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This topic is interesting. I've have wondered about this question for some time.  My original cables from 6S299 while dirty and appearing to be aluminum, were actually copper cable crimps. Still have the evidence of my findings.  Bought replacements cable and copper crimps...still haven't installed them. 

Gary C. Bergman

I will be interested in seeing the evidence that will be compelling enough to suggest copper was also used and not a previous replacement . Even if evidence suggest that copper was a type used at SA it would be more the exception then the rule. The overwhelming majority were of the aluminum variety base on many different knowledgeable individuals observations .

Remember that nipple was made to be just long enough for the sheet metal. The aluminum is at least 1/4" thick at it's thinnest and if I remember correctly, is more then 3/8" thick at that point because of the cast in mounting boss.

Since it will not be seen from inside the air cleaner sure you can come up with a creative way to make it work (using one from a donor Mustang air cleaner)

+1 . Where there is a will there is a way. At the very least I known of people that have succeeded. The ones I have known about  added a section to the elbow (past the expanded base of elbow) enough to go through the base and crimp over on the other side. I am not sure what process was used to solder ,weld,or brazed the section because It was already doctored up. I just saw the finished product during a impromptu to show and tell at a car show. The one I saw wasn't too pretty on the filter side of the base but that is not seen when installed. I supposed you can mandrel bend a new elbow like you said (regular tube bender will look different) . Best of luck with that approach. I may be wrong but I think that process will be even harder given the equipment needed etc.  At least you have input so you can make a informed decision on how to proceed next  .

Any of you guys know which material the original crimps were made of, aluminum, copper or
bronze? I believe the reproductions are made of aluminum.
Texas Swede

They were aluminum.They are not technically reproductions. It is used on garage door cable today in the same way it was used on garage door cable over 50 years ago.

Well looks like I need to buy a bead roller and tubing bender. Should it be galvanized steel tubing?

Since I don't have one to copy, what od tubing is this thing?

I'm just enjoying the heck out of making these parts! Thanks for sharing Jeff! 

Using the picture Jeff provided as a reference I would try and salvage one from a 68 or 69 smallblock Mustang air cleaner assembly  .

I was happy with my results on faria gauges from this company. 

http://www.instrument-specialties.com/

Yes, that company will restore the gauges with the dark gray back ground like assemblyline instead of the black background of the later services parts and the repro's .

Maybe the california heat shield was different than non-california heat shields - not sure. However, this link below shows the way my 69 shelby gt350 came from the factory.  My car was initially sold in california.  The heat shield and s tube are 1 piece. 


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-351-W-FORD-MUSTANG-ENGINE-AIR-CLEANER-HEAT-SHIELD-AND-1969-70-SHELBY-GT-350/183063578315?hash=item2a9f7086cb:g:BTYAAOSwE0JY~PZk

Just to Clarify what Ed said- the shields are the same and Ed has some on ebay at a reasonable price IMO.

I should have been more clear that I'm not concerned with concours correctness, just want bulbs that won't set the wiring harness on fire! I'll check with the local auto parts stores and see what I come up with. Thanks for your input Bob, John & PR 


FYI This is John Barnes's old 'factory' Jade Green GT350 with a Boss 351, Webers and 200 MPH speedo so correctness definitely takes a back seat to performance. (Insert old peel out emoji here)

I think you might be missing the point of my post. Let me be more clear. I am trying to get across the fact that you can get your auto parts store equivalent and not feel guilty that it is not genuine Lucas . It will look concours correct from the outside and no one will be the wiser as long as it is a silver base and clear glass bulb (halogen bulb may look blue through the Fog light lens for instance ). The flutes on the glass lens does not allow you to distinguish nuance details about the bulb inside.   

My base needs the tube also. Someone must make them somewhere?

FYI the sand cast base elbow is a different shape then the the diecast base elbow pictured . The elbow is curved on the diecast base.

Unless you are concours owner, shouldn't be any difference. Even then, unlikely judge could see any error. I have one original and one replacement from local auto parts store. Can't tell you which is which. Maybe if I disassembled light.

