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The version with "Shelby" in place of the "Cobra" was made after car production ended. Carroll was trying to make some money. He did.

All I have seen for 1968 up are the three hole version regardless of transmission. As Bob says they can't be seen once installed and the three hole version may be what you need anyway.

Dead Nuts On is where I buy water pump rebuilding tools and supplies. They will also rebuild yours if you don't want to learn. https://www.deadnutson.com/1967-shelby-gt500-water-pumps/

The page also sys this - "Starting in 68 they eliminated all the other versions as there was no need for them because the -F was needed to clear the new machining protocol and it still fit all the older engines as well".

So in 1968 model year all FE's regardless of transmission used the exact same plate.

It was common in 1967 to have "SPEC" in place of the date code on 1967 High performance cars on the center section of the rear axle. Ford and Shelby did not care what transmission was used. The rear ends came from the same place. 

Buying Ford intake manifolds you won't have any problems. The price will quickly fade. Buy once, cry once.

By far Ford factory intake manifolds may make you tear up slightly not cry. I can say that I have not ever bought a factory intake manifold that I lost money on.

The problem is you can pay too much and then the intake won't be a good deal. Knowing your vendor can pay off. Particularly if you are buying to resell.

Scot knows how to make a reproduction part - you can't tell his parts from the assembly line ones.

Buying Ford intake manifolds you won't have any problems. The price will quickly fade. Buy once, cry once.

The reproduction caps are sort of not correct. They have the Autolite marking in the same spot as the black caps. The correct OEM caps are a little different.

I would use original parts. The exception would be the tie rod rubbers from NPD - those are pretty decent. Dan Chock may have original idler arm and bracket if yours is not rebuildable.

But what does it mean when stated that "Often "carb problems" are electrical in nature."

Just that. Drew mentioned that the distributor initial advance may have changed. I would make damn sure the distributor is correct before I claimed I had a carb problem.

I used to take care of a large car collection. I rebuilt carburetors and blew out fuel lines for many years. Then Stabil came on the market and my boss says try it.

Bottom line Stabil only works for 12 months on the original tank of gas. After that you are pushing your luck and in my case I had to rebuild a whole lot more carbs and blow out a whole lot more fuel lines before I convinced the fellow that draining the gas was the easiest and cheapest solution to the problem.

 

Something as simple as initial timing changing could cause an otherwise perfect running carb to become a basket case.

Drew

This is true. Often "carb problems" are electrical in nature.

Some cars have the mount for a washer bottle but they were originally equipped with the plastic reservoir - it helps to know which type it originally came with. Often the bag mount is present and it was flattened to install the plastic reservoir.

Respectfully - On San Jose built 67's?   Don't recall ever seeing one of those - have a picture of an example? Love to see it and the date the car was completed on.

I don't have a San Jose 67 in my shop this minute to photograph but I have a Dearborn example. As far as I know San Jose followed instructions from Dearborn.

Some cars have the mount for a washer bottle but they were originally equipped with the plastic reservoir - it helps to know which type it originally came with. Often the bag mount is present and it was flattened to install the plastic reservoir.