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So....I was planning to dissemble my springs, refinish, chuck out the old bands and replace with correct square hole bands.
I didn't realise but had a closer look at my leaf springs today(they are not original) and the bands on it are the type with a "rivet" on one side and open ends on the other.
My question is, can I remove those bands and replace them with the different, but correct, square hole bands?
I can get new Scott Drake springs(made in India) in Australia with in a grey finish but they have the round hole band and come to the retailer in bulk on a pallet so are all scratched up.
I could import eaton springs but they are black, would be happy with the ones from Virginia classic mustang but freight alone on either of these options is about US$650- to Australia.
Hence, I'm back to having my existing springs phosphated which I can get done for about US$200-.....but this only makes sense if I can replace the existing bands with the "correct" style.
Can I?

Thanks all. 

Amber/yellow in the trunk?
Same on the doors?
Thank you

I'm pulling the leaf springs on my KR apart to refinish them(they are currently black).
I've never done this before, is it OK to re use the clamps or best to replace them?
Thanks in advance as always.

I just came across some original DMV rego/licensing paperwork for this car from 1970 to 1973.
Seems the long term owner of my KR also owned this one, looks like he bought it new, and some of the paperwork ended up with me.
Happy to pass it on to the current owner for no cost, subject to proof of ownership of course.
Please get in touch if it's yours.

This wheel was on my KR when I bought it, I know its not correct but I like it a lot so I'm going to leave it on.
I've read that some of these wheels had an electrical short problem that could lead to a fire, can anyone tell me if that issue applies to my wheel, or if there is a way to tell?
Also, is this wheel meant for a KR or is it a 67 wheel? If it is for a 68 were they sold at Ford/Shelby dealerships or as an after market accessory?
Finally, there's a bit of an unsightly gap between the wheel boss and the column, is their meant to be a "sleeve" or something there to tidy it up?
Thanks in advance as always.

This is the set up as it came off my KR, can anyone tell me what the cylinder shaped object with "HURST" written on it is? It has 2 wires coming out of it.
Also, any best method of cleaning up the distribution block? Soak it in
Thanks in advance.

Well as I lie here in the hospital 10hrs after getting my second full hip replacement and unable to sleep, my thoughts turned to my Shelby, as they do.
I'm in the middle of a resto and the car is completely stripped
The wiring throughout the car appears to be in good shape, so I was planning to clean it up and re-use it, not to save money on new wiring but to retain originality.
It occured to me it would be sensible to check here with those who have "been there and done that".
I know there is no correct answer just informed opinions on this but......
Am I being stupid retaining 50yr old wiring or is it a typical and accepted thing to do to retain originality?
The car will be driven but I am trying to be correct as best I can in the restoration.
As always, thanks in advance.

Mine are a bit scratched up but in good shape otherwise.
A bit of research saw Krylon 1613 semi flat black recommended but I can't find it in Australia.
In fact, I can't find anything else that is described as "semi flat"(I can find "semi gloss" and "flat")
Has anyone used an alternative that worked out well?

Thanks as always for any advice.

Mine has what I imagine is the usual 50 year coating of rust and dirt.
I found a post on concoursmustang where the shaft was immersed in a bath of evaporust in a tube of 4"pvc(smart idea!)and then scrubbed off with 220 to 600 grit.
Is this the accepted method, or are there other ways?
Thanks as always.

Can someone please advise what is the correct finish for the power steering control valve and ram on a KR?
Thank you.

Looking for a C scratch 428 block, late May early June dated.
I expect this search will take some time so I'm just going to pop it up here every now and again, any leads appreciated.
I have a newly built 427 stroker(482) going in the car built on the block that has been in the car since the 70's, but once I've had my fun I would like to see the correct motor in the car, so starting the search now.

https://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/2021-shannons-spring-timed-online-auction/K7D6A7FDFCF5Y7BT/

Price guide is in au$, I have no connection to the car.
I think there may be one or two things "not quite correct" here.....
I can only imagine the RHD conversion was done 20 years ago when first imported, no-one would do that to a Shelby now....though some are still doing it to classic mustangs here but most are now left as LHD which occasionally makes overtaking at highway speeds tricky as we drive on the LHS side of the road over here.

Have found a place that will phosphate parts for me and would appreciate advice/help on parts that I should have phosphated. I have used the search function but I'm 200 miles from the place so hopeful of getting everything I need done in one go.
So far I intend to phosphate finish
1)hood hinges and springs
2)hood latch
3)spindles. I know phosphating not correct but is it the best compromise available?
4)AC idler pully bracket

Also, for the pieces that have a natural finish is cast iron paint the way to go if I don't want to leave it susceptible to rust.

