Topics

The "expert""who looked over my recently purchased KR said that the parking brake "needed work". (it's not clear what he meant by that; I only have his notes.) I went to pull the drums off the rear wheels, but I needed a wheel puller to get the drum off the left rear. The inside hardware is so beautiful, you could eat right out of the mechanism. I made a minor adjustment to the star on the right and replaced the drum, but on the left I cannot get the drum back on. Thinking that perhaps the shoes needed to be brought in some, I adjusted the star wheel, but still cannot get the drum back on. So my first questions are what did I do wrong and how do I fix this problem?

Part B: There is an adjuster where the cable for the parking brake splits left and right. Do you adjust the parking brake by making both cables equal in tension? I admit, I did not test the parking brake to see if it worked properly or not. (yeah, I should have!) The brake handle itself has good tension when you pull on it, but I don't know if it would hold the car or not.

Thanks for any and all suggestions

steve

Is there a special lug nut socket to prevent marring of the lug nuts on the 10 spoke Shelby wheels? Thanks Steve.

As I continue to familiarize myself with my new KR, I see that there is a green timing mark on the harmonic balancerthat appears to be at @ 90° BTDC. This is a very specific green that looks much like one of the other factory marks on the car.I can't figure out why there would be a mark at 90°. The harmonic balancer is clearly engraved for TDC (white line) 10,20 and 30 "BTC". Thanks, Steve

Please excuse my paranoia with this car, but I'm afraid to do anything that might undo the great restoration that was done in front of me. So, with the car up, I see this black stuff that looks like a bit like a melted black plastic bag on one of the exhaust pipes. It's really pretty flat with respect to the pipes surface, and looks like it would be difficult to remove. I assume that it does not belong there, but before I start trying to scrub it off I thought I'd better check with the pros. Thanks again for helping me as I learn more about these cars. Steve

This was the first time that I put the KR on my two post list. It looks like both front and rear frame rails have holes machined into them. I'm guessing these are for factory or racing jacks of some sort. Is this correct? Here are some pictures. Thanks, Steve.

As I was waxing and fondling my new KR, I noted what looks for all the world to be clear silicone wiped across the top of the rear air scoops. It is on both sides of the car and does look like someone took a clear silicone bead, and then tried  to wiped it off. Since it's on both sides, I wondered if it might be factory correct. The car is a well-known award winner and that is another reason I thought it was proper. A picture is attached for your perusal. Any comments? Thanks again, Steve.

I'd like to replace the hose I've depicted here, as it it too short, and took a short cut across the valve cover. Is there a source for this, or do I just go to my FLAPS and get some heater hose and call it a day? Car will never be shown in my stewardship, but I'd like to keep it as correct as possible. thanx steve

Are the inside panels (rear wheel wells) supposed to be left just body-colored paint, or is there a protector of some sort in front of the painted surface?

Also, I found this cardboard piece laying loose in the trunk (the car is new to me). Does it go to anything or??

thanx steve

NEED GOOD 1° bowl for 9510-44
date 854.

thanx steve meltzer

Gonna need a new ?rebuilt starter...dunno nothing about if the one i have is original, etc. Thanx, steve meltzer, obvious newbie

The pro who checked out my KR before the purchase, said the power valve in the primary bowl was leaking. Having replaced these and the gaskets on Corvettes (4160), I felt confident I could do this with ease....but, not so fast big boy. I replaced the PV and its gasket, carb started leaking immediately. New A-pump diaphragm (i thought it was leaking from there). No bueno. New metering block gaskets, both sides, still leaking.  If you put fuel down the venturi orifice to fill the bowl...key OUT of the ignition...fuel leaks immediately.I've never had this sort of trouble with these carbs in the past. When I pull the bowl and metering block the next time, it will be my 7th time.

Now, I'm thinkin' that this is a carb body problem...warped surface, or ?? But, and I don't see how, could a bad PV give these symptoms? (Car not running.). The car "dieseled" at shut off, when I drove it, but apparently not at the PPI, or they missed it.

What is the correct PV for a Holley double pumper, List 4174 on a KR? Does it have 2 rectangular fuel slots or multiple drilled holes? What is the best way to test a PV?
Lastly should I just replace the bowl and the metering block or, does the metering block authenticate anything and I should see if anyone can straighten it? (i think it says "6673")


thanx steve

What is the best and easiest to follow wiring diagram for '68 KR? thanx steve

I know A/C in these cars is rare, but how well does the factory unit work? I know that a 55 year old unit, in a black interior, in Texas, with global warming doesn't bode well, but what can I expect? Will it pose heat problems for the stock 428CJ set up?
thqnx steve

Maybe he'll se this or someone can provide his screen name. Want to visit about '68 KRs. thanx steve meltzer <gtc8995@gmail.com>

FOR SALE AT COOPER CLASSICS:
https://www.cooperclassiccars.com/1968-shelby-gt500kr-c-4727.htm
OR ITS OWNER, ETC?
EXPENSIVE AT $295K....HIGH RENT DISTRICT....GREENWICH VILLAGE, NYC
KNOW SOME ONE WHO COULD LOOK AT IT ON MY BEHALF?
THANX STEVE MELTZER