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The shift rods and tabs that mount the rods to the transmission are also different between the Top Loader and the T-10. I removed a Hurst and replaced with an OEM shifter on a Carryover with a T-10 a few years ago. As I recall, a little time searching on the web will provide images of the differences. I know this is considered heresy, but the car shifts better with the original shifter and rods in my opinion than with the Hurst. And the reverse lock-out is a plus. But I do miss the T handle.

Search Hagerty Marketplace for the auction. Aluminum body and aluminum 427.

Thanks Bob. Very helpful.

Our car is a Carryover #074, which came equipped with Cragar wheels. Would you let me know what the factory finishes on the two halves of the Kelsey Hayes brake calipers should be?

Thanks for confirming the part numbers. I saw several different part numbers in several different searches and wasn't sure what part numbers came on the original shocks and what might be aftermarket. This is very helpful.

Hello, I've searched and have not found the part numbers for Koni shocks originally installed on Shelby's. What are the correct part numbers stamped in the shocks front and rear?
     Also, I understand the original shocks have a date code. How would I decode the date? Thanks in advance.

Since you mention you want to go back to the factory exhaust manifolds and you want something that looks more stock, I thought I would mention the complete system that Branda Performance offers. Installation with the stock manifolds and H-pipe requires minimal tweaking, the system is the stock configuration and the sound is not obnoxious. I have had this system on our GT500 for about 7 years now and still looks good (not rusty). 

I am copy/pasting a post from a few months ago when I replaced the fuel pump on our 1967 GT500. To summarize, I found the CARTER brand fuel pump as Bob mentions worked perfect. Your part # will be different than mine due to the fuel filter. I hope this helps:



I'm posting the outcome of the fuel pump replacement, hopefully for the benefit of future searchers needing to replace their fuel pump.

        First, I need to point out that our car is very nice, but not nut-and-bolt concours so I did not feel the need to spend big $$ on a concours correct fuel pump.
        When searching the local auto-parts stores, the vehicle I entered for the search was a 1966 Thunderbird with the 428 engine.
        The first purchase was a Delphi fuel pump that worked well. A little too well. Following Kent's direction, I was able to take out a fuel pressure testing kit for the local O'Reilly's and thanks to Kent, discovered this pump was putting out nearly 16 psi. The specs are fuel pump pressure at 500 rpm, 352, 390 and 427 ... 4.5-6.5 psi. There was fuel coming out the top of the bowls and whew, the smell of the rich fuel mixture was overwhelming.
         The second purchase was a Carquest fuel pump part #3541143. When reading the description on the websites, it states that the Carquest pumps are engineered to the specs of the Carter fuel pumps. I had also read that if possible, get a fuel pump Hecho in Mexico and not one made in China. The Carquest was made in Mexico so I was optimistic. However, the psi was still a touch high putting out 8-8.5 psi.
         Not satisfied, I contacted our local speed shop here in Denver, On-Track Performance and he did some searching and said, "I can get you a Carter fuel pump. It will be here in a couple of days. It says it will deliver 5-6 psi." Getting pretty good at installing fuel pumps on a big block with power steering, I popped in the Carter fuel pump, held my breath and bingo - a steady 6 psi. The part number on the Carter fuel pump is M4008. It is also made in Mexico. Like the other three fuel pumps, it comes with the brass fitting to connect the hard fuel line and two gaskets. Searching on-line, the Carter M4008 is readily available from the likes of JEGS, Summit Racing, Rock Auto, etc for $40-$65. Let me repeat, this is not a concours correct fuel pump, but one that should have our car running smoothly and provide just the right amount of fuel pressure to keep those Holley dual fours happy in the coming years.
Jeff

Please contact me if interested and arrange for a qualified Shelby expert to perform a Pre Purchase Inspection. In my opinion, this is a great car for someone looking for a Carryover they can drive and enjoy.
Jeff (720) 260-0258

When disconnecting the brake lines from the Master Cylinder, use a Flare Wrench. Especially if those brake lines have not been removed in some time. The flare wrench will reduce the likelihood of rounding the fittings on the brake lines.
     While you have access to get the MC and booster out, it's a good time to replace the rear spark plug too.

On our street driven '67, I installed brake pads front and rear from Cobra Automotive and highly recommend.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/d/pomona-1966-shelby-gt350-steering-wheel/7914974531.html

Not mine, but it may be of interest? The center cap looks to be original with the part number but I look forward to comments.

It's very cool to scroll through the photos posted for the auction and look at the details. I noticed the air cleaner lid does not say "COBRA.". This car seems so well preserved and unmolested that I'm guessing this is the air cleaner lid that came on the car when new. Was this common? I'm not criticizing the car at all, in fact it is fabulous, but just curious about the lid.

I have a question for the judges. The seller touts the following awards in the Mecum description:

The only 1965/1966 Shelby that has ever won both Shelby American Automobile Club (SAAC) Premiere and Mustang Club of America (MCA) Thoroughbred Gold awards; also won the MCA Authenticity Award (only open to Silver or Gold Thoroughbred Division winners)

Would a car with the wrong engine color and no documentation receive these awards?

Yes, Carryover engines were black.
Here is a super good reference covering the details of the Carryovers:
https://carryovergt350.com/