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If most carbs idle with mixture screws all the way in it points toward finding fuel elsewhere not a vac leak.

I always retorque everything after a few hot/cold cycles.

If you have a stock unchanged 3259-1 it can idle with mix screws in due to massive idle feed. But it shouldn't run well.

I do have a stock / unchanged 3259-1.  With the screws all they way in, it was barley running and running very rough.  But it was not dying. There is not a ton of difference in how it runs with the screws in or 1.5 turns out.  RPMs are low and jumping around in park.   

Thank you everyone for the input.  I got everything hooked up yesterday.  I tightened with a hand wrench to snug.  I then used my torque wrench to go to 60 in-lbs, which actually was not very much pressure.  I could turn the torque wrench with 1 finger and went about 1/4 turn before it clicked. 

Started the car up and it runs, but it is running very rough.  Idle mixture screws were out 1.5 turns when I first turned it over.  I played with those for a while, but was not able to clean it up.  I finally turned the mixture screws all the way in and the car continued to barely idle.  I am guessing I still have a vacuum leak and need to tighten more?

Any advice is appreciated.     

Thank you everyone for the quick replies.

Here is a picture of my current set up.  My spring is stretched out a little further.  Do I need to adjust?. 

Hi Everyone:
I am reinstalling a Holley 715 after a carb rebuild and I have a couple of quick questions.

1) I have a small 1/4 drive torque wrench (in/lbs).  I looked in the Holley specifications for their typical carbs and it indicated to torque the hold down nuts to 60-80 in-lbs.  Is this correct?  I am running a stock Shelby intake manifold and two gaskets with and a 1/4" heat dissipator.  Right now they are just finger tight. 

2)  Trying to figure out a return spring set up.  I have a generic bracket and a single spring setup.  Anyone have a different setup they would recommend? 

66 Shelby GT350H.

Hi Everyone,
I have a 1966 Hertz that is currently running a Holley 715.  What are the chances of finding an Autolite 4100 6CZF-F? 

Thank you for the quick replies. 

Hi Everyone,
I could use a little advice.  When I drive at freeway speed for hours the car runs perfectly.  However, if I get into stop and go traffic in town, the car dies when I come to a complete stop while in gear (auto) after about 15-20 minutes of driving.  I can restart in park and it idles perfectly.  If I try to shift to drive without giving it some gas, it dies again.  It runs perfectly once I get it going again, as long as I don't stop in gear.   

Temp gauge reads a little warm.  It usually sits at the "M" in TEMP, but always has for as long as I can remember.  Years ago I tested actual temperature with thermometer and heat gun and it was well within range.     

Fuel pump and fuel filer have recently been replaced.
I removed the ignition coil and don't hear any indication of fluid when i shake it.
Fuel lines are away from block and headers.

Should I just go ahead and replace the coil?  Other ideas?