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I have such a tool maybe this will work for you?
https://lsmproducts.com/collections/valve-spring-pressure-testers

@Bob which thread would be informative when it comes to this?

Yes I have seen one in real and you can see it that it's not from the 60s. But as Bob said a nice addition.

What I dont understand after having far over 300 Mustangs that the most unrestored ones I had where black undercoated and just on some edges and corners red what I think was more because the black paint faded away.I know the red oxide was on all Mustangs as it was the base/ primer/ rust protection but how is it coming that the most mustangs have the pretty much similar black protection? Did Ford coated some of these black for the rust belt areas or really the dealerships? I only wonder because a lot of the Mustangs I know have a very similar black coating.

I know a guy who is selling a C7ZX original intake that is really nice modified. I f you are interested please let me know.

Very nice to hear that under the circumstances everything is ok with both of you. I like your way to look forward. Thats a very good thing. I wish you all the best.

Awesome that sounds like a good family event then.

Pocono would be nice but what is Kalihari? I loved the SAAC Meet in Wisconsin at Road of America. Nice weather and wide open space, nice track.

Prayers send out that everybody is ok. It looks brutal.

The damage is easily way over 100.000k I would say if you make it right more close to 175.000-200.000$ depending on which parts are damaged. I had a similar repair going on here on a 68 GT350 and the front end in original/ NOS or perfect repros was really hard to find and very expensive. It good that the car has a roll cage if you see the pictures it helped.

Yes but that was not the only problem. And I would have the correct hood for it and a lot of other parts. But even that wouldn't be enough to bring it back to more correct.

i was there my highest bid was 110.000 Euro and this was the absolute limit for me. Online Bidder paid 120.000 Euro. I inspected it for 3 hours and I'm very fine that I didn't won as the 110.000 bid from me was also maybe a bit over what I thought to be ok but it was there and ready to go so I set my limit higher than I normally would. I wish the new owner a good time with it.

https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/mu25/lots/r0003-1967-shelby-gt350/

Thats the car when it sold for 110.000$ in 2011 at Bonhams

https://cars.bonhams.com/auction/23425/lot/25/1967-shelby-gt350-fastback/

Congrats Vern, I wish you and your family all the best. And roadtrips with Mustang and so many kids are not easy, I know what you mean. I also take the F250 with 6 seats the most of the times.

@Bob I really would like to know which fuel pumps are the right ones for a 67 GT500 as I hear different stories. I think there were 2 different ones depending on the build date. But did really the very late build 67 GT500 had the CARTER logo instead of the CARburTER Logo?

What is for sure:
All pumps had the 5/16" inlet nipple.   

In the build sheet the part number is: C6OE 9350 C

The flange number on the 67 GT500 fuel pumps were 3909-S early and 4314-S for later 67 production.

All of the 1967 Shelby GT500 used the carter pump button top with the canister marked with red Autolite on a white canister not Fomoco

Yes definitely a 66 T-Bird Pump would work. Good luck with the new one and please test the real psi it will make just to make sure everything is ok, the quality sometimes is not perfect of the newer pumps you can buy. There are some nice pumps out there which are close to an original one but with better internals and for more hp. You also can check for the better versions of Carter Pumps as usually they have 2-3 versions of the same pump depending on your hp and use. But always make sure you dont need an fuel pressure regulator as some pumps require one.

not really the part numbers on the back are different and there also very small differences between them in the face sometimes.