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Did assembly line have "spark plug type" marking like the one in for sale section?

This stuff is perfect and inexpensive:

http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html#

I ordered  the VW-1 semigloss in 3 different sizes,  I think it was  #6  #8  #10

It's pretty much exactly like the original tubing.  The markings are easily removed.

Would that also explain why a tachometer isn't working in a car with a Pertronix unit?

Maybe a clue.  Under normal circumstances in the run position, the coil gets its power from ignition through the tach then thru the pink resistor wire to the underhood wiring.  If the tach or resistor wire opens up the car won't stay running when key is returned from start to run position.

If your Pertronix and coil is wired separately to ignition by passing the tach/resistor wire circuit it could run with an open tach or resistor wire.

Proper way to run a Pertronix is to bypass resistor wire for power to the Pertronix unit, and to leave the pink resistor wire source to the battery side of the coil - especially if using original yellow top.

Next time it happens try rapping the solenoid with screwdriver handle  - if it shuts off the solenoid probably sticking.

I've had this thermometer for at least 25yrs.  Not common to find esp. in this condition.

Any one with a Broadway Motors car?

Just missed latest Pookie offering 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1966-1967-1968-1969-shelby-mustang-vintage-dealer-emblem-Broadway-motors-MO/332552009071?hash=item4d6da4f56f:g:py4AAOSw4HNaT7-A

Is it also correct saying that not all A/C equipped cars got the louvered hood?
Also, were there any louvered steel framed hoods made?
I assume most of this info would be from owner reporting rather than from documentation.
Kurt

Jeff, now you got me wondering if what I said is totally true.  I will double check and report back if different - what I said is from recollection and will verify. 

My previous post has been corrected. Thanks, Jeff
Kurt.

Thanks for a very easy to follow explanation of things. I will try these steps myself, seems I cant get into much trouble with them and if not satisfied with my wood restoration skills I might look for some help. A genuine thank you from someone that has done it to someone that needs it done... Two thumbs up!!!

Very happy to share - and if you need any tips regarding spokes or horn button refreshing would be glad to help.   
Kurt.

I restored the wheel myself back around 1990.  The wheel wasn't in too bad of shape but varnish was wearing through and kind of dull, grimy looking with a small crack along the grain on the right side.  Spokes and hub had several fine scratches in the brushed stainless.  Horn button likewise with fine scratches in the plastic.  As I recall, the wheel had the same general color as seen - not real blonde or real dark to begin with. 
I think most anyone with patience and hand skills should be able to refinish a wheel that is basically sound to begin with without getting into too much trouble or ruining it.
Basic steps would be stripping, repairing any cracks, light sanding, staining if desired, then applying the finish coat.
As I recall I didn't use any chemical stripper - just fine sandpaper to strip the topcoat. (I may have rubbed lightly with laquer thinner).
I used regular wood glue injected into the crack and drew it closed with several wire ties - allowed to dry then sanded smooth.  For bigger cracks that can't be pulled together I would suggest a stainable wood filler in a darker shade so as to blend with the grain.  If you have separation or cracks in the seam that runs around the backside a matching dark stained wood filler could be used here also. I didn't have that problem.
Once I got down to the raw wood I wiped on a coat of Minwax wood stain, let it sit a little while then wiped it off. At this point you can tell pretty much how it will end up looking. If not dark enough you can repeat the stain. Don't let it dry on the surface just want to penetrate the pores in the grain.   You may want to practice on some scrap wood with different colored stains to get the tone you want.  I think I used a walnut tint that was pretty dark.  Once dry I may have gone over it again with very fine paper to further highlight the lighter areas.  A little back and forth until you're happy with the look.
I just used a spray on clear gloss polyurethane for a topcoat with 400 wet/dry sanding between coats. 2-3 coats, let dry then color sand and polish out any dust, etc.
I understand that a varnish will impart more of a honey tone to the wood and you may want to use this instead if the look isn't rich enough.  Mine looked good enough with the poly.  Coat over the black spoke tips as well.
After 25+ years the wheel still looks great!
Kurt.

Horn is  gold - lighting/exposure make it look lighter.

1242 Ford assembly 2/1/67 has 7A dates on all glass except windshield (ws is replacement Carlite).
Correction - on closer inspection passenger door glass is 6M - vent is 7A.

1242 has a medium to dark tone

Looks like it is missing the threaded plug for off idle vacuum port on the primary metering plate - pass. side.  You may or may not need a plug depending if you have vacuum advance distributor.  If vacuum adv. dist. will need a nipple adapter.
Kurt.