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Messages - 67350#1242

I've had this thermometer for at least 25yrs.  Not common to find esp. in this condition.
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Question about louvered hoods
February 22, 2018, 07:53:05 AM
Is it also correct saying that not all A/C equipped cars got the louvered hood?
Also, were there any louvered steel framed hoods made?
I assume most of this info would be from owner reporting rather than from documentation.
Jeff, now you got me wondering if what I said is totally true.  I will double check and report back if different - what I said is from recollection and will verify. 

My previous post has been corrected. Thanks, Jeff
QuoteThanks for a very easy to follow explanation of things. I will try these steps myself, seems I cant get into much trouble with them and if not satisfied with my wood restoration skills I might look for some help. A genuine thank you from someone that has done it to someone that needs it done... Two thumbs up!!! ;)

Very happy to share - and if you need any tips regarding spokes or horn button refreshing would be glad to help.   :)
I restored the wheel myself back around 1990.  The wheel wasn't in too bad of shape but varnish was wearing through and kind of dull, grimy looking with a small crack along the grain on the right side.  Spokes and hub had several fine scratches in the brushed stainless.  Horn button likewise with fine scratches in the plastic.  As I recall, the wheel had the same general color as seen - not real blonde or real dark to begin with. 
I think most anyone with patience and hand skills should be able to refinish a wheel that is basically sound to begin with without getting into too much trouble or ruining it.
Basic steps would be stripping, repairing any cracks, light sanding, staining if desired, then applying the finish coat.
As I recall I didn't use any chemical stripper - just fine sandpaper to strip the topcoat. (I may have rubbed lightly with laquer thinner).
I used regular wood glue injected into the crack and drew it closed with several wire ties - allowed to dry then sanded smooth.  For bigger cracks that can't be pulled together I would suggest a stainable wood filler in a darker shade so as to blend with the grain.  If you have separation or cracks in the seam that runs around the backside a matching dark stained wood filler could be used here also. I didn't have that problem.
Once I got down to the raw wood I wiped on a coat of Minwax wood stain, let it sit a little while then wiped it off. At this point you can tell pretty much how it will end up looking. If not dark enough you can repeat the stain. Don't let it dry on the surface just want to penetrate the pores in the grain.   You may want to practice on some scrap wood with different colored stains to get the tone you want.  I think I used a walnut tint that was pretty dark.  Once dry I may have gone over it again with very fine paper to further highlight the lighter areas.  A little back and forth until you're happy with the look.
I just used a spray on clear gloss polyurethane for a topcoat with 400 wet/dry sanding between coats. 2-3 coats, let dry then color sand and polish out any dust, etc.
I understand that a varnish will impart more of a honey tone to the wood and you may want to use this instead if the look isn't rich enough.  Mine looked good enough with the poly.  Coat over the black spoke tips as well.
After 25+ years the wheel still looks great!

Horn is  gold - lighting/exposure make it look lighter.
1242 Ford assembly 2/1/67 has 7A dates on all glass except windshield (ws is replacement Carlite).
Correction - on closer inspection passenger door glass is 6M - vent is 7A.
1242 has a medium to dark tone
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: 1966/67 GT350 Holley
January 26, 2018, 05:53:15 PM
Looks like it is missing the threaded plug for off idle vacuum port on the primary metering plate - pass. side.  You may or may not need a plug depending if you have vacuum advance distributor.  If vacuum adv. dist. will need a nipple adapter.