Messages

Progress so far

Looks like you've made it a fair amount depending on what you started out with. But the goal is insight. Corners and such use a soft brush if you have to - using these methods you'll likely lose about 20% of the original overspray paint so just understand that is what you give up to get it clean.

Wax and grease remover available at most auto body supply shops will be a little less aggressive

+1 Used in a well ventilated area with gloves and eye protection at least

For myself they have been great to work with and typically go the extra mile in trying to get what you need. Have found the fair and upfront in all our exchanges.

It's also suggested that you shot or apply the Charcoal "dry" (couple of thin dry coats for coverage) any attempt to lay down a nice wet coat typically results in a glossier finish and along with filling in the grain with the paint.

Who said the 69 shelby market was soft haha now we got a good comp!!!!!

Not sure if you've ever owned or built a car on the same level as the one in the auction being discussed

Just another note or addition to all the information above offered on the subject if your doing a restored car like the cars were originally built.

Remember that the painted areas of the unibody (dash, A pillars and door in general) were painted before the exterior color was applied.

Dash was not painted charcoal all the way to the windshield opening but stopped (faded away) near the top of the face. Areas around the defroster vents were blacked out with black paint by hand





Door to exterior color transition did not follow the weatherstrip all the way around the edges of the door at the ends and bottom but moved inward at the bottom and because of lack of effort (bending over or just making the effort) often the paint there (exterior and or interior paint) can be very thin. So in the pictures below the interior paint was masked off with a precut mask allowing body color to over the other surfaces




And if you love details, even in areas where no one else will never likely be see, the inner part of the inner door surface was not masked off like the surrounding area and left that area to get a lot or a little exterior paint over that area as shown in the pictures below

Just to help illustrate





Related past thread on the subject

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=10282.msg86723#msg86723

Great job by the restorer to come up with all the detailing marks

There are only a few of the maybe 50+ that were originally typically applied that were placed on the car so of them came with the restored parts they purchase I would guess while the others may have been borrowed from pictures on the internet. Looks like possibly one set were borrowed from a non-Shelby. But they never IMO make up for short comings elsewhere

Like detailed production marks 

Some borrowed from other non-Shelbys    but at least the drive line stripes are sort of correct for application. Other observers PLEASE don't copy the markings or how they were applied from this example

And as noticed, plenty of other details, finishes and choices appear to have been over looked. though their lack or incorrectness will likely be not known or ignored by the typical BATBidder

Added a picture to share from an unrestored 66

Original mirror there based on the "part number on the base

What is available it a bit different IMO from the originals - not a surprise in many cases. There was apparently a difference between suppliers or what was provided by the same supplier for San Jose. Did not find that there were differences between production periods but these differences remained fairly consistent through the whole production year. Different was the tip since we find pointed sharp tips. (not the best idea), those with a flattened tip and those where the threads do not start from the tip of the screw end as shown in just a few of the many examples I came up with from unrestored cars. Unfortunately as good and as helpful as the Assembly Manuals can be they don't and really can't include details such as this. But its a start or place to start from if you have no other resources




As for the head they were basic Phillips as shown. In many examples the plates were sealed well once in place while others only had the strip caulking/sealant between the plate and the floor opening




Hope this helps

Thoughts and prayers go out to his wife and family in this time of need. Godspeed Phil

Couple of examples of gauges in unrestored 67's from my collection

RR Don't recall there being Paxton gauges on this car at the show.

Jeff
Yes The car did have aux. gauges. I was judging from the drives side so I could see them (2), but I can't recall the brand.

Rodney

Thanks for posting - didn't see them from my angle  and they didn't come up in the conversation