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hi per Tims request here is an early autolite dashpot photo

Not to change the topic, but is that a picture of 0001?  if so I would have thought the hood would have the bent edges and the headlight buckets would be beveled.....unless that is just a bad picture angle

The first couple months of production didn't use the common '64.5' hood with beveled edges.  Those early hoods look like a normal '65 hood, although there are understructure features that are different than '65 hoods.

I knew you would know the explanation on that. 

Not to change the topic, but is that a picture of 0001?  if so I would have thought the hood would have the bent edges and the headlight buckets would be beveled.....unless that is just a bad picture angle

I second the recommendation for a full tank.  I also have put gas line antifreeze in the tank along with fuel stabilizer.  I know some people feel compelled to start a car up a time or two during the winter, but I've been told by a few people over the years whom I trust that this is not required and if the car is not brought up to full operating temperature, the resulting condensation is not good for the car.  If you can't leave it alone, consider putting the battery in it once or twice over the winter and cranking it a few times to get the oil pressure up and the oil circulating, then take the battery back out.  I have been storing at least one or two cars a year this way for almost 50 years and I've never once had an issue.  I'm also in the northeast and likely a little further north than you.  I've just put the freshly charged battery back in the car in the spring and they have always started right up.

Very helpful.  I have all my cars on tenders, i did think about running straight gas through the carb,  before storing as well. Although not sure if this will make a difference. 

Question for the group.  I did a search but didn't find specifics on what I was looking for.  If its out there can some one point me to the post? 

My car wont be driven through the winter months (Northeast).  Specific to the engine, what should be done to it to ensure a problem free spring start up.  I will have the ability to start it but not on a consistent basis.  Lastly the car will be stored in an insulated, but non-heated garage. 

Thank you

Kevin

Put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and change the oil before storage. If a unheated unattended building then I would consider one of the car jacket carbags to zip the car up in so that you don't have to worry about rodents. I used them for years with success.  You can unzip it to start the car up if are planning on starting it every couple works and letting warm up which would be ideal.  If not planning on starting then then take the battery out and store it safely someplace where you can put it on a battery tender. Just a few that are top of my list .I will let others add theirs.

Bob Thank you for the quick reply.  I do have car jacket which I will use.  Would you suggest a full tank or half tank of fuel; many schools of thought there.   

Question for the group.  I did a search but didn't find specifics on what I was looking for.  If its out there can some one point me to the post? 

My car wont be driven through the winter months (Northeast).  Specific to the engine, what should be done to it to ensure a problem free spring start up.  I will have the ability to start it but not on a consistent basis.  Lastly the car will be stored in an insulated, but non-heated garage. 

Thank you

Kevin

Two things: I am missing the latch/clasp that locks the arm rest. Anyone know where I can get one and can I get a picture of what they look like? Also my seam has let go. Anyone recommend someone who is good at repairs/sewing these seems. Thanks! -John

Trust me. Good centers a lot harder to find than restorable dishes

So true

What are you trying to do?  Just restore your original?  or have something that looks original but will support bluetooth?  You could have it converted to bluetooth.....and not change appearance.

many do this.  Give Instrument Specialties a call.  They are in RI   https://www.instrument-specialties.com/

This car was part of a collection of two that went up for sale on Craigslist last summer.  The car for sale today, was originally an automatic and was converted to a four speed.  The other car in the collection was not in great shape as I recall.  Also not sure if its the same seller

I've had a great luck with a product called Spray Nine.  It is produced in a Marine formula and non Marine formulas.  I've used both

curious what is the difference between marine and non marine formula? I haven't come across a product labeled that way but I am not into boats like I am cars.

Bob usually found in a place like West Marine, i believe it has some mold fighting chemicals.  I use it on my boat, which has an all white interior.  It sparkles after its done

I've had a great luck with a product called Spray Nine.  It is produced in a Marine formula and non Marine formulas.  I've used both

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-S-1964-1965-1966-KELSEY-HAYES-STEEL-RIM-WHEEL-15-FORD-MERCURY-THUNDERBIRD/223921974059?item=223921974059&pageci=e0cd7311-28c1-4252-9df1-6892c527d5b6&redirect=mobile

Interesting wheel, looks to be a k2/8,  this wheel is a 15 X 6.5

It has the larger center opening also...

if that is the case then maybe it isnt a k2/8...maybe a 9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-S-1964-1965-1966-KELSEY-HAYES-STEEL-RIM-WHEEL-15-FORD-MERCURY-THUNDERBIRD/223921974059?item=223921974059&pageci=e0cd7311-28c1-4252-9df1-6892c527d5b6&redirect=mobile

Interesting wheel, looks to be a k2/8,  this wheel is a 15 X 6.5

I am wondering if there is a change over during 67 model year? Thanks

I have a set of wheels that have 66 stamped on the hub, identical to the 67s pictured, with the KW and month stamp...those still have 4 slots and 3 knubs. not sure i have ever seen a wheel with 3 slots.