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Thank you both for checking. I've had problems in the past registering with the Boss site so figured I would try here.  From what I read the big block Boss cars tended to have the rod.  I"ll have to see if I can get face to face with a read 70 302 Boss. The pictures of the NOS one were helpful already.

I have the next couple days off to get my 1970 Boss 302 ready for paint and realized the front fenders are original ford but don't have the rolled in lip that the Boss's had (and Mach 1's with the larger tire option).  Can someone post a picture or two so I can see where the fold in starts and ends and to what degree so I can try to replicate it?  The more the merrier! Thanks for your help.

I hate the fact there are so many little details (like variations in red oxide by year etc) that I don't know! I always appreciate the education so thanks to everyone for the feedback. After a few attempts I was able to find a paint dealer a half hour away who has the PPG primer so hopefully I can do some spraying within the next week or so!

Thanks for the responses. I see the spray balm can's everywhere and they look very dark compared to actual cars I've owned. I didn't check PPG and didn't know that the tones could be different so that's great to know before I do anything.  The cars I can see myself doing are a Feb 70 Metuchen car and a May 67 San Jose car.   The 70 floors could be one of the left over paint mixes (grey tones etc) but prefer the primer look and my cars are usually drivers so being exact isn't needed but close with some personal preference mixed in is always a plus.  TLEA- If there's a particular tinting I can do based on year I would like to try if you are willing to share.  Thanks again, Chris

I want to spray my undercarriage with red oxide primer. They are already epoxy primed/sealed and I just want the original look. I've gone to Sherwin Williams Automotive paints (a big supplier) and even looked at Eastwood's and it seems like nobody makes it anymore.  If I go on eBay I've seen a couple "off brand" gallons and who knows if they are the lighter or that dark brownish red oxide color.   Has anyone had luck tinting grey primer? Is there a national source for the correct red-oxide color? Seems like I am not having any luck in CT finding anything so far- what are you guys using?

You are correct I also saw "medium red" on paperwork as "candy apple red" for the same "T" code.  Thank you very much for the code references!

I need some red paint for a 70 project I am working on. I use a Sherwin Williams auto paint center and in the past if I had a PPG or some other paint manufacturer brand number they could cross reference/find the mix for my old paint codes. I used to have an old mustang resto book that had a cross reference table but I can't find it.  Does anyone have any manufacturer codes for 70 medium red code T?  Thanks.

Now that I see a couple originals I'll have to go look to see what I have. 

One listing says its stamped C7ZE and the other C7OE. Should I assume the ZE is for an AT car and OE is 4spd?

I went to Mecum in Monterey.  They had a couple 68's and I believe one was a GT500 and neither were sold with high bids of 70 and 80K.  I think I saw a KR for sale but didn't see what it was bid to.

I'd be interested in seeing pictures of what it should look like if anyone feels motivated to snap a few.

I have a friend who is a Shelby owner and fellow club member who recently purchased an 80's Porsche. I told him he should join the Porsche Club of America PCA as I am also a member of that club. Every time I talk to him he can't get over telling m about the monthly publications  he gets (one national and one regional), the scores of local, regional, etc events. There's something for everyone. There are local leaders who split up the work and break activities down into track days, rally, fun casual events, to monthly club meetings hosted at shops in the area that also provide educational opportunities.  Porsche sells more cars but also has way more members than car owners so that's not the only reason its so much bigger.  If someone is interested in seeing how professionally and different club operates they should check out the PCA, its site and then also its regional sites like the CT Valley Region PCA. I'm sure its a massive undertaking to build the industry relationships, get sponsorships etc to make it work. Regional clubs have guidelines and are held accountable (I don't like McDonalds but sure know I can count on the same look and feel regardless of where I am in the country). The PCA is done so well its hard not to get involved in activities.

It probably sounds harsh but as far as the SAAC club is concerned I don't feel I get much of any value being a member on a "regular basis" but then again I'm a passive member with other mid-life activities taking my time. I maintain my membership because I appreciate that a history of these cars is being maintained (like a donation) and not because I have expectations of getting anything back from being a member. From a club perspective the greatest value to me personally is the car verification and history retention. I get the most out of this forum because I'm looking for restoration information and love the details on these cars in general. Selfishly I would love to see the SAAC club evolve to something like the PCA but that's just one persons perspective and taste.

Ah- saw his name on other Shelby postings on CL but not on this one but it makes sense- he's the project king. Cool find!

Not mine but noticed it and am passing along the info.  If you are patient I've seen decent drivers in the mid 40's to early 50's and with paint costing 10-20k these days not sure if a project is worth 40k but I'm sure it would fit the bill for a do it yourselfer.

https://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/d/1969-shelby-gt-350-project/6608446753.html

If anyone has more details on the car may as well include them here.

Thanks for the info. The ones I've seen look somewhat bare but I've debated just painting those surfaces to protect the metal or if it was considered a big no-no. I guess one option is you seal it and then coat it with red-oxide with overspray to give it a more authentic look. I figured it would be interesting to see how people handle that area on their cars.

I was specifically thinking of my Feb 70 Metuchen car and a May 67 San Jose car.

I was looking at pictures on the internet of the area behind the glove box and gauge area and it seems some cars had a red oxide color while others had body color, black etc.  Should this area- the top of the firewall inside the car and the lower portion of the inside cowl the heater box hangs from be red oxide with black overspray(or whatever color your metal outer dash area was painted)?  Would it be the same for a 67 versus the 69/70 bodies?  Looking at images on the internet was no help