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Topics - Steve Meltzer

#1
I need to replace the dashpot in the accelerator linkage of the Holley on my 1968 GT500 KR. Many of these dashpots look similar, so I was wondering what the correct part number was before I go buy something and it is incorrect. Thanks Steve
#2
The decorative grill on the interior of my right rear quarter panel has come loose; it's rattling around is making me crazy. Any suggestions on how to get it to stay in place short of a drop of crazy glue? It looks like the little plastic pins that help to hold it in place are worn or warped or both. Thanks, steve
#3
The sloppy SOB, who worked on my suspension used a pneumatic impact wrench to remove the wheel nuts from my Magnum 500 10 spoke wheels.In doing so, the vibration has scratched and defaced some of the finish on all of the wheels. My finish is a gray matte and I wonder if there's a touch up paint that matches it well. I'd like to repaint these as soon as I shoot the guy who did the work. Thanks, Steve.

ADD:  I can't seem to find a socket that is thin-walled enough to comfortably fit in that office. Suggestions??
#4
SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Ultrasonic cleaners
June 20, 2024, 06:51:54 PM


    Thinking about cleaning some carburetor parts and other small parts and would like to know if anyone has had experience with an ultrasonic cleaner. If so, what brand did you buy? What cleaning solution do you use in it, and how much time and temperature for carburetor parts? Thanks Steve.
#5
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Ultrasonic cleaners
June 20, 2024, 12:09:27 PM
Thinking about cleaning some carburetor parts and other small parts and would like to know if anyone has had experience with an ultrasonic cleaner. If so, what brand did you buy? What cleaning solution do you use in it, and how much time and temperature for carburetor parts? Thanks Steve.
#6
I am doing the first oil change on my 68 KR since I purchased her in September. I seem to be getting some conflicting information about how many quarts it will take on refill. Apparently, there was a TSB regarding this issue, perhaps in 1970. I even found a blurb about the dipstick part number, but it didn't apply to mine, which is a 6750-A. FROM A PRAGMATIC POINT OF VIEW, I COULD CERTAINLY JUST FILL THE CRANK CASE, CHECKING THE DIPSTICK UNTIL IT GOT TO WHERE I WANTED IT TO BE, BUT THERE SHOULD BE A REPRODUCIBLE ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION. PLEASE INCLUDE INFORMATION ABOUT WHETHER THE VALUE DOES OR DOES NOT INCLUDE THE FILTER. Thanks Steve
#7
Anybody know one? thanx. steve
#8
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Shelby expert in Houston
May 12, 2024, 10:50:59 PM
Anybody know one? thanx. steve
#9
Anybody know one? thanx. steve
#10
1965 GT350/R-Model / Shelby expert in Houston
May 12, 2024, 10:48:58 PM
Anybody know one? thanx. steve
#11
Anybody know one? thanx. steve
#12
I'm not sure that I can live with the ride height difference between the lower left side and the right. The angles of the right and left shackles show a difference as well, leading my mechanic and I to believe that we need to do something about the rear leaf springs, if anything is to be done. The difference in height is about 3/4 to 1 inch, the right being higher than the left. The car is a very correct car and within reason, I'd like to maintain that virtue, though I have no plans to show her. Ever. It's a car that I have been driving and plan to continue to do so.

So, my question is, should I have the springs re-arched b/c they are original or should I save them and buy new springs? If so, from who,? And how would I get them refinished in a way that's reasonably close to the original? Any and all suggestions are most welcome and appreciated. Thanks, Steve
#13
Sometimes the enemy of good is better! When I refurbished the original A-arms/control arms, their ball joints, and their grease fittings, I was careful to mark which side of the car each component came from. Now, I see that the car is sitting half an inch higher on one side than the other. I doubt that I switched springs, but I guess it's possible. Before I tear into this and swap the springs around, any suggestions? And yes, the tire pressure is equal on all sides. Thank you, steve
#14
Wanted to Buy / WTB 1968 Shelby Hood Hinge
April 20, 2024, 11:42:55 AM
Need driver's side (L) hood hinge with "+" patterned rivets. 1968 Shelby KR.no junk, please. thanx steve meltzer 832-452-3859 <GTC8995@gmail.com>
#15
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / KR Hood hinges
April 05, 2024, 10:47:02 AM
I believe that one of the hood hinges on my KR is defective and I want to replace it. can someone give me a paint color in rattle form, to make these look appropriate. I believe it is some kind of gray, but a specific maker and paint number would be great. Thanks Steve Meltzer.
#16
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / 10-Soke lug nuts
February 27, 2024, 09:28:13 AM
What is the correct torque for the Lugnuts on 10-soke wheels? I was always taught to use anti seize, but I'm hearing now that maybe I shouldn't Comments? Thanks Steve.
#17
I know that KRs did not come from the factory with side view mirrors on the passenger side. However, many have been installed by dealers and owners since that time. Since I drive my KR as often as I can, I'd like to have that sideview mirror for visibility and safety. Is it possible to get the mirror both symmetrical with respect to the original driver side mirror and, at the same time be able to actually see out of it?  I've noted on some European cars that the symmetrical look of the mirrors does not allow one to actually use the mirror effectively! (This has happened to me on two of my own cars already.) Any suggestions for finding one that is as originals as possible for the passenger side, mounting information or anything else that would help me with this endeavor? Thanks, Steve
#18
The grease boots on both the upper and lower ball joints in my 68 KR are torn to shreds. So, I decided to replace them. It turns out, as you all already know, that the boot is integrated into the ball joint which in turn, is riveted to the control arm.

What is the best way to do this, and yet keep it as original as possible, and looking as good as it does? Is there a service that can do this at a reasonable cost or should I buy one of the various replacements that seem to be readily available from one of the vendors? I want to keep the car as close to original and correct on my watch as possible. Thanks for your advice. Steve

ADD:  The spring removal tool suggested here looks to be quite substantial, and the mechanic doing the work is pleased so far. Thanks, Steve
#19
I'm sorry if I'm making everyone crazy but I'm trying to do this right, if possible. The car is very nice and correct, but I am driving it and plan to continue to do so. The brake hoses are "Weatherhead" hoses and so labeled with 1987 dates. This seems old to me, although they look good from the outside. Given the circumstances of the car being driven fairly commonly, should they be replaced? The replacement hoses I have purchased and can return are from John's Mustang and they are not "Weatherhead labeled, and the fittings are a semi-gloss metal finis and not the yellow/gold CAD finish I currently have on my existing hoses. Any thoughts about what I should do and, if I get new hoses", where would I find the "Weatherhead" kind or should I even bother? Thank you so much for your patience and advice. steve
#20
I got my KR about two or three months ago; the horn initially worked intermittently, but now it doesn't work at all. I will assume from that fact, that the problem is not in the horns per se, but somewhere in the wiring or contacts in the steering wheel. If this is a common problem, where would the most likely solution be? Also, I've heard that some of the replacement parts for the horn rim and button are junk. Can anyone shed light on this before I start replacing parts? Thanks and sorry for the never ending stream of questions as I learned about this great car. Steve.