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Well as I lie here in the hospital 10hrs after getting my second full hip replacement and unable to sleep, my thoughts turned to my Shelby, as they do.
I'm in the middle of a resto and the car is completely stripped
The wiring throughout the car appears to be in good shape, so I was planning to clean it up and re-use it, not to save money on new wiring but to retain originality.
It occured to me it would be sensible to check here with those who have "been there and done that".
I know there is no correct answer just informed opinions on this but......
Am I being stupid retaining 50yr old wiring or is it a typical and accepted thing to do to retain originality?
The car will be driven but I am trying to be correct as best I can in the restoration.
As always, thanks in advance.

Well, I thought about it and...ordered one from Jack at dead nuts on. Freight to Australia US$170- so not too bad.
Thanks for the advice once again.

Wow, what a treasure trove of info, thank you all VERY much.
I can now go forward and get the job done right.
I can see now that my panels are a charcoal grey and really a long way off black. 
I've asked a lot of questions here over the last 6 months or so, and am very grateful for the helpful(and patient) responses, the car is also very grateful.
Thanks once again for taking the time to share your knowledge gents, very generous of you all.

Mine are a bit scratched up but in good shape otherwise.
A bit of research saw Krylon 1613 semi flat black recommended but I can't find it in Australia.
In fact, I can't find anything else that is described as "semi flat"(I can find "semi gloss" and "flat")
Has anyone used an alternative that worked out well?

Thanks as always for any advice.

Response direct from the seller today after I PM'd him on ebay and suggested his ad was ambiguous and unclear.

"sorry if i wasnt clear... in 1965, all White 1965 K code Fastback Mustangs were solid lift cam factory built race cars and that were built for one purpose... to go to the LA Carroll Shelby facility to become registered Shelby GT350 cars.. however, there were a few that missed pick up.. this one is not in the registry, however, appears that it should have been.. The vehicle title shows Shelby, however, it is not listed in the registry with a SFM # .."

I guess that clears it all up....

The deadnutson ones are nice but I would guess freight to Australia would be around $300- minimum, most likely more...good option to have though.
I think I will give the evaporust a go as I will be doing it myself so no real cost involved.
At least now I know now to prepare myself for a likely less than stellar outcome, so that is handy knowledge.
Thanks Bob and everyone.

Mine has what I imagine is the usual 50 year coating of rust and dirt.
I found a post on concoursmustang where the shaft was immersed in a bath of evaporust in a tube of 4"pvc(smart idea!)and then scrubbed off with 220 to 600 grit.
Is this the accepted method, or are there other ways?
Thanks as always.

What are your expectations for the end result?

This is the end result on the thread I was looking at, I would be happy with that.
I did see the new ones at deadnutson and dont expect it too come up that good.

Mine has what I imagine is the usual 50 year coating of rust and dirt.
I found a post on concoursmustang where the shaft was immersed in a bath of evaporust in a tube of 4"pvc(smart idea!)and then scrubbed off with 220 to 600 grit.
Is this the accepted method, or are there other ways?
Thanks as always.

Both are raw, natural finish.

+1 . To elaborate further the control valve is cast iron and the nose section is steel like the ram body. Each looks different in its raw natural finish when compared to each other. There should be a contrast between these two different natural finishes
[/quote
Got it, thanks very much Bob, your advice is always appreciated.

Can someone please advise what is the correct finish for the power steering control valve and ram on a KR?
Thank you.

Im even more excited because Michael Vandon tells me by PM that Kaka also has that hard to find 428CJ block Ive been looking for!!

Try Brandon in Washington state. 1-509-713-5291




Luck
Troy

Thanks Troy, I'll give it a shot

On the vast majority of Ford service parts, the chrome border is painted black. It can be cleaned off if you are careful with a qtip and a small amount of thinner.

The Ford service part may also have the chrome rings around the two largest bezels painted black.

Yet another case of the service part not being exactly the same as the production part

Thanks for the tip Pete, i will try the q tip ...with caution.

Im sorry I dont have one for sale but i recently bought what i thought was a NOS 68 woodgrain bezel.
It came in Fomoco box, stamped with Fomoco symbol and part number but does NOT have chrome around the bright light indicator.
Does this mean it is a repro and  not NOS?

i believe that would be a ford service part and not assembly line

I see, thank you.
Apologies,  it just occured to me that was a bit of a thread hijack.

Im sorry I dont have one for sale but i recently bought what i thought was a NOS 68 woodgrain bezel.
It came in Fomoco box, stamped with Fomoco symbol and part number but does NOT have chrome around the bright light indicator.
Does this mean it is a repro and  not NOS?