Messages

Featherlite owner here, I recommend full length L Track (airline track) for options as far as loading various length cars. Don't get a trailer with a standard hitch length, these make it nearly impossible to turn sharply and you will need to, believe me, at the least opportune time/place. A trailer winch is great for loading/ unloading but aren't totally necessary. Interior lighting for your trailer is great for checking on your load at night or unloading. At a minimum get the highest rated axles you can and don't get a trailer that comes with glorified car tires (light weight 15's with a mediocre load rating. For tie downs, check out MAC's, they are the best quality and stand behind their products. I've used their products for over 12 years.

https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_bjgbey9gIVpB-tBh1tNQZSEAAYASAAEgKxdvD_BwE

I've seen similar on eBay.

mlplunkett,

The Avon CR6ZZ tire in 245/60-15 would be a better choice for a street driven car. The R7, while a "sticky" tire, takes several minutes to even come up to optimum temperature on a race track. The R7 does not do well in temperatures below 40 degrees and in damp to wet conditions have less than ideal adhesion. Plus, you'd be lucky to get 400 miles on a street driven set.

After watching numerous videos and getting a little first hand instruction I felt I was ready for applying clear bra over my car. Removing it, when the time comes, will involve judicious use of a heat gun and careful pulling.

The clear bra I chose is Xpel self healing type vinyl. Amazingly after getting used to the application process I'm finding it goes on easily if you follow certain guide lines.
It's virtually invisible once applied except for seam lines, and after applying I applied a sealant to protect the film surface prior to applying a wax. I'm very pleased with the results.

I apologize if this has already been posted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8G_pl5k6Dj8

Thank you for your reply, I'm applying Xpel to those areas most vulnerable to rock chips.

I happened to ask a friend about cutting tempered glass, he informed me they now have a laser glass cutter they use. Anyone heard of this method, if it indeed works it might be the remedy for these oversized windshields/back glass panels.

It's always best to start with the least aggressive method first, sanding would be my last resort. If you were to use the MF pads and do the polishing by hand I would do the entire windshield. This will remove any imperfections, imbedded grime, etc from the glass. The next more aggressive method would be a random orbital polishing machine with a wool pad. With a scratch as you described I don't think it will be necessary.

If the scratch is indeed a fine scratch a product like this and several Micro fiber pads should remove it. The key is to work the polish in several directions, across the scratch and then along the scratch to work the edge of the scratch down.

https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html?productid=carpro-ceriglass-polish&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&utm_campaign=1504990722&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=287205172222&utm_term=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8PPRzt_p9QIVQhh9Ch0FiwnjEAQYASABEgKeFPD_BwE

My question is has anyone applied clear bra over their 69-70 side decals on their Boss 302. It's been implied that one can without any issues, while others comment it can leave a raised bubble where the two materials cross over right along the two edges due to the thickness. Anyone have an experiences either way with clear bra over decals. Thank you for any input.

The best deterrent I ever heard was a plain trailer clearly marked with placards with Live Venomous Snakes.... which to the uninitated isn't too far from the truth.

Without knowing your budget, there are several options on the site Racingjunk. Here's one with spares, etc:

https://www.racingjunk.com/gt4/184282290/2019-ford-mustang-gt4-fresh-roush-yates-5.2l-v8-race.html?category_id=83&np_offset=40



+++ FYI, I have no affiliation+++

Look into car door cup protectors, there are multiple sources out there via internet.
Here is one of those resources:     https://lamin-x.com/door-cup-handle-guards/

The Avon's would be a better choice for street and occasional track day. The Hoosier TD-R's are not DOT certified, but a dedicated track tire and are a little pricey at $830/ea. depending on sizing.

A viable alternative to Finishline is Acton Custom Enterprises, just a suggestion if you are having difficulty with Finishline coming through.

https://www.actoncustom.com