Topics

Yea, I know this looks like crap but that's how it is after 50+ years, that's why I'm here. Also, you'll notice the starter wiring is a little different, that's because of a RobbMc starter. I also know I'm missing the starter delay but that's for another day. I would like to clean this up but can't find any go-by pictures. In all pictures I find, this area is hidden by the air cleaner snorkel. If anyone has a clear picture of this area for a KR I'd appreciate seeing it.

Thanks in advance
Ted

I'm planning to restart a non-Ford (1973 455 Pontiac) after a 25+year sleep. I was warned that I should be concerned about valve stems breaking due to carbon that had previously built up on the stems causing the stem to weaken. This breaking may not occur right away but could be a few hundred miles later. Anyone have opinions on this?

Thanks in advance
Ted

I have an automatic so I assume there is a plug for the firewall hole where the clutch rod would normally be for a 4 speed. It's close to 2" in diameter, left of the steering column and just above the parking brake assembly. Right now I have a year-round heater. I have found rubber plugs for most everything except that hole. Can someone identify and advise a source?

Thanks
Ted

I have been a user of Black Magic Bleche Wite on tires since back when it was Wesley's and worked well. As others have agreed, it doesn't work as well now. I recently found this product at a detailer specialty store. I bought some and it seems to work well. You also can wash the wheel and tire with the same product. So far I've only used it on current factory wheels so I don't know how it would work on vintage alloy wheels. I also don't any tires with white letters or white walls so I can't address that either. I would be interested to hear if others have tried it and what they found.

https://www.meguiars.com/professional/products/meguiars-non-acid-wheel-tire-cleaner-clean-tires-wheels-without-using-acid

Best regards
Ted

I have 2 areas between intake runners that are hot spots. So much so that it's burning the paint off between runners 1 and 2 and runners 7 and 8. Whats the bad news?

As long as I have owned my KR (auto with AC), the large vacuum canister (the big "bean can") under battery tray has been barely in place and secured thru various means. I'm trying to replace the battery tray and rehab the canister but can't figure how the large canister is SUPPOSED to fit in relation to the battery tray supports. They appear to want to occupy the same space. 

On a side note, there is a small vacuum canister fitted through the fender well in the same area but has no connections. I assume this was not used in lieu of the bigger canister and is just to fill the whole in the fender well. Am I correct?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ted

Can someone provide placement information for the dash emblem on a KR?

Thanks in advance
Ted

I'm playing with some hair-brained ideas and I'm looking for a "derelict" 68 tail light bucket that's really is too far gone to ever be refurbished but you just held on to it anyway. I'm looking to get the shape of the individual bulb buckets so a complete part is not required. If you have something that sounds like what I'm after drop me a PM and let me know what you have and how much you want.

Thanks for looking
Ted

I'm looking for words of wisdom. My KR front suspension/steering is in dire need of a rebuild. The car is a good driver so I'm not looking to replace everything with "correct" parts unless that's just as cost-effective as over-the-counter parts. So, a few questions:
1. General recommendations on parts?
2. If over-the-counter, any recommendations on brand?
3. The car is not in front of me so I'll ask, is it difficult to replace the upper a-arms on a big block?
4. Any words of advice?

Thanks in advance,
Ted

Yea, I know, the fender bolts are not supposed to be painted body color. That's what I intend to fix. I'd like to buy a set of correct replacements so I can take these out and strip off the paint at my leisure. However, I haven't been able to find any that match these markings. I assume they are original.

Ted

Just asking questions. Shouldn't these valve covers listed on Ebay have the Shelby American number S7MS6582 in raised characters on the inside to be correct? Does this appear to be a case of old original Ford box with repo part?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-68-Shelby-GT500-GT500KR-lemans-valve-cover-set-from-1968/273663438494?epid=1737756828&hash=item3fb79cae9e:g:THkAAOSwH0lcQlau

Ted

If I were traveling with my Shelby, either driving or on an open trailer and needed to stay overnight in a hotel/motel I'd be interested to here ideas for security. High tech, low tech, any thing.
Thanks in advance
Ted

I need a replacement for the tube going into the secondary horn area from the chock stove (see photo). Can someone provide enough info so I can source a replacement?

p.s. Happy Independence Day