Messages

The set screw is not bottoming out. It's just not long enough to secure the handle tightly before it loses it's grip with threads in the handle. Hence, I was thinking a longer set screw, but I can't figure out what size it is. Nothing at the hardware store will screw into the handle easily.

The hole in the handle is threaded all the way thru, so its not a matter of taping further threads to extend it.

The shaft has a recess in it, where the set screw pushes into to secure the handle. Maybe it is worn a bit, but my set screw won't screw in far enough, without losing grip on threads in the handle, to secure the handle to the shaft properly.

I need a new set screw for the automatic shift handle on my 70 GT 500. I just spent an hour at hardware store and we tried every size they had. Nothing would thread in. I still have my old set screw and it goes in fine. I want to try a longer one to firm up the handle. Anyone know what the correct size is?

Where do I look on the block for a number to see if it matches the vin? Do the heads have a matching number also?

Where do I find any serial number or other identifying numbers to see if it is original?
. KR500 I agree with you. And, other than an attempt to make it as original, it makes no sense to put a heavier rotating assembly back in, given the advancement in alloys and new products. But that's another debate.

I'm just hoping the rest of the engine is original. Where do I look?

Yes, both the counter weight and scj pulley were replaced, which means the scj crank and those heavy rods are gone also. Can't have those without that counter weight and scj pulley. So, I guess I'm asking how do I check to see if the block, heads, etc are original to the car? If they are I might pull that engine and find some scj rotating assembly parts to put it back like it was originally.

I have a 70 GT500 drag pack. It now has the smaller crank pulley, so at least the original 428SCJ crank and lemans rods have been removed. I'm hoping somewhere along the path, someone just rebuilt the engine and replaced the rods and crank and pulley to shed that weight. Maybe the rest is still original. I've read that the only difference between a 428CJ and 428SCJ are the rods, crank, and pulley. I'd like to restore the engine to a 428SCJ if the rest of it is original. How do I go about determining if the rest of the engine is original? Where do I look? What am I looking for?

The car does have the oil cooler in front of the radiator support.

Tks for the photos. It appears that I do have the original "Alternator" gauge, but an older SW oil pressure gauge.

I have no idea what the original gauges look like? The Branda gauges look very similar to the picture of the pair posted in this thread?

What are the Branda gauges missing?

I also have no clue where the fuel sending unit is located, or how to go about pulling it to check it? Any step by step would be greatly appreciated! Is there an easier way to test to see if the sending unit is the problem w/o pulling it? Maybe at the gauge?

Where can I buy original style replacement gauges for the 2 round gauges in the console in a 1970 GT500? Mine don't appear original. Certainly don't match. Anybody change out the ammeter to a voltmeter or replace with a temp gauge?

Also, my gas gauge suddenly went inop.  What would be common causes of that to check?

I now own this car. When I bought it, it came with a framed Marti Report and Window Sticker. My Window Sticker is complete and perfect, but probably not original. The car was originally white with red interior, but has been red with black interior for many years. It is an original drag pack, so it came with a SCJ 428, but someone removed the Lemans rods and balancer at some point, so now she's just a CJ. All of those deducts make buying the original window sticker at this price very unfeasible. Sure, I'd like to have it, but I've already got a really nice presentation of window sticker/Marti report for it.

What diameter is the C9ZE fan?

The primary difference is the fan bolt circle. 2710 and 2711 both have a 3.00 fan bolt circle, have the same pilot diameter and depth, but 2711 is just a bit shorter. 2765 has a 3.25 fan bolt circle, a larger pilot diameter and shorter depth. Hayden does have an adapter to reduce the pilot diameter on the 2765 down to the same as the 2710/2711.

What I have seen is that there are several different 7 blade fans for the 428, and they all look the same. I have a huge 19.5" fan and it is the 3.00 fan bolt circle, so a 2710/2711 should work. I have seen fans that are 18.5" that have the 3.25 fan bolt circle. You couldn't use a 2710/2711 with that fan, and would have to use a 2765. Hayden makes several universal type fan clutches with a 3/25 fan bolt circle also. 

The Hayden 2765 has a 3.25" fan bolt circle, and the Ford 428 seven blade fan has a 3.00" fan bolt circle.  Looks like 2710 and 2711 are the correct choices, with 2711 being a bit shorter. I confirmed with Hayden that 2765 has a 3.25' fan bolt circle.

Why did you go with the Hayden 2711? The 2710 is the one that Hayden says is for the 428? Is the 2711 shorter? Clearance issue?

How would adding a clutch to the fan increase cooling at idle over a fan w/o a clutch?