I can't remember the last time we disassembled a foglight for concours competition  . Unless the replacement has some oddball color other then silver you should be safe. If a concours judge asks and you admit to it in DIV II then no deduction because it still looks the same . If In DIV I concours ,yes there will be a deduction. In that circumstance I would plead the fifth amendment.     If the judge can't tell then he can't tell. Maybe if it is killing you knowing that a replacement part is on your car when every other part on your car is factory original including Battery ,tires battery cables etc. I would also replace it with genuine . 

Here are pics of what I have...

What you have is a repro top and a original base that someone has taken the crimped in sheet metal elbow out of. The elbow was routed by way of hose to the PCV valve on the standard set up from the factory . The thermactor system had a short hose going to the special for thermactor oil fill tube with a check valve in between. With that said if you are going to pleasure drive your car then on the standard set up instead of running  the PCV valve hose  to the elbow , you run the PCV valve  hose to a hose fitting (brass like on GT350 PCV) fitted to the forward most plug on the C7ZX intake (of course pass side). This allows the PCV to work like it is supposed to. If you are concerned about looking the assemblyline way then run to the elbow on the air cleaner base. If not that concerned about assemblyline look and more concerned about function to run to the forward ported fitting. You choose. PS if not going to put a elbow back in and run to ported fitting then use a plug for the hole . A electrical box plug works well for this. 

The 66 and 67 R code Fairlanes shares the same air cleaner base with the 67 GT500.  There are actually 2 types, one has a closed emissions and the other is open.  If the car was bound for the West coast it had the closed emission with the elbow and the East coast did not.

The 67 GT500's all used the elbow.

+1 . Maybe 2 different on the Fairlane but not GT500.  Just one type on the GT500. Even the GT500 with thermactor. It was connected to the oil fill tube on the intake in that case using a special oil fill tube.

Please share your thoughts on this.  I'm been looking at pictures of 67's online and noticed that the color of stain seen on their wooden steering wheels seem to vary greatly.  Back when they were first new, were they a lighter or a darker wood stain?  What is considered more correct?  I know when I restored my last steering wheel, I preferred a darker stain, but I never gave much thought as to what was more correct.  What do you prefer?

My thoughts are that they varied. Over the years I have seen various shades that were unrestored . Using natural wood is the main reason for a variable shade finish IMO. The human factor which does the finishing is another.

I thought I would clarify that I think that the wheels had varying shades of wood (not all the same shade ) when new based on observations over many decades.

Please share your thoughts on this.  I'm been looking at pictures of 67's online and noticed that the color of stain seen on their wooden steering wheels seem to vary greatly.  Back when they were first new, were they a lighter or a darker wood stain?  What is considered more correct?  I know when I restored my last steering wheel, I preferred a darker stain, but I never gave much thought as to what was more correct.  What do you prefer?

My thoughts are that they varied. Over the years I have seen various shades that were unrestored . Using natural wood is the main reason for a variable shade finish IMO. The human factor which does the finishing is another.

Dumb question but is it the same as a 67?

No,different bolt pattern.

  There is a two page article in Mustang Times (MCA Feb 2018) about the shifter detent Ford put only on the 67 Mustangs that were ordered with the Competion Suspension option AND automatic transmission.
   If you have a photo of the bottom of the adjuster and the extra welded on plate it rubs, it would be appreciated.  Looking to see if there is a spring loaded ball up inside the adjuster and what the shapes of the detents are in the extra plate.  There are not many of these.  It might be easier to just make one than to wait out Ebay for 20 years.  Thanks.

  Bob G:  I think you posted in the "lost" forum:  The measurement or a side by side shape of the shifter side PRNDL detent differences.  Care to repost?  Thanks.

FYI I have never seen one for sale in all my years. Maybe one slipped by when I wasn't looking or before I knew a difference But don't ever remember coming across one or heard about anyone who had. JY was the one that brought it to my attention years ago. I don't remember a side by side comparison posted but maybe there was. JY has the only extra example I have ever seen but I don't think he ever made a pattern. I will talk to him tomorrow or the next day and find out.