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I found the torque spec for these "bridge bolts" in the shop manual.  65-75 ft.-lbs.

There is no internal fluid transfer o-ring, just the bridge transfer line. Shoud be able to look up torque on any bolt table. 

Ah yes, good point!  So this is not as big a deal as I feared so long as the bolts come out.

The pistons on one caliper came out with compressed air (loudly) but the other side was very stuck and required the grease gun approach, which was messy but quiet.  

Has anyone done this who can advise me on any tricks to this?  Also, I assume there is an internal o-ring so I need a source for this item and torque spec on the caliper bolts.

I need to thoroughly clean the piston bores and don't see a good way to this without straight in access.

Wow.

So no one here adjusts the curve on their mechanical advance.

I would say 2/3 of the time it needs help.  Maybe because it is all gummed up inside or maybe (more likely) it has been monkeyed with in the past by someone who just sticks a different spring inside.  I would plug the vacuum advance, set an adjustable timing light at around 35-36 degrees and set it to that at full advance (whatever engine speed that is) and see what you have.  

I doubt that small movement would result in anything noticeable in the engine performance.  

Is the dwell number with both points active?  I don't recall and I am away this week and don't have the manual.  I know when I run a dual point on the Sun machine I have to isolate one set of points (piece of cardboard across the contacts works).  And I agree to just set the gap as accurately as possible and don't worry too much about it.  I would also say if you can push on the side of the shaft and see the point gap change, it needs a new bushing.  If it is only a tiny bit, you might be okay but I would not close up the gap to get a better dwell reading.  Or run a Pertronix which doesn't much care about a little shaft movement or dwell numbers.

Sorry to disappoint my supporters (thanks guys!!) but I can't do the single advance units; only the dual ones.  I know Brian McDevitt does these single ones and I don't know who else.

There are generic aftermarket units that look identical to the originals.  I guess you would call them NORS?  The Autolite logo on the originals is on the back side under where it mounts and almost impossible to view when installed, so the NORS ones are a good option.  There are some on eBay.  Expect to pay $100 - $200 for one I think - and take a close look at how the plating looks before purchasing.  Search for DD-190, which is the ID number.

Thanks guys for the referral.  Sending Tony a PM.

Sorry to learn this.  He had established a great reputation for himself in the hobby.

There isn't a topper for Gr. 27 battery.

Not a Shelby, but on my early 66 SJ car you can clearly see the VIN stamping from underneath as well, so it could have been verified from that angle IMO.  

Howard Turner's car?  I don't remember the color - probably not red...white?

The one in my Lotus 7 was "boxier".  And I think it was Smiths?

IMO no way the curve results will ID a distributor.  Most of the ones I work on have been messed with.

A C5OF-E uses the 13/18 reluctor.  If it is assembled correctly, the maximum mechanical advance at the crankshaft will be 2 X 13 = 26 degrees.