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Looking for a nice used chrome Autolite stamped valve cover breather cap.

Thanks, Pat

Plastic elbow or steel or does it matter as ether can be replaced.

I wonder if the red carpet was owner added? I am confident the shifter boot and shift knob and red door pockets were.

I'm pretty sure that Jag is the one that Jack Schroll who owned Mostly Mustangs In Oakland used to race against with his 66 GT350 at Sears Point when I was crewing for him. We were always amazed at how fast it was. It was always a dog fight between them.

    Roy

You most likely knew this but for others reading Jack's 66 GT350 that he raced was SFM6S001.

Need help as I have an original antenna with the mast broke off and separated from the unit. Trying to keep the car as original and authentic as possible. Does anyone know of any shops/people that repair the mast back to original standards? Is there even anyway to repair it?

I am not aware of a way to successfully repair a broken off mast. I have NOS and excellent used assemblyline 67/68 antennas. PM me if interested in replacements. 

Working on replacing my exhaust on my late 65 and have a few questions. My car had holes in the floor pan and what looks like rub marks from a round rubber grommet, but all the hardware was gone. Should the U-bolt attach directly to the inner bracket as I have in the photos? This places the mufflers pretty low. Anyone have any photos of an unrestored car with the holes in the lower part of the floor pan?

For the leaf spring mount. Did they just add the bracket and a second nut? I only get about three turns of thread engagement with the second nut. Was a locknut used?

Thanks

I included a vintage SA picture of the 65 GT350 exhaust components. The hole in the floor for the hanger has been seen in various spots. It was put in many times by inexperienced people so location varied somewhat.  I have included a picture of a different location that uses the rubber insulated hanger seen in the factory photo. Your location means your mounting makes the most sense. it doesn't look too low to me.  I have seen some like yours and the mounting the same . Typically one nut holds the hanger from the front leaf spring bolt. 

I'm not near my car, but want to order new universal joints.  I see for the front, there are two versions, internal lock ring and external.  Being a later production car (2386), which do you think it would have?

Ford stopped using internal snap rings on driveshaft U joints at the end of 1966 production. 67 production would be external snap ring . 

Is that original exhaust I see Mr Gaines

Yes sir. The multi hump assemblyline resonators are aluminized from the factory and so at least the outside survives. Inside baffles not so much . They are not much louder when the inside baffles rust out and blow away. That is as long as you have the transverse muffler . The 2 1/4 exhaust pipe on the other hand rusts more from the inside out. In this case given how rusty they appear on the outside I imagine the the inside will meet the outside in short order. For a pleasure driven car I have always kept the resonators and have new pipe welded to them for the original look. Unlike the thick aluminized metal of the resonator the thin aluminized skin of the transverse can't survive as long.

I love the Color Combo.  How long do you think it would take to get the Bow out of the Hood?  I heard you would just lay the Hood out in the sun on a hot day and place weight on it where it is Bowed.

The easiest thing is to disconnect the springs while the hood is down so that it lays flat. The tension of the spring is what causes the bow. Not all hoods are prone to do this. On the ones that do you can do things like the sitting in the sun with a weight on it but the bow will come back in short order especially on a hot sunny day. The only way I have found to permanently eliminate the issue while having the springs hooked up normally is to reinforce inside the underhood inner structure of the hood. Of course this is done inside the underhood inner structure so once completed it is invisible when you open the hood.   

The bias ply tires, no matte who makes them, make the car ride like it has concrete tires.

Any radial will run 100 times better and make the car much more enjoyable to drive.


Some people just keep a set of the reproduction "original tires" just for shows.

They do seem to fit the character of the car so much better but looks are deceiving.

Those WERE the HIGH PERFORMANCE tires of the era but the technology has advanced considerably since them.

I can't agree more with Doug.     - no wait   I can't believe that happened   .  A lot depends on what you are going to do with the car. The two tire set scenario pretty much covers all bases. 

Oval head countersunk screw. From memory I can't remember the exact size but it shouldn't be hard to figure out. They were supposed to be hand paint touched up from the factory with not regard for priming or surface prep consequently the paint commonly flacked off in short order leaving the shiny screw head exposed. The shiny screw head was so commonly seen even on low mileage survivor cars that many restorers thought that they were left unpainted. The carriage head bolt on the front valance was another bolt head that was hand painted touched up that comes to mind.

is one I have for sell if you're interested? Probably had it for close to 50 years. Absolutely mint condition.

       Roy

The Talbot mirror that TA Coupe posted is the second most popular mirror that ended up on 65 GT350 . Both the Bullet style and Talbot style were both available from Ford back in the day . No doubt good looks and ease of accessibility back in the day helped their popularity . 

...put a driver's side door mirror on these cars. But if you did, what is the best one to install?

The one that finds it way on the 65 GT350 more than any other it seems is typically the bullet mirror like used on the 66 GT350.

I have known this car for a couple of decades now and with my judges cap on seeing many other unrestored cars over the years this one is one of the best unrestored 69/70 Shelby's out there.

I've run one of those without any issues, worked great.

+1 . The differance is mainly in the appearance of the cone and the hex vs.square base.

Since you didn't mention which ones you had FYI the 65 to early 67 production used the calipers that utilized the 3/8 hose fitting and the later 67 used the 7/16.