Messages

I would not waste the time or money.  I have yet to see some refinished that didn't look like they were. I think you will be disappointed . I think you would be better served by using the Burton reproduced alternative. Those typically look closer to original then a refinished panel. Just my opinion others may have different.

Would you say Burton reproductions are better than reproduction panels from the late 1980's?
[/quote]The only ones I can think of from the late 80's time period was "Mr G's" and yes anything on the market today is better then those rough panels that looked like they were finished by rubbing on a concrete sidewalk back then . The Burton ones are sold with the steel backing with the bend over tabs to work in the original panels . They are better then some of the ones that came on the Ford service gauge bezels . They sell the door panels also . There are others that are nice too but I have had good luck with the Burton. For those reading whenever you buy the panels regardless of which you buy you can't get by with just buying one like a gauge bezel and not the others. You have to buy all across the dash otherwise they will not match. It is easy to distinguish the difference between a change in brush finish.  You can get by with not doing the door inserts if you don't need to because they are not next to the dash . The dash pieces on the other hand are butted up to each other and it is easy to see any difference between them.

Think this is the one I originally posted on the crashed forum, best version I have...

.      Thermactor car eh?California?

Likely but not a forgone conclusion.  Thermactor cars ended up in non mandatory states sometimes. It depended on things like color and trans and if the combination was needed to fill a dealer order somewhere else. Most cars were built by SA on speculation to fill dealer "orders".

Looking to have my aluminum pieces refinished.  Where is the best place to send them?  I do not think the old data is available.

Thanks,

Greek

I would not waste the time or money.  I have yet to see some refinished that didn't look like they were. I think you will be disappointed . I think you would be better served by using the Burton reproduced alternative. Those typically look closer to original then a refinished panel. Just my opinion others may have different.

[Gob Baines]

I sure am happy to see a few old members drop the mask of a alias name on the forum and use something closer to their given name . I hope more do that.

Agreed, but I was briefly tempted to re-register as Gob Baines, just to mess with you.

(Counting down to someone doing that in 3 ... 2 ... 1 ...)

Thanks but no thanks.

The concours guys can tell you if the casting numbers are right for your car. There was a place that would bore them out and insert a stainless sleeve in case yours is pitted. The stainless bores (calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder) are great for cars that don't see a lot of use since the moisture in the system seems to seek the low spot and corrode causing leaks. Stainless lines are also good and you can spray them zinc color so they look stock.

The picture Master is a concours correct version if your 66 car used the adapter . The master evolved to not need the adapter in later 66 production.  Stainless lines will not make much of a difference compared to regular terne steel lines unless you are comparing 50 years done the road . Stainless because it is harder then stock lines has a tendency to leak because the flare will not slightly deform to conform to the mating surface when tightened like the original type terne steel. Forget painting to make more original .  Don't waste your time because you are trading one non original look for another. If you use conventional fluid you must change no more then every two or three years. Conventional eats paint when it leaks. If you use Dot 5 silicone the moisture will not build up in the lines like they do with conventional fluid .Many restorers use the silicone because it will not absorb water like the conventional because it will not eat paint and you can install it and forget it for a decade. It gives a slightly softer pedal when you are driving on the track so if you are doing that you have to decide. You will not notice any difference with a pleasure driven car.   

Hey guys, I am no where near as versed as the experts and in the old forum I would just search this topic but in the new world post melt down I will put out to the group attached are pictures of the master cylinder I just pulled out of my car... is this original? And if so or not how do I tell ?  And finally to make this an efficient post is this worth rebuilding?

Thank you for the replies.

Cory C 6s1604

That is original Bendix master cylinder. It has the Bendix trademark and the correct ID numbers. It is the early type that used a brass adaptor between the pipe thread in the master and the flare thread of the brake lines.

In concours when something is out of the ordinary on the car entered it is up to the entrant to justify with evidence that the specific car in question came that way. Otherwise some obscure mistake or out of the ordinary condition that is found on another car somewhere would be satisfactory on any car.

I think that goes into the anything is possible column . It is more typically that at least some trace around the edge can be seen. Given that it was supposed to be used the absence of any sealer would call into question of if it was cleaned off for some unknown reason or by mistake forgotten during factory assembly. Ether way is not typical.

If solanoids were produced both with and without goop expressed out from under the rivet, then would both types be concours acceptable? In other words, presented either way is acceptable?

It is not a matter of with or without sealer because the sealer was part of the assembly process. It is a matter of how much and how it is applied.

I have a 1968 390 fastback that the owner wants factory a/c sourced and installed - Car was originally a NON AC car so I need everything inside and out - Please e mail me directly at stephenbecker@bellsouth.net

Thank you

Stephen, it would be good to know the Ford build date. There are some early vs. late type A/C components.

I believe the unit was turned upside done to rivet or to install the insides which would explain the reason why occasionally the top of the rivet head was covered with a very thin layer of sealer. If turned up side down I could envision some excessive sealer oozing out and migrating under the rivet head as the unit was being completed.

[ink]

Based on old discussions on the previous forum and also the Concours forum, my understanding of the C5AE ink stamped filter timeline is...

65-mid(?)66 - Silver body/Red Rotunda ink stamp
later 66 - 67 - Silver body/Red Autolite ink stamp
68-69 - Gold body/Red Autolite ink stamp
69-70 - Gold body/Black Autolite ink stamp

Is that still generally correct?

Thanks,
Dave

Revised stats-      65-66 - Silver body/Red Rotunda ink stamp
later 66 - 67 - Silver body/Red Autolite ink stamp , Gold body/Red Autolite ink stamp , Gold body C5 marked Autolite metal stamped 
67-69 - Gold body/Red Autolite ink stamp,C7 marked Autolite metal stamped
70 (Mustang)  - Gold body/Black Autolite ink stamp
Until more compelling information presents itself.

Bob when do you think the versions with the part number and logo were stamped into the metal were used or came into usage?

Know we went through this subject and similar posted pictures before the big crash.

C5AE version





C7AE version

Jeff on further reflection about the metal stamp filter I would think that they may be a different vendor then the ink stamped version. They were probably used at the same time as the ink stamped version. Also the C5 metal stamped version I believe would have been used earlier in 67 production along with the red ink stamped style with the C7 stamped version being the updated version that came out in later 67 well before 67 production stopped . My speculation in the C7 stamped version regard is reinforced by the need for a change in engineering number to the C7 . If it evolved later it most likely would have a C8 engineering number. I cant tell the difference between the two (C5 and C7 )other then the engineering number. Curiously the black ink stamped versions continued well into 70 production with the C5 number. This makes the most sense to me until more compelling information comes along. 

where does the silver body filter fit in?

Of course the black ink versions are dated for 1970 production and not relevant to 1966 assemblyline production. The silver and gold finish may be a matter of a different vendor . I have seen both otherwise identical . The gold which is over the silver has a higher corrosion resistance .

The amount varied but that one in the picture too much IMO. The glyptal was added to the underside of the rivet and it squeezed out when the rivet was set. That is the process just a little around the edge is all you need and is more typical but it varied.  I just use a little around the edge of the rivet is what I do when I do it.