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There are several non-invasive band-aids that will help lower the engine temperature incrementally. But increments may be all you need to be more comfortable with your car:

1).  If your climate will allow, do not use antifreeze. Use distilled water + water-wetter.

2) adjust  the initial timing slightly to be more advanced. This will reduce the engine temp at low (rpm) speeds.  You can run up to 16 - 18 degrees initial timing if you use the alternate mechanical timing slot in the stock distributor which will reduce total timing back to stock even with more initial. .   If  this causes your starter to drag in hot weather, just back the off a little until starter operation is normal.

3) use full manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum for your distributor vacuum advance. Again, this will advance the timing more (only at idle) which in turn lower the engine temperature when stuck in traffic, etc.

4) More invasive;  install a FlowKooler water pump, the one with their new(er) 16 blade impeller.  This will aid in low rpm cooling vs. a stock water pump.

Z

3) is not applicable to 1967 428 given the duel point mechanical advance dist that is the typical stock distributor. 68 up has vacuum advance.

Ok, this is NOT Shelby specific, trying to give my son some guidance.

he bought a 67 coupe that a PO had done a disc brake conversion on. There is/was no proportioning valve in the system. I suggested just using a complete 68 set-up (distribution block/proportioning valve ) and appropriate lines.
Anyone see a reason not to go this route? I do know it currently has a single pin switch vs the 2 pin 68 switch.

Thanks for any suggestions !

You can do that. It would be best if no lines or distribution block were yet installed if you do. besides the brake light issue if you change , If you already have all of the 67 lines and distribution block installed it may be more efficient to plumb the proportioning valve (same design tube unit as 68 ) in the rear as normal 67.  No reason to reinvent the wheel and expend unnecessary labor if you don't have to. You are not going to see much of a benefit one over the other so I would suggest to do the one that requires the least work/money on a driver type base car that will not have a higher valve if original or not. Just my thoughts since you asked.

If your GT500 engine overheats and pukes coolant and or the starter drags when you try to re start it then it is doing something that it is not supposed to do. The symptoms are common with a BB more so then with a SB especially in hot humid conditions.   There are things that can be done to help eliminate that situation. You have my number if you want to discuss.

  I think might point was this>  Why stamp it for that reason?  How about a 8 X 11 sheet of paper that easilly stated the car is complete - NO scavaging parts -  taped to the windshield.

Curious if you have a theory about what the Z is for then?

Almost there....

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-GT350-Battery-Cable-Bungee-Cord-Clamp-P482363.aspx


Any indea when you might have some more Brant? I'll take a set for sure.

Try Jim at Shelby Parts. They are typically the same as SA added rear battery cable clamps.

The RUG-S needs to be appropriately dated for a January 67 car.  Is December 66 too close to the build date? 

Also if anyone has a good source for Shelby or Mustang parts in Arkansas please let me know as I am not giving up all hope of finding the original transmission - just most hope lol!

FYI It would not be prudent to pass up any opportunity if you are lucky enough to find one . This comes from decades of concours experience. They are that few and far between. Do you know where the Trans date codes are located since you were wanting a approximate date?

Hi
GT500 Horn does not work, ran wire directly from horn to battery and both horns work that way, took off horn button and connected wires and horn is very quiet, barely comes on, ideas?

Steve

I would be glad to help .  Testing ,repair ,etc. it is too much typing for me. I will send you my phone number .

you can just buy the replacement 69 style, a little lacquer thinner and wipe off the black paint. AFTER you get my windows. phred

That is what we have been doing for many decades now.

Hi. Have you been eble to get one new ? As far as Tony Branda told me. It is now obsolite... Any other sourse would be apreciate cause I need this seal for mine too.

TKS
Patrick

I have some extra GT350 ram air seals if needed. PM if interested.

Dave Mathews theory that he put forth some years ago is what I am inclined to believe until better information presents itself. The "Z" was stamped to indicate this car is meant to be shipped out for a dealer or holding lot order so don't rob any parts off of it to complete another car needed to be completed for a dealer or holding lot order. 

That was what I had heard as well and there hasn't (yet) been anything to prove otherwise.

I don't doubt Dave's theory. I think it was based on a conversation with an former SA employee is I recall correctly...
But, I do think Brian's theory could also be true at the same time. Perhaps the mandate to Stamp the "Z" came from Ford as well.

Everyone has a right to their own opinion mine will not change until I see valid info that suggests otherwise . At this point in time I am skeptical of Brians theory opposed to the one Dave puts forth but that is just me.

What was the actual diameter of the exhaust on 65 GT350's? For both street and race as equipped in Venice? Also were the ends straight cut or balogna cut like the current repro kits offered? Thanks -Dean

2 inch street exhaust . Typically angle cut at end on street exhaust. Race exhaust was many times 3 inch.

It was sitting in a gentleman's garage in that condition for 30-40 years....
And there was carryover 4 houses away and the owners didn't know each other...


I think the restoration is very nice..
I should point out that some restorers are following what the owner wants personally or what their budget is.

Bret, I agree the restoration is very nice. With that said on this car given the detailing mistakes seen that don't cost anymore to get right as they do wrong budget would not be a factor. By your statement you are implying that all of the Shelby 101 detailing mistakes the restorer made in this case he did on purpose because the customer wanted them that way? Or were talking about cars in general?

For the Experts, does the Thermactor System look close to correct?

It does meet your close to correct criteria IMO. There are other original assemblyline detailing attempts that are incorrect but you probably saw all of those .

One tray only group 24, no differences for tilt

Pete ,I agree with you for 1968 as I posted before . However in 1967 the battery trays had a series of indexing holes (one set for each different possible available engine)pre punched for tilt vacuum cans mounted on the battery tray support. It later evolved to no holes when the vacuum cans were re positioned under the battery tray. I say a 67 Mustang owner on another website who apparently has acquired a 68 asking about battery tray that included the reference just the other day. Milo apparently saw the same post and was was confused about what was correct.

Rather not go the repop route on this. Any good used ones out there?

There is a difference between tilt and non-tilt trays, no?

Thanks

Milo

No . The poster on the other site where you saw that was mixing a 68 version up with a 67. No difference on 68's.