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4159 is off for a wheel alignment tomorrow.
My Shelby owners manual is for "1967 Shelby GT350/500" and states:

Caster   2 degrees positive
Camber  0 degrees
Toe-in     1/8in. total

Is it the same for a 68?
If not can anyone advise specs please, I tried searching but got lots of varying info.

Thanks in advance as always.

With all the challenge and subsequent excitement of getting the "away" setup working perfectly I completely forgot about the "tilt".
Am I correct in thinking I should be able to set the angle of the wheel (through a vertical plane only, not the away motion) by pushing the indicator stalk away from me?
When I try this the stalk moves away when pushed but the wheel remains stubbornly locked in place.
Any thoughts appreciated.

I have a couple of issues I can't quite solve, any advice gratefully received.
All wiring front to back has been replaced with new Alloy Metal Products wiring.
1. Fog lamps are working perfectly but the male plug with black wire(pic attached) is not plugged in anywhere and I can't figure out where it goes.It is live when the fog light switch is on.
2. Hazard lights flash at the front and the dash when on, but not at the back. Indicators work correctly front and back. My car has the sequencer delete harness (pictured). I can't see it being the flasher as surely they wouldn't work front or rear if that was the issue?

Pete, pics are from your website I hope you don't mind.

Thanks in advance as always.

Fired the KR up today, first start since resto began 2/3 years ago so a very rewarding day.
All went well, no leaks etc, just a couple of guage issues to sort.
Oil pressure guage not reading correctly, just goes hard right as far as it can.
I bought a sender unit from NPD link but now suspect that unit is for mustang guages only, not Stewart Warner and is causing this issue.
Found a thread on here that says I need "stewart warner D-353-Z' sender(thank you Coralsnake)
My question is, does it have to be a NOS or used sender, or is there a new alternative that works.
I searched the Stewart Warner website for D-353-Z and nothing came up.
Thanks in advance.

Is the front mesh grill painted?
Thanks as always.

I think I may have a tach problem. Car has a new AMK products main underdash wiring harness "with tach" installed. Today I ran the wires to the tacho, pink wire to black plug on tacho and red wire to the red plug on tacho.This resulted in no voltage at coil. When we bypassed the revcounter we got power back at the coil.Testing with a multimeter shows no power is passing through the revcounter.
Does that sound like a "burnt out" tacho?
Are they repairable?
I would very much like to keep the original tacho so would prefer to repair if possible.
Thanks in advance as always.   

Are repro's available?
I can't find them anywhere.
Thanks in advance as always. 

I've looked at all the usual places but can't find a replacement seal, does anyone know if these are available anywhere?
If not any suggestions?
Thanks as always.

This cannister was mounted in the LH wheel well and plumbed into the brake power booster vacuum line via the t piece you can see in the hose.
Am I correct in saying this is not original to the car?
Thanks as always.

This is the "extras" fuse panel that attaches to the fuse box under the dash.
When I pulled it out I noticed that the wires coming off one of the fuses were not connected to anything and I forgot to take notes or pics of where the other ran to.
I think a 25amp runs from this panel to the aircon, is this correct?

My second fuse is also 25amp but as I said, went nowhere...
Should there be a second fuse on this panel? Should it be 10 amp and to the fog lights?
Thanks as always 

Me again,
This is a pic of the button(not sure if that is the right term) on the front windscreen that the rearview mirror mounts to and pivots on.
As you can see I need to get this off to clean it up, have found some info online that suggested a butane torch was the go but I am fearful the heat may crack the windscreen, which amazingly looks to be the original.
Is there a preferred way to get this button off?
Thanks as always.

Would anyone have pics of wiring harness routing in engine bay with motor out?
Mine was all over the place(main harness was draped over top of shock tower) so not much help to get it correct.
Thanks in advance as always.

Are these available anywhere?
Cobranda has them listed but they have been out of stock for 12 months.
Thanks in advance as always.

Started putting the headliner on and then wondered if the roof would have originally had some insulation stuck to it before the headliner went on?
I can't remember any old insulation coming out when the car was stripped 2 years ago but looking at some pics there were some marks that could be the leftovers from glue/insulation of some type.
I'm happy to go without insulation if it was never there, but if it was there from factory would like to put some back in.
Any help appreciated as always.

Does anyone have a source for these ? (one of mine has a split in it).
I've attached a pic, these are the larger rollers in the frame, not the smaller ones in the regulator.
Thanks for any help.

Just realised I don't have seals for the scoops and can't seem to find any pre-cut ones, what is typically done?
Are they available anywhere, or maybe just use foam sealer tape?
Thanks in advance as always.

I doubt that it is the original and it needs some work so thinking I may as well buy a new "york style" one. I've read what I can find on the forum and apparently the original castings have some differences to the replacements so wondering what I have. Likely it's not original but would hate to not use it if it is....can anyone tell from these pics?
Thank you.   

So it's all apart, just can't get the last 2 "housing" bits apart, which I need to do to replace the rear bearing.
There are internally threaded pins/screws that hold the 2 housing pieces together and I'm unsure if a special tool is required to wind into the internal thread on the pins, or if you can just use a correct size/threaded screw inserted into the pin and then pull it out, if they aren't in too tight.
That is a poor description I'm sorry but I think anyone who has done this and can help will know what I mean.
Pics show the pins with a hole in the centre, which is threaded.
Thanks as always for any advice.

Thought maybe these pics might help someone at some stage, an original 69 rim off my KR(that's a whole nother story, I'm not saying they are original to the KR though it seems "likely" the car left the dealership with them on......just saying they are original 69's)with new rim from paradise wheels adjacent. I waited a year for these and am very happy with them for my non concours KR.
Just thought these pics may help someone with a 69 thinking about new wheels, now or down the track a bit.

I got the cap off easily enough and want to pull the wheel but now am stuck.
It looks like there is a second piece to come off before you can pull the wheel, you can see the join just before the spokes?
If I'm correct there, how does that bit come off? Is it threaded,or some type of friction or spring fir?....or am I on the wrong track?
Appreciate any advice on how to get this wheel off so I can give it a little clean and inspection before it goes back in the car.
I don't want to butcher it trying, thanks all.