The car is undergoing a full resto, not looking to show for concours but am trying to be correct where I can.

Thanks in advance for any help.

My chrome guy rang today and is prepping the front bumber for rechrome.He said the bumper has a 1/4" slight dip in the middle vs ends so it's not dead flat from side to side ie it has a very slight V when looked at head on, he can make it dead straight if I want but I'm not sure if it's meant to have that little dip or not?

The attached paperwork shows 4159 was purchased new 31.3.69 and was then part of the U-01(1969 Shelby wheels))wheel recall campaign, date of recall/wheel replacement shows as 5.6.69, so it seems 4159 likely left the dealer with 69 rims but who knows for sure.
I've read through another thread on this forum with general consensus mostly that the U-01 recall was due to the glue holding the steel rim to the alloy center letting go, but there was also some discussion that it was to do with the lug nuts coming loose.
Interesting thing about my wheels is that while 4159 was part of the U-01 recall campaign the wheels on it are of the glued, not riveted type.
I've attached a pic which shows they are dated 5/68, so I'm curious if anyone else has any 69 wheels replaced under the U-01 recall that were not riveted.
Anyway, that's just for interest and maybe something dodgy went on with 4159's wheel recall.

After all that, I do have a question....Whilst my original wheels appear sound they are 53yrs old, glued style and the chrome has some imperfections......so....I'm putting my original wheels on the shelf and replacing them with 69 Paradise wheels(bit of a wait but that's OK), would the 15x 8" rim(rather than 15 x 7") present any problems?
Will 15x8 all around fit OK or should I go 15x7 front and 15x8rear?

The obvious question(so I will answer in advance) is why not take the opportunity to put 68 10 spokes on, or 68 original rims if I could find them...     
Reason is, I can't warm to the 10 spokes, love the look of the 69 wheels on my car and it seems that's the way it came so I'm keeping it that way. And it's an easy switch out for any future owners that may want to, not that I have any intention to sell...ever.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Geoff 

Dropping off at the chrome shop, this will run about $6k for everything you see inc bumper resto pre chrome, be interested how that compares with the USA?

I'm ordering new power steering hoses from blue dot specialties and thanks to Pete's Coralsnake website(thank you Pete) it's simple to match up the part numbers there with the part numbers on the blue dot website....... except for hose C8ZA-3A719-A that is. This hose does not have armor and is a different length to the 67 and 69 hose. Blue dot website advises to use C7ZX 3A 719 A for a KR with oil cooler but while this hose does not have armor I think it may be for the small block. Blue dot(by email) advised to use C9ZA 3A 719-A but this is wrong date code and has armor(which this hose for a KR should not).
I may have some of this wrong, any advice or direction on how best to approach this to end up with the most correct outcome is much appreciated, thanks in advance.     

My fan clutch is out of the car and not feeling very smooth when you turn it by hand.
I was kindly referred to Chris Brown by Don(thank you Don) for a replacement and whilst he has some fan clutches  my fan clutch is marked E-C8OE-A, which I believe is correct for a KR with AC, well at least for a 68 cobra jet with AC and Chris doesn't have this version listed. No email address on his website so I may have to stay up late and call, just like in the good old days, as I'm in Australia.
I have found clutches designated B and C but not A, is there anyone who rebuilds these? Or any leads on where I might be able to get the A version? Or worst case, will the B or C work OK?
Thanks in advance, the help provided selflessly on this site by so relatively few to so many is a great thing.
Geoff

Well the motor has come up pretty well, no cracks or other issues, its a 427 top oiler from 1963 likely to have been in the car since 1970 but can't be sure,
scat stroker kit now in 482ci, mahle pistons, waiting on heads from trickflow hopeful for may delivery, edelbrook victor manifold , unsure if 4174 AA carb will provide enough food but we will try.

The original intake manifold on my car is long gone and it currently has an Edelbrook streetmaster on it. Motor is currently out and undergoing a full rebuild, the engine guy wants to put an Edelbrook Victor on it, which is about 1.5" higher than the streetmaster. I'm not sure how either compare to the height of the original cast iron intake.
Does anyone know if the Victor will fit under the KR hood?
To explain ....The car is being rebuilt as a driver not for concours, engine is not original in fact is a 1963 top oiler 427 so the good side of that means I can have some fun....taking the opportunity to stroke to about 480ci, (bore was standard prior to this rebuild), trickflow heads going on, hooker headers and so on.
I know it would make more sense to source a correct date coded 428 and put the money into that but that search might take years and I want to drive my car now. Also, I believe the 427 has been in the car since 1970 so it's quite at home there, that said I do hope to at some stage source a May/June dated 428.Meantime the 427 at 550/600hp will make me smile.   
Thanks in advance.