Messages

... ...In several occasions... But I have been corrected with numerous replies...

Hmmm.. I think I know what the issue is... 

Kool

Excellent Chris,

One item to mention. The potmetal is not very conductive. If you are painting it, its probably going to create more issues

Agree.

After applying paint make sure to roll up some sand paper and clean out the light socket holes. Apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease to ALL pieces when reassembling.

Here you go... I don't have the patience to upload these to the forum

Dropbox link:   https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/xfwe2uu2mbgvqwwox3yuz/AL0g4LS7Okz-TLtmFEARMkA?rlkey=e78vazgk2n1zti5511wrjbj1f&st=q5lqfg1p&dl=0

Chris

[just like the real ones 1965 through 1967]

.......

The GTH is a limited edition and has a CSM tag just like the real ones 1965 through 1967

You have taken the first step to your recovery by acknowledging the "REAL ONES" were built 65-67. ALL OTHERS are FORDS whether it came from Detroit or has its final modifications in Las Vegas all have FORD VINs and were warranted through Ford dealers.
BTW The csm numbers are useless there is no reference such as a SAAC registry for these Mustangs that SA modified. BTW they were shipped as complete Mustang GTs and SA sold the take off parts. In the past SA had the clout to get Ford to assemble the chassis as they desired it.
I think it's fraudulent that SA states "manufactured" on that tag. In order for a vehicle to be manufactured by any company it needs to carry a specific 17 digit VIN as prescribed by .gov. Assembled/modified would be a more accurate descriptor.

 You might as well walk up to a window and ask it to break. We've been over this ground time and time again with this individual.

His comments are generally misleading.

New vehicles with aluminum blocks are... you guessed it...sleeved including Corvette.

Looks like a neat project, can't wait to see the progress.

Regardless of brand (70% of which are made in the same production facilities these days, then relabeled), you'll want a 2K epoxy primer, not an etch primer (good for spot repair, not suggested for overall) followed by a high build primer once bodywork has been accomplished. Welding, use the etch primer followed by a scuff/sanding, then a 2K epoxy primer on top of this. Do your regular bodywork (fillers and such), finish off with a high build primer, then sand again until you feel the panels are as smooth as you want them to be.


Bill

I agree with Bill, an expert in this field.

You would only need to use a phosphoric acid-based metal conditioner if you lived in a swamp (high relative humidity)... so floorada.


Always go with advice from an expert.

Now that's a treat

I think Pete should be nominated for a Nobel Prize...

Just wondering what the price of gas is around the country today.

Now the V.I. chines in. This thread is finished.

Valid point, I totally agree with you

Merry Christmas All.

 

Burn    

DO NOT engage the troll, its all Troll$hit folks.

The entire video can be found here

Thanks for not letting me down guys. This is the SAAC Forum that I remember.