Topics

Mostly 428 related stuff.  See list below.  I will be at space A46 from about noon Thursday until Saturday closing.

Carlisle Parts List – 6-2026
 
C8OF-D distributor, NOS w/NOS HP6 vacuum unit, 7M date.            $1250
SCJ Oil Cooler & Hoses, early takeoff, near mint, original paint        $2500
428 CJ Passenger Side exhaust manifolds; one nicer than most
dated 10/1/68 and one near mint dated 10/28/68                           $450/$400
428 CJ intake manifold, 0C18 date                                                     $350
CJ Finned Aluminum Valve Covers, very nice, no cracks, pair                        $525
Holley parts, large lot including complete jet assortment                 $150
FE block plate                                                                                      $25
FE valley pan                                                                                       $25
PCV tubes – 428 & 390                                                                                   $30
Thermostat housings – average condition                                         $30
1969 Shifter Boxes, several to choose from, each                             $50
1969 Shifter Rebuild kit, one only, price with purchase of above      $65
Clutch Z-bar, modified to clear headers                                                         $40
9" Pinion Snubber w/rubber, no pits, original rubber                                   $150
Backup light switch, 1969 4-speed, nice repro                                              $
Hood turn signal harness, 69 Q-code, complete (both harnesses)               $150
Differential 9" N 8L date, 3.50 rebuilt TL, ready to install                  $950
Backup light lens, '69 thin style for cars pre-3/69.     pair                 $10

Has anyone done this who can advise me on any tricks to this?  Also, I assume there is an internal o-ring so I need a source for this item and torque spec on the caliper bolts.

I need to thoroughly clean the piston bores and don't see a good way to this without straight in access.

For Sale is a 9" N case Traction Lok differential with Richmond 3.50 gears, 8L27 date. Very nice, not pitted,built years ago by TJ Rebert.  Ready to run.  Detailed and installed for a road trip in my old 4.30 SCJ car and stored indoors since.  Not interested in shipping but will bring to SAAC for a $100 non-refundable deposit.


Price is $1250.  firm.  Email me with purchase commitment or questions please; jimwoods7 at outlook dot com

For Sale - Holley List 4279 M carburetor SOLD 

If you have extras of any of the 68-73 style smog pumps, I am very interested in buying them as cores to support my restoration hobby/business.  These are identified by a round relief valve on the side of the pump body and a back cover with the casting number 7801149.  Bonus points for original fasteners and outlet elbow.  You can see what I do with them here:  www.rockhouseracing.com  PM me here or contact by email at jimwoods7 at outlook dot com.

Can anyone ID this car?  The Walt Hane / Bolton Ford car was there too.

I restore original 1968 - 1973 smog pumps to NOS appearance and function.  All are run tested prior to shipment.  I also have complete pumps for sale outright.  The rebuild/restoration price is $435 plus shipping.  NOTE:  SUMMER SPECIAL PRICE $395!
I can provide any date and can change the date on yours to better suit your build date.  PM me or email at jimwoods7 at outlook dot com

See photo below.  More pictures at http://anghelrestorations.com/smog-pumps.html

I have been contacted by a gentleman from the FE Forum who has the complete original smog setup on a '66 Mercury 428 car. Is any of this appropriate for a '67 GT500 (or other)?  It has the check valves at the front of the tube on both sides (or maybe not - see added photo) and the pump is mounted above the alternator.  Here are some pictures.

I failed to take note of this when I had the valve apart.  If you want to "back off" the rear brakes, do you turn the threaded part into the valve body or out of the valve body?  I think I read that the standard Mustang disc brakes had the valve set at 11 threads showing (?) and the Shelby with the larger rear brakes had 9 threads showing, so turning it "in" reduces pressure to the rear?  And I would also deduce that 2 turns (11 threads to 9 threads) made a noticeable difference?

I have a NOS in the box 1966 grill that was damaged in transit to me - maybe?  Anyway, when it arrived, it had some damage so I just set it aside.  This is the correct early style with the blind rivets.  It had fog light brackets mounted before I got it - see the paint witness marks.  One photo shows a closeup of the damaged area.  The center part is bent a little and some of the vertical bars are broken from the horizontal rib.  I think bending it back in place here would make most of these breaks invisible, but I am not going to try.

$150 plus shipping from 28721.