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Just that. I normally don't post a lot here, certainly not advertisement stuff as I'm normally too busy to bother with "drumming up work."
I'm just really proud of this project.

A member here sent me a 3259 which had been in a garage fire.
Honestly when I first got it, I was unsure there would be much I could do for it.

Pictures below

I give you and all involved a ton of credit, doing it right is an insane amount of work.
Hope the rest goes well without too many snags.

Also, just to clarify, would these adjustments apply equally to an FE or 289/302? And for flat tappet as well as solid rollers?

Not Doug, but clearance is clearance.
You can always recheck hot to see how much it has changed if curious. Valve lash can be a tuning tool as well (although a fairly minor one)

Gets real interesting setting up an aluminum block, aluminum head engine 😂

I always set cold for the reasons you mention.
At work I regularly do valve adjustments on 16 cylinder two stroke industrial engines, it would be impossible to have all of them evenly warm as it often takes several hours. Many engines do not have hot settings due to this.

I was not telling the original poster he was wrong, simply providing an alternative method that I think is better.
As far as precision, professional methods yield professional results.

I'm old but I'm always willing to learn.  Please explain why EOIC is better than adjusting when both E and I are fully closed at TDC.

Look at this diagram:
https://images.app.goo.gl/ZBgzqPABU2vHypLMA

You are trying to set via tdc when the lifters are between the lobes. This is fine for a very mild stock engine. With performance cam separation angle, overlap, and more duration make it to where the lifter edge can reduce clearance for either valve at tdc.
By setting via EOIC you are setting on he base circle instead of the other end, thus assuring lifter is fully down.
Sure it is harder to rotate the engine so many times, but doing one valve in order makes it very hard to miss one.

I second EOIC that's how I was taught and my turd still runs.

It works so well because it assures the cam being on the base of the lobe. With a performance cam, TDC method is imperfect.
The only time I use TDC is when a fresh engine needs a basic valve setting prior to cam break in. In that scenario, perfect setting is less important than keeping the break in lube from wiping off.
After cam break in, reset via EOIC.

Either way, I applaud your creativity. Good luck, and thanks for sharing.

Or set via EOIC (my preference, as it is foolproof)
Or get some timing tape, would be a little more accurate as your method allows for stacking of imperfect measurements.

Hey Keith, can you provide a link, phone number, business name... or whatever for Drew Pojedinac. I'd like to save this high recommendation for future reference, but a quick Google search didn't find this guy.

Thanks,
Steve

Hi Steve. You can pm me on this forum.
Even if you want to do the rebuild yourself, hit me up with any questions or issues, be happy to help.
That said, take the advice above and go through the ignition first. A large amount of carb issues are actually weak ignition problems.

This is what a vintage intake looks like when it is new. Notice the dull somewhat porous texture. How you get to this point is the challenge.

That is pretty much what blasting it with Garnet looks like.

About two year ago I bought a dozen different medias to try on a dozen intakes, trying to chase that look.

I clean with carb or brake cleaner and soda blast them.
Glassbeads do leave it too shiny, and there is the possibility of the beads embeding.

If really really nasty, I will blast with garnet and reblast with soda.

Scott, have you tried any if the newly made factory style adjustables?
I have seen them for sale in the $250 range and am too scared to try them out on any engine I like.

Nothing wrong with factory adjustables.
I run them with POP stands, spacers, crane adjusters.
.615 lift

Well..... I didn't have anything better to do 😀


Just trying to keep kids off EFI.

Allstate has some good folks. I've never seen their restores (which is a good sign, lol).
I buy a lot of parts from Jim at allstate.

List 1850-1 has the correct throttle shafts but you need to install the trunnions. I make them on the lathe for psuedo reproductions. You also need to drill a hole to install the trunnions in the lower position. Both trunnions low for low riser linkage, one high one low for MR linkage.

"Most" 1850-2's have universal throttle shafts. You can use with the medium riser linkage and the predrilled hole, but you cannot have them progressive, they will be much close to 1:1.
This isn't a deal breaker, but obviously lacks some of the benefits of the factory setup.