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You'll bring out a lot more cars if you have the Popular Vote Car Show on Saturday.  There are a lot of nice but not concours cars that would come Saturday if there was a place to put them, other than trying to find a spot in the track car and trailer lot.

Is it worth Bob calling Chris Brown's Browns Auto Body service and ask if they have any more?  I believe they sold 15/16in, but with a more correct 1/4 bleeder. I know they are out of the business since his passing, but maybe some left over?

http://www.burtonantiqueautoparts.com/store.php#!/1967-Ford-Mustang-Deluxe-Door-Panel-Brushed-Aluminum-Inserts/p/17302469/category=4000249

With Burton apparently no longer making these, what has been the go-to solution?

With Burton, best to call them.  A few years ago I was watching the web site for months hoping an item would come back in stock.  When I finally called they said they had them and were really helpful with options beyond what was listed.  They don't necessarily keep the web site updated.

I used Cougars unlimited because of the kit(sequential box) and it all looks factory other than brighter bulbs. If someone just wants bulbs I'd recommend my friend Bill  who owns HIPO parts. He was at the forefront of LED lighting for classics after he left Ford Motor company and moved "up North" from Dearborn to Gaylord, Mi. Bill will set you up right and he is a car guy mostly 71-3 Mustangs and Boss 351s.  https://www.hipoparts.com/

Do can you put a LED 1157 type bulb in a 67 tail light? With no problems? And without having to play with something else?

I used the West Coast Classic Cougar red plasma 1157 6 pack in my 67 Shelby with no problems.  No changes in flashers needed so easily swappable back to regular bulbs.  You don't need the indicator relay.  I also can vouch for the HIPO dash cluster LEDs that worked great in another 67 Mustang as a drop in, but you do lose some of that dimmer functionality.

Phil Severence is well known among classic Mustang folk for tach, clock and other instrument repairs.  I've happily used him several times.  Don't know whether he also does odometer/speedo work.
https://www.phidonrestorations.com/

Palo Alto Speedometer is well known by the local car community in Northern CA.  Don't have personal experience with them, though.
http://www.paspeedo.com/

Marcus Anghel might be a good starting point.  He is a member of this forum and does high end restorations.  Very nice guy, does open houses usually around the BJ auction. In Scottsdale.

https://anghelrestorations.com/

Same here.  Built a 67 Shelby version instrument cluster for my tribute and restored a clock.  Super nice guy to work with and excellent work.

Just capturing a relevant data point.  From the current BAT auction of Dave Mathews / Colin Comer owned "SAAC Unrestored-Class-Winning 1967 Shelby Mustang GT350" #3002.  I'm sure multiple versions went out the door over the year of production.

To the original question, I found this video very helpful when I removed and rebuilt my pedal assembly.  He removes an automatic pedal set to install a manual set, but key pieces of this video that helped me:
-Definitely go ahead and remove the fresh air vent and drop the parking brake handle like he does.  Also removing the instrument cluster helped.
-I removed mine the same way he shows putting his in at about 8min 30sec.
-Putting the pedal assembly in the vice like he does to assemble the spring was very helpful.  It significantly reduces the flex working against you.  I bought a pair of rubber coated soft jaws for my vice to not mark up my pedal set lip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8b37fLoIN8

Removing the spring:  I was able to get to the 3 screws holding the bracket on.  I removed 2 screws and loosened the 3rd so the bracket could swivel and let go the tension.  Wear safety glasses just in case, but mine let go without issue.  There are a number of posts on Mustang forums saying after you remove the retaining pin you can push the clutch pedal to the floor and then slide it out sideways enough to pass the pedal stop.  I don't know how they did it.  Couldn't get mine to budge that way.

FYI I'd take the junction block and do what I said then send out for plating.

Interesting.  What would you plate it?

I'd advise caution media blasting these parts.  Neither the distribution block nor the proportioning valve have a rough finish and once you media blast them it is challenging to carefully remove the texture you've created on all faces.  It is the quickest, easiest way to make them look shiny to post on eBay, but you are creating work to remove the media blast finish later.  Shelbymann70, you and others may have a refined technique, but your average joe blasts the crud out of them and makes it hard to get these back to factory look.

Brake light switch:  Even more fun to replace when the previous owner somehow managed to put it on backwards, with the u-slot outside negating the ability to slip it off with just a slight horizontal movement.

Additional previous owner fix yesterday... the little brackets that secure the bottom of the fenders behind the front wheel well.  Somehow mine never could correctly tighten down and the bolts were at a funny angle.  Took the right one off to soak in Evaporust, straighten the bends and chase the threads.  When going to put back on noticed an "L" and it didn't seem to fit right.  Thought surely not, and yup, the one on the left side had an "R".

Those are all quite respectable cars

Judging by your moniker, is the 68 cobra jet yours?  Very nice looking car.

I found some brass bushings on EBay to replace the plastic ones and if you don't mind deviating a little from originality they are a great substitute for the cheesy plastic.   The guy on EBay describes these as for a Bronco but they fit nicely.

Thank you for this by the way.  Tried them and the clutch pedal feels real smooth.  Used at both the pedal and z-bar ends.  The thicker shoulder makes it a little tight to get the pin in the other side, especially when your z-bar is slightly bent.  That's a small, reversible deviation I'm willing to make

JB Custom Fabrication
https://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/products/early-bronco-clutch-pushrod-bushings?_pos=1&_sid=94f0a5868&_ss=r

I "corrected" my trunk lid. My aftermarket trunk lid had a beautiful gelcoat body color finish. So I sanded off the finish, applied a nonstructural fiberglass sheet along with some chopped matt to try and reproduce the originals I have seen, blackened it out and added the overspray. Its not perfect but looks pretty good to me.

Very cool.  You even managed to make the Plazaglass sticker look old.  I would also be impressed if you replicated the look of a missing sticker with light overspray around it and then removed the sticker