Topics

I am looking for more original looking boot snaps than the ones I purchased.  These are swaged into the interior rear quarter panels in a convertible Mustang.  The ones I purchased would certainly work but they look very different from the originals.

Thank you,

Corey

I am about to recover the quarter trim panels for my 1964.5 convertible.  Has anyone done this and have tips.  Conceptually seems easy but am afraid the reality will be tricky.

Corey

I have a friend who has a dream of owning a Shelby.  He has never owned one and knows nothing about them other than he really likes them.  He reached out to me about one he found online at Classic Auto Mall.  It is number 02678.

First off does anyone have any knowledge of this car.  I have a registry and have read that but beyond the registry is there any tribal knowledge on this car?

Secondly, I am trying to decipher the buck tag and have not been able to find a decoder for the buck tags.  Can anyone help?

Thank you,

Corey

I am replacing the steering components on my 68 GT350 and just wondering if there is a preferred orientation of the cotter pins?  Do they bend up over the end of the threaded stud or side to side around the castellated nut?

If they are supposed to bend up over the end of the threaded stud do you just bend one tang of the cotter pin and leave the other straight or what do you do with the other tang?

Thank you,

Corey

I am doing some work on the steering on my 1968 GT350 with PS and without A/C.  I would like to replace my inner and outer tie rods and the adjustment sleeve while I am at it.  NPD sells concours replacements for 65-66 but apparently not 67 and above.

I looked at WCCC and they have repros (although they are currently out of stock on the inners), does anyone have experience with theirs and can tell me how accurate they are?

Any suggestions on where to get the best repros or better yet nice rebuilt originals?

Thank you,

Corey

I had purchased 2 Holley carbs to make 1.  I am selling all the pieces for the second carb.  The baseplate is not correct.  It is a more modern baseplate.  The main body had two holes that were weld repaired extremely nicely.  To the best of my knowledge all the parts are there but I can not guarantee it.

But the body and the metering blocks have all the correct markings for the 1968 Holley 4 speed carb for the GT350.

I am asking $200 plus shipping for it all.

As hard as I try I can not add a picture.  Would be happy to email any pictures to anyone interested.

Corey

I am wondering what the minimum length of enclosed car trailer I could get my 68 GT350 Fastback in.  Specifically would it fit in a 16' trailer?

Corey

I have a 1968 GT350 4 speed with the Holley carburetor.  I am reinstalling my freshly rebuilt motor and rebuilt carburetor.  This is the first time I have had the correct carb on the car sense I have owned her.  Everything is running really well but I felt the idle was high.  I can manually depress the dashpot and the idle settles right where it should be and stays there.  But when I come off the dash pot it returns to a high idle.  I removed the dash pot and it runs great and idles perfectly.  What is the point of the dashpot and is mine just too stiff?

Thank you for any help/suggestions.

Corey

There is a countersunk tapped hole in the bell housing just above the clutch fork as pictured below.  What if anything should go in this hole?

Thank you,

Corey

Thank you Tim,  I think I ordered the correct version from NPD.

Corey

I want to buy the correct heater hose for my car.  It is a 1968 GT350, February 12, 4 speed, no A/C car.  Looking at NPD they have a few "Concourse" offerings.  Some have red stripes and some have on hose with yellow stripes and one with white stripes.

What would be correct for my car?

Thank you,

Corey

I am currently reinstalling my rebuilt motor into my 68 GT350.  I did a complete refresh on the engine compartment while the motor was out being rebuilt but I did not replace the heater hoses.  In hooking up the heater hoses I feel like they are too short to rout the way they should and they are not the stock hose with red stripes.  So I am feeling like I have gone this far and should replace these hoses.  The console and seats are currently out of the car.  So just how hard is it to replace these hoses?  Are there things I should know before/while tackling this task?  Any tips or advise is appreciated.

Also I see NPD has concourse hoses supplied by Marti Auto Works.  Are these the best ones and is this the best place to purchase them?

Thank you,

Corey

I am looking for a Holley for the February 12 68 GT350 4 speed car.  I am not super concerned about dates.  I would take a good solid rebuildable core or a carb that is already rebuilt and ready to roll.  Please let me know what you have.

Thank you,

Corey

Can any one tell me the difference between the Holley 4bbl used with auto vs. manual transmission on 1968 GT350?

Corey

I know most of you guys have been doing this for 50 years and can do it blindfolded but I have never done it.  I have a tapping sound coming from my engine so I need to adjust the valves.  I googled it and see there is a procedure for doing it with the engine running and one with it not.  I personally would have never guessed you would do it with the engine running?

Is there a preferred method to use?

Thank you,

Corey

I got my freshly rebuilt engine back about three weeks ago.  Got the car all put back together.  I took the car out for a 10 minute test drive around the neighborhood and came home with no issues.  A few days later took it to fill up with gas, was driving about 20 minutes and no issue.  Saturday took it to a local car show so drove it a total of probably 45 minutes including some highway speeds and no issues.  Sunday I took it to a very large show on the eastern shore that was a good hour away.  The trip home was hot and was in bumper to bumper traffic for half of the ride home.  The car ran cool as a cucumber but when I got home a had a significant oil puddle under the car.

I put the car on the lift an found engine oil weeping out of every seam and opening in the bell housing and a spray of oil on the bottom of the car.  So this is no small leak.  I also looked at the block generally and the valve covers specifically and the block is bone dry.

I would like opinions on source of leak.  The two that have been mentioned is of course the rear main seal and the other being the flywheel bolts.  Given the nature of this leak (not there for three rides and then appearing) and the quantity of the leak would that point to one over the other?

Are there any other possible leak points between the block and the bell housing?

Thank you,

Corey

I am reassembling my 1968 GT350 February 12 build date Shelby and have hopefully a simple question.  I have 2 different styles of front rubber hood bumper that mounts in the fender.  Which style is correct.  In the pictures I have I see both used.

Thank you,

Corey

I am trying to figure out how the inside surfaces of the front fender were finished leaving A. O. Smith.  These are some of my thoughts. 

The fenders I presume were painted off the car (at ford) because I know the screws are not painted? 

I presume the fenders were red oxide epoxy primed before body color was applied? 

From the pictures shown below that I pulled from thecoralsnake.com it appears the inside of the fenders were painted body color.

So were the insides in fact painted body color or was it red oxide with just body color overspray or...

Thank you,

Corey

I am looking to get the parking light brackets and side marker brackets replated in the original Zink Dichromate finish (thank you Bob).  Does anyone out there do this or know of someone that does?

I see this clamp on thecoralsnake.com.  I assume my February GT350 should have two of these clamps?  Does anyone know where I might get 2 of these clamps?

Thank you,

Corey