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On the cars with parchment interior, the metal trim that hides the gaps between the interior panels on a 1967 Shelby, is the color gloss or matte. PO had painted the interior all black and I'm putting it back to parchment. I believe the fiberglass panels have a flat look to them based on the info here on the forum. Fingers crossed I hope to attend SAAC 50...

What is the consensus/opinion on using some sort of a heat/sound mat like Dynamat,Killmat...etc on a street driven Shelby Mustang, 4 speed big block car. I have both boots on the shifter and I'm ready install new carpeting. Thoughts?

Reaching out to the experts, I believe I have the original set of rims on my 1967 Shelby mustang and I noted that the Lugnut hole seems to mushroom out because of the current lugnuts that were used on the car, is this correct? (yes I know the tires are old and they will be replaced when car is running)

Thank you for your help

#504
Terry

I'm repainting all the interior panels on my 1967 Shelby from Black to parchment which is original to the car (PO painted everything black) so my question after doing some research on this site and the internet, I'm coming up empty on what people do for the upper panels that has the venting/grills. Are you removing the grills and restoring them and using the Easyoff and cleaning separately or restoring with the vents installed and just taping off around the metal? If you removing them, best way to re-install the vents onto the interior panel? I believe the aftermarket ones are plastic so I don't want to go down that path if I don't have to.

1967 GT 500 #504 - Moss Green with Parchment interior

Thank you in advanced.

Terry

First I would like to thank everybody for the info on the two piece nose for the 1967 Shelby's. It help me a lot in getting the front nose squared away. From the enlarging the holes in back of the inboard light buckets to the color or lack of color on the rivets.

So I thought I would start another thread on the two piece nose because I have more questions about detail of the 2 piece nose and I didn't want to clog up the info on on the first thread unless the moderator deems the following questions are OK to move to the original post on two piece noses.

So here are my observations and questions and note I've researched on this site about more detail on the two piece nose and also reviewed the 1967 Shelby GT250/GT500 Master assembly manual but still have questions.

In my original post I thought the vertical bracket that holds the inboard lights was split and someone welded the two pieces back together but cleaning everything up, it was not split in two but welded at one time to the triangle brace on the horizontal bar that the fiberglass nose piece rivets to. Based on the pictures on the original thread, it should have not been welded to that piece, correct?

I ordered the AMK rivet kit for the Shelby nose and it comes with 15 rivets, Where do all the rivets go, my nose only has 3, two on/in opening of the upper grill and one on the lower valence  holding the two pieces of the nose together.

On the early 2 piece slanted grills, was there a U-shaped rubber used on the edge of the grills?

The finish of the black paint on the on all brackets I assume was a satin black? Gloss or satin on the headlight buckets that hold the bulbs?

Again, thank you for your help.

Terry

#504 1967 Shelby GT 500

Hello All,
I have a question about the stock carbs that were used on 67 GT 500 Shelby Mustangs, what are the advantages running stock VS other carbs. The reason I asked is when I bought my car it came with Holley 1850-2's that need to be rebuilt and knowing the cost for the re-issue ones being sold by Tony Branda and original ones VS the carbs I have, what are advantages between the three. My car is close to stock except the paint (Very vintage early 70's metallic scallops on the hood) and the engine, a 427 side-oiler with survival motorsports heads so kinda of a "Day 2" vibe so the carburetors are not high on my list at this time  but would like to know if stock linkages and all the other items that get attached to the carbs can stay stock.
The engine has just been built and the carbs are the last thing I need to get ready for the run stand.

Thank you

Terry
1967 GT500 #504

I'm ready to install the clips in the engine bay that holds the wiring and after reviewing the Electrical assembly line booklet I was hoping to see pictures or a better diagram on how the wiring was routed and what clips were used where. The PO had drilled about 200 holes in the engine compartment (putting metal wire clamps every 4 inches)  and in the process of changing the engine compartment back to black, (It seems every car I have I have to change the color back to stock, Mustang to black, Tiger from black to body color...ugh) I welded up most or all the holes and looking at other cars and taking pictures  at SAAC at Sears Point this past year I still wasn't sure. I have a running early 1967 6 cylinder mustang available to reference but I know there are differences, especially with the center hi-beam headlights and the Tach wiring. Any help would be most appreciated.


Thank you in advanced


Terry


Shelby Mustang GT 500 #504