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Yes, so glad I'm not the only 1 trusting in the Ford Voodoo.

Keep in mind, there are 8-9 months of summer in South Tx... so the 3-4 days each year below 40 degrees are not the issue.

Sometimes, it even gets below 80 @5AM during summer..

I do know about oil temps needing to be 180-210 F or so (with bean/Dino oil) & cooling it may be less of a need than being properly equipped for the upcoming "Death-Race 2000" event.. I love being prepared...though I hated earning merit badges. Lol

I'll likely run full synth after breaking so it's ALL OVERKILL....I.e. my middle name.


Again, I've offered to sell my B2 adapter to the OP...& the rest of this is fluff.

...but alllllways willing to learn. 

I get that.

The BOSS 302 adapters have a sort of thermostatic bypass circuit that I'll accept works on the drag cars good enough to maintain oil temps within spec for warranty purposes. 

It's a spring loaded steel ball bearing that, when seated, seals the passage to the radiator...I'm assuming.


When it's pushed off the seat with hot/thin oil, I'm assuming enough oil gets routed through the cooler to bring down the temps. 

Seems kinda primal to me but as long as it was properly made to use the physics of pressure/volume/temp, I trust it'll work as designed.

Other than:
-not using the spec'd oil viscosity the -calibrated spring being out of spec

...I'm not sure what could go wrong. 

I've got C9ZE & a D0ZE B2 oil cooler adapters that I'd collected over the years for my 69 & 70 B2s.

Neither are 4.30 'W' code cars so likely overkill on the resto and I'll let 1 of em go.

One is bolted up on my 70, iirc, so the other is available. I'll check which one is loose. PM me if interested.

I'm going with the S1MS adapter setup on my 69 as it's a Shelby Tribute TA car and my cooler/rad has the larger AN fittings to match. (#12AN?)

Phil

Not a Shelby owner & not exactly on point but I've driven my Shelby lowered 66 GT hard since 85 and the biggest ties I found to fit in all cases is

225/60-15. (on all 4 corners + spare)
...mounted on 69 Boss Argent Magnums

I standardized on that size bcz my 86 GT came with that sized G-Y Gatorback and I liked having a universal fitment setup.

Now I had HD coils & 5-leafs with a removed rear seat & relocated battery but the only time I scraped/rubbed is if I took a fat chick for a ride.

Rolling the fenders then helped.

Phil

Thanks for the great info guys.

Thx for the great pix Roy.
Which Autosport? catalog is that page out of that give the carb info, part #, prices?

In 1 of em, it looks like the bolts holding the lid down are chromed. It jumped out bcz my 3/4" long 14 bolts for the lid are chrome.

Anyway, now the hunt for the single 4V lid. I've got a lot of 780s...but no 600s

Those NOS 4100s are only 480cfm but not sure if that's close enuf...as they say.

While collecting Autolites, I wan across a device that "converts" a 4100 to mechanical 2ndaries...No, not a double pumper but wonder if that's close enuf or makes it better... Hmmmm

I should have already tested it on my Paxton/Cobra airbox/enclosure by now.

Phil

Kram350,

Those are great pix of the single 4v lid...so thanks. The underside vanes are critical I'm sure for anything close to 'proper' distribution.

Where would I get a lid gasket...or did you just make your own? It came with 1 but it's toast; dry/cracked/torn.



Upon inspection, my 'new' intake appears to be unmolested...even NOS showing no bolt marks, corrosion, mods or gasket/pookie...just a lot of dust

Scott, Good points.

I'll be more careful with my inspection as I look for alterations, repairs & not just stamp/cast #s/IDs.

I know that switching lids on a plenum
Style box is less than ideal..but knowing Ford/Shelby/Buddy Bar made a single 4v lid means something went into it even if it was meant for the racer to modify as required.

🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

Phil

Wow thanks... that is great info.

Was the 1x4v lid 'factory Shelby/Buddy Bar" or fabricated? I was gonna see if my single Cross-Boss lid would work.

So a LeMans cam probably would not be enough to fill the plenum till 3500 rpm?

Sounds like I need some better heads too.

Anyone have any information on this "SHELBY" lettered ram box. Says Buddy Bar inside. Note the 4100s mounted.

Now, it's got a 2x4v lid where the carbs are mounted side by-side...that makes it look like a cross-ram. It looks similar to a mini-plenum or a cross-boss lid.


I'm wondering:
-did they work well (drag or road race)
-were different lids available;like 1x4v

Thanx, Phil

SOLD..

Sold 8D25 unmarked nodular case/carrier.


Anyone know how to read the date on the C5AW-C Daytona pinion support?

L4 or A-2?

Thx, Phil

The 70 B2 steel wheels were 15x7 & ofc, disk brake compatible. 69s only came with Magnums; painted or chrome.

There were quite a few out there as it was the standard offering in 2 version with hub caps/trim rings. Chrome Magnum 500s was the only factory option that year and the iconic design became the defacto "BOSS Wheel" upgrade from there forward.

The plain steel rims are fairly rare as most were discarded for the various Day 2 Alum options as well...

You would SAVE some $ by not hunting  down the special caps/covers/rings.

Thanks Tim, I got your msg.

Late 68/early 69 Nodular carrier, no "N"

C4AW-B 8D24 fresh/new bearings.

I'll sell complete or stripped but it's built with some incorrect parts like;

28-spl Det Locker & 4.56 Richmond gears
but Daytona pinion suppt & the longish yoke fits properly w/1330 size so likely correct. (cap ODs measure 1 1/8", 3 5/8 W)

1600  complete + shipping
700  bare w/caps & I'll ship

Price is obo.
Open to trades, suggestions, whatever.

Im not sure what this is worth but know someone here will clue me in.

I'd keep it but:
Too early for my 69 B2 (31-spl)
Too late for my 66 stealth GT.

I have a set of 15x7 that were re-rimmed (from 6" rims) by the guy in Denver....now closed down. 
They look like the Shelby style Magstars (big window)

PM for info. They come with 4 new center caps (Paradise Wheels).

Phil