Messages

  I recall a few Boss 429's For Sale that had 302's in them as the owner blew the motor.
    I saw my 67 GT 350 in the local newspaper.  The fellow was selling it because he wanted to add money for his future homebuying.
   Due to my qualifying for my High School "Plymouth Troubleshooting team" I got my first job at south Chicago Chrysler pre-delivery center. I was 18-19-20.  Added up numerous cool Mopar vehicles.  Which one would I buy?  None, I bought that Shelby (above)
You name it, Duster & Dart 340's, Road Runner Superbee's, Chargers. Challenger T/A's were my favorite. Wow new cars were cheap.

Yeah, sub-issue: some new tire dealers WILL NOT touch a tire (unless of course you are buying new ones) that are older than 10 years.  They say liability issues.

Yep, pulling the cluster is not easy.  Check for voltage at either the temp sensor wire or the fuel pick-up wire. 
  Tough choice to either use an OEM style voltage limiter or the new electronic type.

  Tuff call.  No part number block cast in, and I've seen better dressing of the air opening.

Well, let's add the copper washer under the nut, too.

C6 automatic or 4spd?

Good question.
  If it is an automatic, don't rule out the dipstick tube "O" ring. Way easier to fix.

well, you know.  There is a "Wanted to buy" area where the moderator will move this to.

  Hard to tell without a few more photos but looks restorable if the owners wants to do it.

And: has the proportioning valve been rebuilt?  The spring inside actually rusts apart causing issues.
  One final comment: On my tribute car which sat for 30 years, there was a ridge inside the prop valve bore that was impossible to see.  That too caused problems for a while.

JD comes through again!!

  Slow down, we're all busy.
   There is an illustration in the "Branda" 67 Shelby assembly manual as to what wire goes where.
 Now you'll need to decide what Amp gauge covering to use (depending on what production era you built) and what junction block to use.
  And don't forget to use an insulating grommet at the firewall of risk burning your car down.

  Unless the crank is out, it's really difficult to deal with the locating pin.  I know somebody is going to answer that they did it.
  My 67 had the plastic-coated cam gear.  I was glad to be rid of it.

We can help but I'd like to know what year you have to make sure you get it correct.

Just to make sure:  The painting occurred after the box was installed on the assembly line?

  And if that is a "yes" to the years, exactly what years.

Well, I spliced in a new wire before the pink wire under the dash.  And ran that out to the coil.  And, I bought the Petronic's coil that they advise.
  But, I will check the voltage out at the coil wire but it ought to read 12 volts.