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 Buyer beware . The so called NOS 1967-1968 FORD MUSTANG SHELBY HEATER CONTROL VALVE in this auction is a used part that has had a half ass attempt to make it look new. It is also listed as a new part so there is no mistaking the meaning of NOS in the description . What with the appearance of the part ,the seller is ether clueless or trying to purposely perpetuating a fraud. It is one or the other.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/334420000134  .  The firewall side of bracket shows minor pitting corrosion of the metal which only shows up like that after bead blasting/surface stripping and with no zinc plating like original. There are also witness marks of the screw heads when the bracket was previously secured.  The brass body has a odd tint to it which may be a coating sprayed on . The steel vacuum diaphragm was originally zinc dichromate gold. This one looks like it may be painted to mimic the zinc dichromate.  A genuine NOS unit sells for 350-500.00 but this one if it holds vacuum , functions with the inside valve opening ,closing and is not corroded away would be far less not even close. I just didn't want someone here desperate for a NOS one to be fooled.     

Original 69-73 Rear Sway Bar Plates 30.00 shipped to US address only .PayPal using friends and family option . PM me for any questions. Thank you for looking.                                                                  

For sale NOS 1970 Shelby GT350 GT500 original owners manual. This is one of the varieties that could be found in a 1970 Shelby when new from the dealer. Consequently it is concours correct for judging. This particular variety is not reproduced so when you see it you know it is genuine. Show New condition 100.00 plus 10.00 shipping and insurance. PayPal friends and family only please. US ship to address only . PM me for and questions.Thank you for looking.                                                                           
                                   

I had someone recently ask advice on the 65/66 sway bar appearance and since it is coming to show season I thought it would be helpful to give some insight into concours venue expectations. From the many survivor cars I have seen and NOS bars that I have had and presently have I have the point of view that the 65/66 sway bars were typically not painted. At least until more evidence suggests otherwise. It is a very dark oil quenched spring steel. You want it very dark almost black like it was originally .That is why it is confused with black paint so often. Don't sand it!! The surface is rough and not uniform smooth. Sanding will ruin that look. Chemically strip if painted to keep that from happening. Use your preferred a rust remover product to get rid of rust.  If already previously smoothed out then you will have to think outside the box to come up with a proper approach for a faux finish.  Don't go by the area that is held in the bushing because it may get smoothed out from the action of movement in the bushing.  Gun blueing is one technique to get you closer . I have not been able to completely replicate the unpainted finish to my liking hopefully others can be more successful. I have been fortunate to have been able to use a NOS version when I have needed one. I typically do not deduct for painted in DIV II /MCA trailered but will if the surface is too smooth. I hope this helps.

NOS or used? You be the judge .  https://www.ebay.com/itm/393945259554 . The same seller has this next set for even more money and is even more deceptive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/393945260901   . The second auction is even more money and more parts to be deceptive about. The so called NOS wiper arms have installed  autoparts store Trico replacement variety and refer to them as  "CORRECT NOS WIPER BLADES". Does this guy think really think his description is accurate or is he just hoping some naïve trusting soul will hit the buy it now? Sad. 

For sale here on SAAC forum is a NOS 1968 Shelby GT350 GT500 Original Owners Manual. This is one of the varieties that could be found in a 1968 Shelby when new from the dealer. Consequently it is concours correct for judging. Mine is in Show New condition 100.00 plus 10.00 shipping and insurance. PayPal friends and family only please. US ship to address only . PM me for and questions. Thank you for looking.

I need a reasonable nice kick panel for a survivor 65 GT350 that I am working on. It needs to be black to start with and appropriate patina is desired not a downside.  Any help with a lead on or the part would be much appreciated .PM me if you can help .Thanks for looking.

