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Follow up to my original post. I pulled the tach and sent it to Rocketman as one of you suggested. He did the conversion promptly. The tach face was in good condition so only the internals were converted. I was able to clean up many wiring connections that had been previously done to try to make the tach work without a tach adapter and later when the tach adapter was installed. With the Rocketman conversion, there is no need for the tach adapter and the wiring for the MSD 6A is straightforward. Tach works fine, and it feels good to know the wiring behind the dash is now well done. I suspect this summer will tell me if the MSD distributor is prone to condensation pooling and subsequent failure. Thanks to all for the advice and guidance.
Charlie D

Bob I wish I could blame a PO, but we have had this car since new. So I can only regret the days when I was too busy working to pay much attention to the work that was done on it to keep it going. Now, I am paying for that lack of attention!

I have tracked down the two "tach" leads that are forward of the firewall. One was part of the three wire connector that had the temp gauge and a black wire that was dead headed, which I suspect was done at Shelby since they did not use the factory Ford oil pressure indicator. The other tach lead came separately thru the firewall and was the only wire exiting at that point. Both test 12V. I can reverse where they are connected and the tach behaves the same, goes to the peg and drops back. Further reading and some of your posts indicate that if the tach fails, your ignition is dead. This car starts with the tach leads connected in either configuration. I looked under the dash as best I could without removing the seat and see a three way wire connector that has leads suspiciously looking like they are part of the tach wiring. I am guessing that the tach has been bypassed as part of the ignition by this configuration. I should have added in the first mail that the tach WAS working and jsut recently failed. So, now the question changes to how do you know if your tach is toast? Should I consider rewiring to the original thru the tach for ignition or is that really subject to failure? Last, just throw in the towel and have the tach redone to more modern specs?--yeah probably what I should do but need a coax to spend the $$. 
As an aside, some of your posts have indicated problems with MSD ignition systems. I have gone the route of throwing parts at my MSD system and it is not pleasant. I live in Maryland where the summers are very humid and that may be a contributing factor. I just replaced the magnetic pick up in my current , 2nd, distributor. Car ran, then stopped cold, just like a failed 6A box. This time the box checked out OK, the coil checked OK, opened the cap of the distributor and it was part filled with water. Condensate I suspect. Have never had that problem with a distributor before. Any more problems with this system and I will switch to no MSD box and a Pertronix distributor. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks again for all your suggestions.
Charlie D

I am installing an MSD tach adapter to the original current sensing tach.  There is a 3 pin connector at the firewall that has red w/green stripe, red, and black with white stripe or vice versa. They are pretty hard to read. On the engine side of the connector are black, black, and red. One of the black wires goes to the temp sensor and the temp gauge works. The red is( I think) ignition positive. Is the other black wire the trigger wire for the tach? I have a mess of spliced wires as I am tracking down some old work that was done for me years ago. At this time the tach will swing from 0 to peg and drop back to 0 and stay there. Hoping once I wire this up per the MSD current sensing tach instructions all will work. Second question: I read on the Pantera forum where some of these adapters have failed, one report of fire. Anyone have information? As always, thanks for your advice.
Charlie D

I finally have the Robb Mc starter installed and it is a significant improvement. Cranks faster on initial start up and no more slow cranking when hot so the heat sink issue is gone. Like many of us, I am an old shade tree mechanic, so challenges are part of the enjoyment. I attempted to do the install myself with the car up on jack stands. There was no way I could even feel the top bolt much less see it to begin to take the original starter off. My car has headers and maybe that made reaching around even more difficult. I resorted to a buddy who has made a living building hot rods to do the install. His young 30 something year old helper with long, thin, arms and flexible wrists did the job helped by some grunting and profanity even with the benefit of working under a lift. I'm glad its done. It was worth the effort and the $ spent.

