific event in our modern history.

Was at a wedding in NJ this weekend and had a friend of the family come up and ask me about whether or not the later Shelby products were offered with an automatic transmission. Won't go in to specific details why do to privacy concerns, other than they cannot drive a manual transmission due to physical limitations. If not, are there any companies out there that offer a conversion from manual to automatic?


Thanks in advance


Bill

For years now I've been contemplating replacing the incorrect white convertible top on 2642 with a proper black convertible top. Up until now I've had the mindset if it's not broken, do not mess with it. Well, after playing musical cars yesterday, I've discovered that the rear glass seal has finally let go.

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So now the new dilemma is, can this be properly repaired, or, what will be the best replacement top supplier be?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.


Bill

Ran across this one earlier this week, hope you enjoy it.

Bill

Repost in the public access section:

NEWBIE's

1: You cannot include attachments or links within your posts without them being approved by a moderator. This could be minutes, or days, depending on how busy a moderator is with his/her normal day to day schedule (we are not paid, we volunteer). The reason for this is to keep spammers from flooding these sites with commercial type posts for shoes, porn, or get rich quick schemes.

2: Sending multiple PM's asking when a post might be approved does not get the post approved any faster.

3: As a newbie, you sometimes forget to look at the date of the last post in a thread you are interested in. Dates are located above a user name and are in the following format "05-30-2015, 09:04 AM" You click on the reply/respond button and inadvertently resurrect threads that are 5-15 years old. Most with outdated information, or asking for information from a specific end user, who may no longer be on the site, or in a worst case scenario, has passed away.

4: As a newbie, you fail to use the "search" function, thus asking a question that has mostly likely been answered between 1-100+ times. This simple forum tool is beneficial for any and all end users, newbies especially.

5: As a newbie, you should think before you post. You only get one chance to make a first impression, and first impressions on a specialty automotive forum are forever lasting.

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7: When responding to a thread, it is always suggested you use the "quote" option (bottom right hand corner of each post), so all end users know who you are directing your response towards.

8: Be patient for a response, do not make a follow up post 10,20,30,60 minutes after you asked a question at 3am. Not everyone who knows the answer is up or on their computer when you are.

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10: Go with the flow, do not try to reinvent the wheel here. Take things slowly, and ease yourself in to the flow of traffic.

Yes, the above really is that simple.

Cleaning out some moving boxes from several moved ago and stumbled across a set of center caps I cannot identify. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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Thanks in advance,

Bill

Originally posted by my friend Brent M. on 12-21-2003

"We must respect each other around here, and many are simply sick of the bickering ..Its BS. People should be able to ask legitimate questions around here without turning into a friggin circus.

What this is doing is taking new folks who have questions that need to be answered and alienating them, as the most sincere intentions some how turn in to a steaming pile of crap, and they are left wondering what they did wrong. STOP! THINK! Then post something that is useful to the group without pushing someone's buttons.

RESPECT, RESPECT, RESPECT, RESPECT. Live it every day here, please. While there are some folks who probably don't care for each other much, we are generally a tight nit group....So many great folks, and we don't need to be pissing in each others cheerios while on line. If you can't find a way to communicate in a respectful manner, keep it to yourself.

Having said that, I know many of us are close enough that we can spar a bit in fun, but you must keep in mind that things are easily taken out of context when written, so be sure you have the relationship you think you do before making jabs at your buddies. Just common sense stuff that seems to elude us lately.

I hope you understand the concern here and do everything you can personally to make this place better every day. This is still the greatest group of people in the world, but we are a huge bunch now, and we need to be mindful of the things that have made this place a success and have won each of us so many friendships over the years.

Thanks for your attention to this, and take care."

This is a thread to track known salvaged, totaled, or lost (IE: stolen)  1969/1970 Shelbys, they could be, salvaged and rebuilt, totaled and rebuilt, or stolen, potentially built again as "air" cars that could be floating around.

Please keep the discussion in this thread about specific cars that are known to SAAC, and the SAAC forum:

We can start with the most recent that I know of, self reported by the owner at that time: 9F03R480135-lost to an unknown fuel, or electrical fire some time in late 2022 or early 2023.

Once again, please only post those that are documented, either from online salvage auctions, insurance databases, or other verified sources so as to not have people playing games for some nefarious reason.

Thanks in advance for getting the ball rolling on this.

Bill

You never know what might end up at the local Cars & Coffee.

Sounded quite healthy when loaded back on it's trailer at the end of the show.
Current owner is here on the forum.

Bill

Having a discussion with long term (some of us dating back to the UUNET and newsgroup days), really good "IT" friends LAST night, the question of online forums, their user base, the trouble with moderating them, and the quest for high post counts by various members came up. These are people with 20+ years of forum moderation under their belts. Our conclusion on post counts was a simple one, those forums that eliminated the actual post counts from their members profiles, seemed to have less conflicts, and less off topic posts that needed to be moderated.

So the question I now pose is as follows:

Should we remove members post counts from the forum?

I'll leave it to the members of the forum to respond with a yes or no, and perhaps, if they would like to share, the reason for their answer.

Thanks for keeping this on topic, and civil.


Bill

In search of 1969/70 Luke Bolton Ford (Plantation, Fl) memorabilia


Serious responses only please.

Bill

In search of 1969/70 Matthews Ford (West Palm Beach, Fl) memorabilia


Serious responses only please.

Bill