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No expert here Mr Steve.
Just fortunate to have worked on 1,000+ of these. Figured I'd share what info I have learned.

You obviously learned a bunch! Like Steve said, sharing your acquired knowledge is priceless.

Thanks again!

I think that you will like addressing your "personal interests" better than the day job. I know that it was the best career move that I made.

Best of luck!

Frank

You're all set. I glad I could help/

Frank

Cory, I'll try to explain it without the benefit of pictures or diagrams. So bear with me.

The back face of the thrust plate rubs on the face of the cam-thus limiting its travel forward. Assume that the thrust plate is .250" thick. Also assume that the protruding hub on the sprocket (rear side) measures .255" from the SPROCKET thrust face to the aft end face of the sprocket. When all components are assembled, the aft sprocket face butts up against the forward face of the cam. In THEORY, there should be a total of .005" movement (or "clearance") that the cam/sprocket assembly can move forward and aft. If there were a .252" thick thrust plate installed, that total movement would be .003. If a .254" thick thrust plate were installed, the total movement would be .001". In other words, if the thrust plate thickness was subtracted from the sprocket hub thickness, you will get the theoretical "clearance" between the forward face of the thrust plate and the thrust face of the sprocket, i.e. .255" - .250" =.005".

Remember, all of the above is theoretical. ACTUAL measurements (as I outlined in my first post) can vary.

Frank again.

Cory, the reason for more-than-one thrust plate thickness is to establish thrust end play of the cam/thrust plate/sprocket assembly when installed in the engine. The factory manual states that the end play should be between .001-.007". The varying thrust plate thickness's are utilized to accommodate the manufacturing tolerances of the protruding hub length on the cam sprocket. Determining which sprocket is correct for a particular engine is done empirically by starting off with the thinest trust plate (.250) and assembling the cam/thrust plate/sprocket in the engine. Measure the end play (by prying the assembly forward axially) with a feeler gauge. If it is within specification, your done. If it exceeded the factory spec., select a thicker thrust to establish the recommended clearance.

I hope this answers your question.

Frank

Where can I buy a good measurement gauge to aligne bellhousings? I cant find a real good tool for that? Or what are you guys using?

The best way to determine the alignment of the transmission locating bore of the bell housing is to measure its concentricity with the center axis of the crankshaft. This is accomplished by affixing a magnetic dial indicator base (with dial indicator attached) to the flywheel and "sweeping" the bore (with the dial indicator) by manually rotating the crank shaft one full turn. Ideally, the indicator would read "0" if the bell housing bore was perfectly concentric with the axis of the crank. Naturally this operation has to be completed prior to the installation of the clutch components. Removing the spark plugs also makes the procedure easier. I'm sure that a web search will find a more detailed procedure explanation/pictures.

Frank   

This is not mine. I saw it on Cragslist and passing it on.

Frank

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/carmichael-mustang-parts-goodyear-mini/7420587949.html

Hello,
  I just saw this topic while doing some research on these parts...   NAPA sells the chain (pt. # 9-358)  and the correctly indexed cam sprocket (pt. # S406T)!   They will be special order and no store will have them.
                                                                                                  Mike

Mike, the "rare" one is the crank sprocket. It has been obsolete for quite a while.

Frank

OK I was not sure if new springs needed time to settle or not. Here is another angle that shows it where I think it looks higher. I also thought if I change the tire size to a slightly lower profile that might be the ticket.
So, I can somewhere find and order springs that just might lower it with no other mods?
OR
I can relocate the upper control arms and get my inch lower? (with the addition of bump and steer)

I don't think that the lower profile tires will get the desired "look" that you are after. Lower profile tires will move the nose down slightly BUT they will do nothing to visually reduce the space between the top of the tire and the lip on the fender. In my opinion, this visual effect is just as important as having the nose that is too high. As the guys have said, lowering the upper control arms will drop the nose at least 1" as well as reducing the unsightly "gap" that I eluded to.

Having said that, dropping the upper arms result in a permanent modification. This is something that only you can determine whether or not to execute.

If it were me, I would fiddle with the springs until I got the desirable "look". You know, no one said that you have to start out with NEW springs. Used springs will have already settled prior to your modifications.

Frank

A lot of money for numbers. Lower tank not original, header bucket not original

.........and not to mention, no internal baffle.

Hello- if someone is interested  in additional scoop data for reference? I'm about to start the restoration on my car, 2227 in a few weeks. My side scoops have never been off and it has more than 2 washers on the first 2 rivets (upper and lower). If someone sees value in a few photos of the original paint lines and\or rivet washer locations......I will be happy to post. Very excited about the tear down and following restoration. Been waiting for 2.5 years! Just had other car projects i needed to finish first. Thanks Fred

I would bet that the folks that attached your scoops ran out of the proper length pop rivets and just substituted longer rivets OR the "proper" length rivets were somehow too short for the combined thicknesses and the next size of standard length were a bit too long for the combined thicknesses. I hope that isn't too confusing.

Frank

Yes sir. By looking through the filler neck(s) you can clearly see the tubes showing on the less expensive radiator. On the restored radiator, even though less apparent, I believe that you can see the tubes also.

Frank

It doesn't appear that either of these radiators have the internal baffle in the upper tank as a hipo radiator would have had.

Frank

Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. Old Guy, the term Pipe Plug is the key to me doing a successful search to find a four-sided tool. I have tried the open end wrenches and also a big Crescent wrench but as Old Guy pointed out, someone REALLY tightened the two plugs. Or over time, they have just become extremely stubborn. Also, the thought about getting the "Fill" plug out before the "Drain" plug is helpful. Now off to do some tool shopping for a "Pipe Plug Wrench."
Jeff

Jeff, I also should have mentioned that I would also apply a non-hardening thread sealer (or teflon tape) to the drain plug when you install it. Often times, there is a bit of seepage/leakage from a drain plug which sometimes warrant tightening to seal. Some get carried away as you have witnessed. A pipe plug can be tightened to a point where it will crack/break the case in the process. The sealer should allow a potential leak from occurring WITHOUT the need for excessive tightening. You DON'T want a cracked case!

Frank

Guys, tool manufacturers make sockets for square-headed applications. Just do a Google or Bing search to find out who make them and where to get one.

Pipe plugs can be difficult to remove if someone has over-tightened them in the past (which appears to be the case). Using a square socket allows one to apply brute force to remove the pipe plug WITHOUT destroying it.

Frank