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The only place I`ve ever seen texture on the under side of the trunk lid is in between the framing. the textured part is the underside of the top panel. Unlike on the end caps I do not believe this was intentional but rather a result of the molding process. As for the fiberglass end cap textured areas, I have had success, after great practice, using graining paper like comes in vinyl repair kits and polyester primer. The can buy large sheets of the graining paper or other options like silicone graining pads from https://vinylpro.com/collections/grain-texture-1. What I've done is mask off the edge and prep the part per instructions for the polyester primer so it adheres, it`s essentially spray-able body filler. With only the area you want to texturize exposed, apply a single coat of the polyester primer. The tricky part is when to use the graining paper, because of the complex curve in the corner it will not lay flat and will wrinkle. so you can't just lay it onto the wet poly ad let it harden, but if the poly is semi hardened you can press it into the soft poly doing the main area with a single larger piece then and work the corner carefully with smaller pieces so as not to make edges where the graining paper edge is. that's the hard part. And you have to use fiberglass mold release wax on the paper so it doesn't get stuck and pull the poly loose. That's available on Amazon from total boat. Like I said, its tricky, but can be done. I`ve never tried the silicon pads mainly because they are not quite big enough. I`ve also used this with good results repairing the interior fiberglass panels. When selecting the paper  I like VP5 for 69 stiff and VP3 and W1 on the interior panels, but you can choose, remember the graining paper is reverse of what it makes, so what appears to be the peaks in the pic ends up as the valleys when done. practice,it took me a while and still doesn't always come out right on the first try. If you don't like it riht away while the poly is still semi soft you can usually scrape it off easily and use acetone to clean off any left behind, then try again bt keep in mind the poly hardens like any fiberglass resin based material so you have a limited working window not only with the parts but also to clean the spray gun out. Now if your not that picky and want an easy cheat, you could just mask and spray the polyester primer light dry passes to make a pseudo texture, but it won't have the vinyl look of the original. And if you put it on too wet it will flow out to just look like orange peel before it sets. Hope this helps. Bruce

having the carb reworked for car 6S087. Does anyone have or know where to get the ink stamps to redo them after its replated? Thank you in advance.

Jeff I have and am working on multiple cars spanning from a December GT500, a Late February GT350 and am April GT500

what would identify assembly line brake calipers on a 67 GT350 and 500? Casting numbers no doubt but what ones please.

I have and would not go with that system. I don't like the case lay out, the controls do not look original and the cast crank pulley, just no. I prefer The Vintage air system allows you to use factory registers which makes the cabin area look completely stock. I have also changed the dash pad and cut the lower dash for the outer vents when converting from non AC. Which I prefer over the cheesy vents they all come with if you order the kit for a non AC car. So I order for with factory air and make the mods myself. Outer vents are now nicely reproduced, only the center dash pad vent is hard to find really nice but they are out there. But I also have  a cut up dash I saved the end vent areas from to use as templates to do this. the thing is this system works GREAT!!! I`m in Texas, so you know it needs to work good down here. I`m not as thrilled with the engine compartment components but they do work. The lines and all route through the stock radiator support hole and they have a nice backing plate that fills it. I typically put a stock black foam seal on as well to make it less obvious. However the condenser type and size and dryer are completely different. If you order the kit for with factory AC you will need to get a factory 3 groove crank pulley and possibly the cast iron compressor mounting bracket that goes to the cyl. head. Although the kit I`m installing now I did not have to have that as it came with a custom compressor mount I kind of like better as its easier to adjust the belt tension. You also have to drill some extra holes in the firewall to mount it but it is pretty easy to do following their instructions. As got how long it takes, that depends on how skilled you are and what route you take. if like me you want the factory vents then the lower dash is going to have to come out and that is a big project, however with the lower dash out, installing the case and locating and making the drain hole becomes very easy. I`m typically doing the install during the initial assembly of a fresh build so its not as big of a deal as having to take things apart then reassemble them when done. It typically takes me 2 4 hour days that way. if your having to carefully disassemble and do stuff you've never done then figure double that. Take your time. The careful disassembly and not damaging anything part is harder than the actual install. But it is worth it. I do this stuff for a living and was an ASE certified tech once upon a time. Hope that helps, feel free to message me if you have questions or PM me and I`ll give you my phone number. Bruce

I have an original front valance that was broken and repairs started. Can take pics and send to phone if interested. i`m in Houston TX. Bruce

I may have an NOS dash emblem, I`ll have to do some digging and let you know. I know I have a GT500.

Selling off some of my stash of NOS Shelby parts. Up for sale I have a pair of NOS 68 early chrome quarter pane reflector bezels, there are the flush rectangular ones. part number on the boxes is S8MS-15A436-A. They are brand new never been mounted and are in mint condition. One box is starting to fall apart. Asking $300 for the pair plus shipping from Houston Texas. Feel free to PM me for contact info and photos. I had them at All Ford Carlisle a few weeks back. Bruce

Looking for drivers side original hood screens. I need 2 drivers front screens and one drivers rear screen for 2 projects. Can anyone help? Thanks, Bruce

I got 2 private messages from him too and suspected as much so I reported him as well. I see he`s gone now. Thanks Pete and the admins!!!

Thank you

Anybody else on the wanted to buy get a message from Millard.K like this reply to both of my wanted adds?  millard.k

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WTB 69 GT500 ram air seal
« Sent to: krconvertman on: Today at 08:58:01 AM »

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Hello, are you still looking? you can get in touch with flitch on flitch.amy@yahoo.com if still available for sale .

 millard.k

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Got this message today on this wanted add and on my other looking for fastback quarter panels. I did a google search and found this same persons yahoo address listed on 3 wanted to buy items on a Corvette site, I suspect it is a scam. Just wanted to give our people a heads up, and if I`m wrong and you`ve had good dealings with them please let me know. Thank you       View

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WTB 69 GT500 ram air seal
Millard.K « Sent to: krconvertman on: Today at 08:58:01 AM »

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Hello, are you still looking? you can get in touch with flitch on flitch.amy@yahoo.com if still available for sale .

You may also want to consider reinforcing the under side where it`s starting to crack before putting them back on. I do not have a suggestion of a material to use, sorry. Maybe someone else does? Other than I have some original 68 panels that were cut for speakers so are no longer suitable to go back into a car.

just talked to the guy making seals and one is done buy color is wrong so need to get correct color foam.

That`s good news. Just curious, has the person making them taken into account engine compartment heat when sourcing the foam material? Would be bad if it was to break down quickly or worse melt, especially in southern states Like Texas? Thanks