Messages

SOLD..

Sold 8D25 unmarked nodular case/carrier.


Anyone know how to read the date on the C5AW-C Daytona pinion support?

L4 or A-2?

Thx, Phil

The 70 B2 steel wheels were 15x7 & ofc, disk brake compatible. 69s only came with Magnums; painted or chrome.

There were quite a few out there as it was the standard offering in 2 version with hub caps/trim rings. Chrome Magnum 500s was the only factory option that year and the iconic design became the defacto "BOSS Wheel" upgrade from there forward.

The plain steel rims are fairly rare as most were discarded for the various Day 2 Alum options as well...

You would SAVE some $ by not hunting  down the special caps/covers/rings.

Thanks Tim, I got your msg.

Late 68/early 69 Nodular carrier, no "N"

C4AW-B 8D24 fresh/new bearings.

I'll sell complete or stripped but it's built with some incorrect parts like;

28-spl Det Locker & 4.56 Richmond gears
but Daytona pinion suppt & the longish yoke fits properly w/1330 size so likely correct. (cap ODs measure 1 1/8", 3 5/8 W)

1600  complete + shipping
700  bare w/caps & I'll ship

Price is obo.
Open to trades, suggestions, whatever.

Im not sure what this is worth but know someone here will clue me in.

I'd keep it but:
Too early for my 69 B2 (31-spl)
Too late for my 66 stealth GT.

I have a set of 15x7 that were re-rimmed (from 6" rims) by the guy in Denver....now closed down. 
They look like the Shelby style Magstars (big window)

PM for info. They come with 4 new center caps (Paradise Wheels).

Phil

TexasSwede is right.

The CB (circuit breaker) inside a Mustang/Shelby/Boss headlight switch can "trip" when overheated but will reset once cooled off. I assume you can "blow" one from constant abuse or maybe just age and then, a new one is in order... I learned a lot while troubleshooting lighting gremlins in a 70 while swapping with 69 parts.

Got this CB info straight from the Ford Shop Manuals for Mustangs

Year        Amps
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
66           12       (Falcon also)                                        18=   Comet, Fairlane
67            ?         No manual
68           12       (Falcon also)                                        18=   Cougar, Fairlane, Montego
69           18       (also Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon, Montego)
70           12       Falcon/Maverick also                            18=   Cougar, Fairlane, Montego

69 CB rating IS higher than the 70 (due to supporting 4 headlights vs 2) but is exactly plug & play.

FYI: there are multiple CBs in each Headlight switch & not only for lighting, like horns!

HTH,

Phil

Good point Ed... I just realized that last night as I gazed at the back of my 70 B2 trying to visualize the whole thing. How did the 69/70 Shelbys have theirs lit?

I guess just daytime driving could be an option...to stay legal.
Kinda like my hardship license when I was just 15; "daytime only or to & from work..."

I might have to get creative here...by running the wire thru 1 of the filler-neck screw holes.

Are these the Yellow stripe springs?

If so, I've got a set of 8 NOS, unboxed...& another 8 in the Ford box.

I've got mostly Boss 302 stuff so I need bigger springs.

I'd want to sell 8 unboxed or all 16. What do you think these are worth?

Phil

Ok, good...

I bought NOS OEM Ford stuff as I'd heard that some aftermarket replacement parts are...well, let's just say they're cheap for a reason. 

And I was damn tired of troubleshooting, testing, swapping... it was much more, of course, but shopping around online can save a few $.

Oh yes, I had 1 ground wire completely missing from the main connector to the turn signal switch as well as a crushed wire in the same harness (pinched almost in half where the steering is bolted to the dash.) so, I basically had 3 problems causing my weird symptoms. 

Also, I added factory sport lamps, OEM AC, an MSD box, and dual electric fans (drawing their power thru relays directly fm battery via fat fused hidden wires)

Take this for for what it's worth.

I was chasing major electrical gremlins correcting the wiring in my 70 BOSS and, assuming the wiring is similar, I learned 2 things:

Everything goes thru the headlight switch AND
everything else goes thru the flasher/turn-signal indicator... with some going thru BOTH.

I replaced both and ALL problems I didn't create myself were GONE..!!!?? like magic.

One of my switches was flakey (intermittent) and the other was defective (broken). This assumes, of course, that you have all wires connected and grounded properly and with proper loads from operating incandescent bulbs, etc.... Don't forget the flashers! (There are 2; 1 for the blinkers and 1 for the E-flashers.)

