We have implemented a Photo Gallery for hosting images right here on SAACFORUM. Check the How-To in News from HQ

Main Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - The Going Thing

They're billet 17X7 one-off to replicate the 1967 hubcaps. They are not the legendary-Drake wheels Illustrated. They're 3K a set.
Bill at Mansfield Mustang is a great help and source on FE components. 
Well, who says cats don't like Shelbys. I caught him red-handed trying to steal my car! 8)
I would be glad to post pictures, Bob.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on August 06, 2020, 05:47:38 PM
Quote from: The Going Thing on August 06, 2020, 04:49:05 PM
Bob, not to impugn on your knowledge, but unless Max has changed fasteners for the intake in the last 14 years they were EXACTLY what came off my engine. I know he is running out of some sources, so that may be true currently.
When they first came out they did have bolts with the correct markings although slightly different in appearance. That was 25 plus years ago. In your case I suppose it has a lot to do with what mfg marks were on the bolts you took off your intake and what you got from AMK. ;) I have seen AMK intake bolts a grade 5 with no other mark . I have seen some with a grade 5 marking and a P in the middle . I have seen others that I didn't commit to memory because they were non original markings . Needless to say but I will, yes they have changed to various versions within the last 14 years. AMK bolt supply and consequently mfg marks on the bolts  have been slowly changing to more generic bolts for years. Don't get me wrong I think AMK is a boon to car restoration but it is prudent to be aware of the changes.
Bob, it's why I stated it as I did. I assumed there had been some change since I purchased my kits. The only issue I had heard of is the bolts being shorter in the new sets.
I stayed with a factory color offered too. It makes sense because of what it is.  It's not a restomod because of a wheel change, which are also factory style 10 spoke rims in 17. It makes sense because of what the car is.  Many of us DRIVE our cars. I do at least twice a week when I'm home. 
There are a couple day two modifications, either they are for power or safety.
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Lowering springs ?
August 06, 2020, 04:52:55 PM
Quote from: mikeh on August 06, 2020, 10:36:26 AM
Roller spring perches:
Mike, I am running the roller perches too. The lowered car with the Arning drop should have them.
Bob, not to impugn on your knowledge, but unless Max has changed fasteners for the intake in the last 14 years they were EXACTLY what came off my engine. I know he is running out of some sources, so that may be true currently.
The Lounge / Re: Pure Venom
August 06, 2020, 03:18:10 AM
Someone had a bad trip.  ;D  Glad to see someone rescued it.
The Lounge / Re: Clean electric vehicles? I think not.
August 06, 2020, 03:16:33 AM
Quote from: 2112 on August 06, 2020, 12:39:38 AM
Grab the latest issue of TIME. I just read thru it.

It is no longer a journalistic endeavor.
Pure propaganda and leftist trash. I agree. Don't use them for TP. The cuts burn.
Yes, Kent. It matched what came off my car.
Quote from: FL SAAC on August 05, 2020, 07:40:08 PM
For the inner bolts use ARP

Everything internally is ARP on my car, including the cam gear bolt. I even run ARP head bolts and rocker shaft bolts. Don't run studs on an FE in a mustang/shelby. You won't get the heads off.
Quote from: QuickSilverShelby on August 05, 2020, 11:02:16 PM
Paint your car Blue.  Don't go with Slime Green, you'll always regret it.


My sentiments exactly.  However, I am trying not to stir the pot too much. The old people get upset if they miss their 1630 dinner hour at Denny's.  They have to pay full price when they're late.  ;D
Quote from: JWH on August 05, 2020, 07:21:58 PM
Just to clarify, the "double-nut" method I refer to in post #15 above concerns installing the studs.
> remove the two stock intake manifold bolts that attach the fuel log
> install two studs in their place and finger tighten
> spin a not onto the stud
> spin a second nut onto the stud and with a wrench, tighten top nut clockwise and the lower counter-clockwise so that they "lock" against each other.
> with the nuts "locked," you should be able to exert enough force on the top nut to tighten the stud in place in the head. This is to keep it from backing out over time.
> remove the nuts and install the spacer, fuel log, spacer and nut as recommended
I assume you may have bought some of the studded intake bolts that were used for the cars with shaker air cleaners.  If you isolated the studs with the phenolic washers on both sides it would be the same situation as the factory longer intake bolts with the wahers.
Bob, the tab elimination and getting the hot heater hoses off would be simple. You can find a repo fuel log for about 50.00.  Summit has spacers if that's your choice of routes. I did find the Phenolic spacers held up to the 32 Lbs torque spec fine.