OK. Computerworks is a Director so we can be certain the dates are June 17-19, right? Anyone on the Board know when the hotel information and event schedule will be available to SAAC members? Really want to be able to plan ahead. Thanks.
Charlie D

Thanks for the responses. I ordered a RobbMc starter. Will let you know the results when install is complete.
Charlie D

My starter is tired. It is the original starter. I have checked and cleaned the connections, battery is good. Turns engine over slow on initial start and even slower on a hot start. I have headers on and they cleared the stock starter. My car is a C6 automatic. Suppliers list several aftermarket high torque starters and "improved" stock starters that are less prone to heat sink. Have you replaced your starter and what advice do you have? Thanks as always.
Charlie D

Indy will be a great venue! Putting it on the calendar now and this year I am going to jump on the hotel reservations early. Shelby running good now, so no excuse to be driving a Volvo this time!

Hats off to everyone who worked to organize and manage SAAC 44. That was a great event. Always something interesting to do, see, people to meet. The enthusiasm was contagious. Great job everyone!
Charlie D

No luck getting it finished. Too many loose ends to risk the trip. I'll be there, probably the only one in a Volvo wagon. Maybe I should still do a parade lap! See you all there.
Charlie D

Whether my car will be ready is coming down to the wire. Transmission still needs to be bolted in and then test drive. This will be first trip in this car for over 30 years. Some shakedown! I plan on leaving early, 7:30 AM (cooler). Anyway, I leave from Arnold, do the Balto Beltway to 40 (gets me off the beltway sooner), then connect to 70. I don't like the PA turnpike, so I am planning on taking 68 to Frostburg, then head to Pittsburgh. Thought I got a last minute room at Doubletree, but didn't. Now at the Hilton Garden Inn. If Shelby not feeling good, still coming in something else. Looking forward to meeting everyone.
Charlie D

Charles Dankmeyer is an original owner and will be attending -- 67 GT500.

It was good meeting Cory at cars and coffee Annapolis this past Sunday. If you have not seen his car, it is beautiful! I plan on Wednesday to Saturday, leaving the car show early afternoon to head home. I am not a track person, but would like to do a parade lap when it is available. I am also looking at participating in the other events like the tour to the airport and poker run. I am assuming there will be some of us coming from different parts of Maryland, so maybe we could set a place and time to meet maybe near Hagerstown or Hancock? If someone has a route to Pittsburgh that keeps the PA TPKE to a minimum, that suits me just fine. Looking forward to meeting everyone and enjoying this event.
Charlie D

I finished the carb switch, so here's what I ended up doing.  I bought a pair of Holley 4160 600 CFM carbs, one with an electric choke and one without. These are aluminum single fuel inlets with vacuum secondaries so they mimic the originals in function and are slightly lower CFM. I took the advice for the 1/4" phenolic spacer and related hardware to minimize the vapor lock issue. The new carbs come with a fuel fitting that sits sideways along side the fuel bowl, so that needed to be replaced with a straight out the side fitting in order to use my current fuel lines. The rear, manual choke, carb has a large vacuum port that points forward between the two carbs. That port is in the way of the throttle linkage, so it was removed, tapped, and plugged with 1/8 NPT plug. The base of the carb is also shaped forward where that vacuum port is and that forward shape is in the way of the flat mounting bracket for the throttle linkage. So the bracket had to be modified for clearance. I cut the bracket to mount on each side of the carb with no center section. It is still solid, but the alignment is critical to prevent binding. The next fiddly piece is the new carbs float adjustment screws are round and tall, so they interfere with the air cleaner base. I tried a 1/2" spacer, but it was too tall for the hood to close--touched. I made a spacer about 1/4" thick from some neoprene rubber and that allowed good clearance. Start up was uneventful, ran smoother than I can remember. The idle was much too high and it took a little fiddling between the idle adjustments on the carbs and the linkage to get that right.
I am now ready for a road test when the weather turns dry and will know how the vacuum secondaries work under load and if they need any adjustment. Overall, I am pleased with what I have right now. Wonderful not to have any leaky carbs! I figure I will send the original carbs out for a rebuild while that can still be accomplished and store them for someone who wants to go to a fully original setup. Thanks again to all of you who gave me part numbers and suggestions on this project, they were invaluable. Couple of photos attached.
Charlie D