The 15/16 sway bar in the auction is for 69/70 Shelby and Boss Mustang . It is priced fairly for that application. Unlike the description it is NOT assemblyline correct for 67/68 . Seller has been politely notified but he only made minor changes to his description which is still misleading. I am posting here in the hope that at least forum readers will not be mislead.   The  67/68 15/16 sway bar is a different shape in the sway bar bracket area. Because of supply and demand the 15/16 67/68 sway bars typically sells for at least twice as much as a  69/70 version. One reason is because there were about 4 times the number of cars that used that special bar in 69/70 and consequently more plentiful compared to 67/68 version.  The 69/70 sway bar is a viable replacement and will give more clearance with the harmonic balancer on a 67/68 BB but it is still not assemblyline correct. Information is meant to help potential buyer so they can make a informed decision that is best for them.

  https://www.ebay.com/itm/353654965672  . This is the message I sent the seller who has posted ebay auctions of his here occasionally before.  - " The headers in the auction are 70's and newer replacements. The genuine Shelby American assembyline headers had the tubes welded completely from the back side (engine block side). The replacement headers made in the 70's to present had a tack welds on the outside to hold the tube to the flange prior to welding up the tube. The tack weld is prominently seen in your pictures which dates them after Shelby production had ceased. The tack welds are a highly visible way to help enthusiasts determine if genuine or not. There are other ways too. Best of luck on your auction. Bob Gaines Shelby concours judge". He sent back a message quickly and politely conceded my identification point. He said he was depending on another for the validation of originality. Kudos to Jason for quickly staying on top of the situation. I suggested he  change his language somewhat in his auction. With all of his typically great items it would be easy for a enthusiast to take the Header auction description of authentic at face value.

I thought I would make sure those who are missing a correct speedometer that the ones in a Shelby will always have a "trip" odometer . That is the one with the long stem under the dial to reset the travel miles. The ones with trip odometer are very hard to find in any form . Most gauge restorers are able to reface a standard 120 to a 140 speedometer but they can not add the trip.  This Ebay auction is just one example of a seller not being clear on purpose . https://www.ebay.com/itm/133864844835  . I have contacted him more then once but no response or change in language. There are others.

 This topic has to do with parts and not body ,paint and build techniques which are all just as important but not discussed here. This topic does have to do with relevance of date codes as it pertains to Concours judging.  Date code relevance has been discussed before and it bears repeating again . First thing to get out of the way is that regardless of SAAC or MCA all concours classes expect the car and parts to look as new from the dealer to the first customer. I thought it is good to keep in mind that a concours judge would only be looking for or at dates in DIV I or MCA Thoroughbred . The DIV II  and MCA trailer concours the parts are expected to look correct but they don't have to be date correct. There are no bonus points for dated parts in those classes.  Good reproductions like heater hose and radiator hose ,tires ,regulator ,exhaust to name a few are no point deduction in those similar class/venues. The DIV I /MCA Thoroughbred car is expected to only have original assemblyline parts and no reproduction. Every part would be expected to be date code correct like on original battery,tires , alternator belt, fuel pump, brake hose's ,Glass etc.  Approximately 97 percent or more that enter concours enter in DIVII or MCA trailered. Both class's regardless of venue are expected to look as new and not driven. Striving for everything to be correct is admirable but unless every part follows the same pattern per the class it is expected to get judged in then a few parts that are dated correct will not make a difference in the big picture . I hate to see enthusiasts get wrapped up on date codes for some parts and miss opportunities to get correct parts for their cars waiting for that correct particular date or dates on already extremely rare parts. Just me. It also doesn't make reasonable sense to be obsessed with correct date codes on some parts and then overlook and have incorrect parts in highly visible areas IMO. I think a good strategy is to find the correct part first and then upgrade to the correct date part next because you may not get another chance to get the correct part let alone one dated correct for your specific car IMO. Just trying to help get the best out of the Shelby experience.

This car got me a little emotional because it reminded me of a lost friend 2 months ago today. Mike Heinemann's Boss 429 day 2 car.

I don't think anyone is going to rush out and spend the 8K for these T bird  hubcaps  https://www.ebay.com/itm/274912829470  but just in case be warned that the seller is trying to pass off some tenspoke center cap emblems as 67 Shelby hubcap center emblems. I would like to give him the benefit of the doubt but you have to be awfully clueless not to see that the tenspoke center cap emblems are dramatically different in size compare to the hubcap center . As if I can believe he never set the emblems on to the hubcap center.  What a shame.  By not acknowledging this he is lying by omission. I sent him a message explaining what happens if you try and cut the tenspoke emblem down to fit the hubcap center (lose edges of the Cobra artwork) and I will see how he responds.