These 2 switches ARE together the "brain" that routes virtually all the lighting signals. In today's vehicles, it's a computer but back then, it was 2 complexes of switches and re-routed wiring with double feeds, etc... Just look in the manual or wiring diagram of ALL the circuits that route thru them. I was shocked. The headlamp switch even has a circuit breaker built in that "breaks" when too much current is drawn and it overheats the circuit (the only difference between the 69 vs 70 is that CB...and the 69 rating is higher bcz it has 4 headlight vs 2). After the CB cools off for a while, everything works again "until next time". You can't imagine how maddening that can be when troubleshooting... I wanted to pull my hair out!!

Luckily, I had, all the manuals, tools, an electrician and a lot of beer/time. Oh yeah, I worked on computers for 38 years so I was not gonna let some 1970s "technology" defeat me..!!!

OK, there, I feel better now. Hope this helps..!!

Thanks Jeff and Bob.

That's just the kind of great info I was hoping for...from both of you.

It looks like the 69/70 Mustang lic. plate holder welded to the valance is also in the way.
Maybe I should just do this to an aftermarket valance.

I did get an NOS C7 vented cap to use under the license plate holder...If you recall, it has to move vs the spring pressure to access the cap.
I have both types of std BOSS/Mustang gas caps but, since I don't think they'll fit underneath, I'll likely go with the vented cap and send some of the fumes out as you described via the filler neck.

I did not realize the 70 Shelby vented/emissions/California caps were "smaller". By that, I assume you mean that pre-70 vented caps will not fit due to the smaller filler neck/opening size... What is the part # of the non-vented cap that fits the normal vented size? Since this is obviously not a #s matching deal, all I need is a functional equivalent but having the OEM into is great when doing searches.

Seems now the biggest deal for me is avoiding the 2 holes to mount said lic. plate holder. Maybe I can fab an inobtrusive bracket.
I spent too much on the NOS 69 tail light panel to butcher it now...lol

Though I have the proper parts for the 2 1/4" transverse setup on my 69, I may go straight out duals ala 70 B2 just to have fewer issues and restriction getting the gasses thru the Shelby exh Collector/Port.

Has anyone installed these unique parts for the 1st time on a Mustang or repaired/replaced them on a Shelby?

I've always loved that look as my 1st roommate had a 69 GT350.
I'm thinking about retrofitting it onto my 69/70 Boss just for the visual effect.
I know some here may find this unpleasant to consider and I hope you'll exercise discretion. After all, I'm only sacrificing a valance.

I've managed to acquire an OEM S9MS exh port, license plate bracket, & gas cap and wanna know what I'm getting myself into before springing for the repro collector.

I.e.

Anything special/unique about:

-Valance    (like is there a Shelby part or just modify a Mustang unit)
-Gas Tank 

Thanks,

Phil.

All these are good suggestions but here's a couple.
If your car is "almost" overheating as you said, then maybe an overflow tank is needed to recover any lost fluid. Not factory perhaps, but problem solved.

If it's ONLY overheating during idle/slow operations, don't forget the correct pulleys.
Under-driving a WP pulley is fine at 8k RPM, but not at idle. Check both crank and WP pulleys. In this case, size is all that matters

Not to argue the thermostat point, but Ford usually specified a 180-190 deg F T-stat on SBFs.  Too low can sometimes lead to unintended consequences.

Correct fan placement should be about 1/2 way into the shroud.

I also agree about the thin, over-bored cylinder walls...most likely made worse when core-shift isn't eliminated in thin-wall castings like the SBF...

Lastly, you didn't say anything about the cam or heads but here goes:
-too much cam duration and the valves aren't closed long enough to transfer heat to the head. Not sure if hard seats make this better or worse.
-valve seats cut too thin (a la racing 3-5 angle valve job) sometimes make the above problem even worse and eventually lead to a burned valve.

I hope its something simple. I love the idea about the IR thermometer. I personally put a 68-GT350 fan/clutch on my 66 Mustang 351W (track-car) and never had overheating issues.


Good luck,

Phil

I'm not sure which forum was best for this but:

...Has anyone used cable linkage (as on 69/70 Mustangs) attaching it to the mechanical levers on the 66/67 air box?

I'm curious as to if this works by adapting to existing/OEM brackets or if it was strictly a custom fabrication setup?

I know crazy, right? I'm putting a Paxton in my 70 so I don't need to spin the RPM to get into the power...


Thanks guys,
Phil