 Obscure Cobra marked intake .  https://www.ebay.com/itm/294287152037

  Ebay   https://www.ebay.com/itm/224536938861 . I already messaged this seller last time he listed the same transmission in hopes of helping and not hurting by informing him about 67 Shelby big block 4 speed transmissions so that he didn't look foolish to informed buyers.  Apparently I was ignored. Now he looks kind of foolish by his lack of knowledge on Shelby's especially 67 GT500's. It can't help but make one wonder about the credibility of the other claims he makes about the rebuild and internals. Anyway for some they will get a chuckle for others this is what you DON'T want for 67 GT500. It looks like a it could be a viable service replacement for a aluminum T10 if you can believe his rebuild and internals claims.

A issue that I have posted about before but bears repeating because I get people asking me all of the time about different aspects of the cars and what parts go where. I am glad to help but there are many that don't ask ,afraid to ask ,don't know who to ask etc.  Many of the basic questions in regards to non Shelby unique aspects of the cars can be answered without waiting by using the Osborn made copies of the Ford assemblyline manuals for a given year . Most vendors carry them. Here is a example of one from NPD. https://www.npdlink.com/product/chassis-assembly-manual-65-mustang/138098?  .  The manual is part of a set for different aspects of the car like electrical, body etc. You should get them all.
The illustrations in the different assemblyline manuals will answer about 80% of all questions about placement of parts on the car . You will be glad you invested in them .   They also tell what fastener goes where and the finish on the fastener. The fastener are marked with a number. You will need the AMK guide to fastener to decipher the numbers.  https://www.npdlink.com/product/book-amk-guide-to-ford-fastenrs/138107  .

I am trying to help a friend that Sold a car to a individual in the Seattle area . The seller had to make temporary repairs because the transport was coming quickly and needs to find someone on the sellers end in the Seattle area to follow up with permanent repairs so he can pay for on the buyers behalf.

Does anyone know if there is a 65/66 Battery Box bottom reinforcement on one of the various mfg repro apron's that looks acceptable? If so any leads on tracking down the apron would be appreciated. I need to graft a reinforcement onto a installed apron that is missing the reinforcement.

Seller is misinformed on the application of the auction fuelpump. The seller is well respected and I think that it is just a innocent oversight. https://www.ebay.com/itm/402824063448  . I sent a message to help clear up description issues. This is what I sent . You may want to double check your application. First off only 65 289 Hipo used a fuel pump with a built in fuel filter. 66 and 67 fuelpumps did not have a built in fuel filter. The box may have gotten mismarked or the rebuilder got the bottom section of the pump mixed up with others. The inlet diameter looks to be for 3/8 hose used with 68 on up fuelpumps.  65-67 used 5/16 inlet. If  5/16 hose is hard to fit on the inlet and the hose bulges once on then it is 3/8 . 5/16 hose should push on easily and the hose should not show a significant bulge when installed. In the picture comparison I sent the pump on the right which looks like your picture is 3/8 .Best of luck with your auction. Bob Gaines

I saw this detail in a recent thread on another subject and rather then going in the weeds i thought it would be easy to search for later if I pointed out the assemblyline detail in a new thread. In The picture there is black tape coming from under the fender over to the shock tower. I have seen this before. That tape typically held one of the build sheets used on the Dearborn line. I have seen remnants of this tape many times on survivor 69/70 Shelby's . Not every car had the tape left on it seems because I have seen many survivor cars that did not have the tape visible. It must have been removed when the build sheet was pulled off or any visible remnant taken off possibly at AO Smith prior to putting the fender one. I don't think it was a high priority to remove because it can be found on many cars. I have found small scraps of build sheet paper with its distinct printing design still attached to the tape on the wheel well side . The length of tape and exact placement varied some what from my observations. I have seen as little as just 1/4 sticking out from under the fender to the amount seen in the picture which is on the longer end of the scale seen at least by me.