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428 engine. The tool is used to bleed down the lifters to check clearance for engines with non-adjustable rocker arms.

I definitely checked eBay and FaceBook marketplace but didn't have any luck. Would prefer to buy one of course, but wasn't sure if someone had one they weren't willing to sell.

Looking for someone with a T58P-6565-A hydraulic lifter bleed tool. Been looking for a while and haven't been able to find one, so hoping to fabricate.

do your timing by ear

listen for detonation: or "spark knock" and then back off the distributor slightly

Well, I agree with this in theory it definitely needs to be driven under load. As Bob mentioned there are many factors such as resurfacing of cylinder head in deck, combustion chamber, piston, size, etc., as well as the octane used.
I don't think you're gonna be able to hear that nation on an engine that's idling and not underload to a point where were really matter. I suggest you start with an initial around 10 to 12° and drive it and see if it does pain. If it does under a heavy load and back it off 2° and check again. I think you'll find you probably can get up getting around 12 if you go up to 93 pump gas.

I'm not sure where I'd find 93 pump gas.

The other thing that's a big factor is your harmonic balancer. Has it been rebuilt or checked? A lot of these balancers actually can shift a little bit overtime and spend which will make the factory timing Marks non-Reliable.

No, I haven't done that. Are these easy to rebuild or is there someone folks use?

Always use 91, with some percentage of ethanol nowadays.

What are folks using for initial timing on 67 GT500's with the stock distributor? Book says 8 -- which is what I have marked in chalk and am still using.

Interesting, I wonder why my gap is so much smaller to get to 33.

Out of my continued curiosity, I ran across this thread:
https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=28836.0

So is the correct part C5AE (traditional) or C5AF (transistorized)? The thread I referenced above seems to indicate C5AF, and if it were that, the manual would be correct vis a vis Tim's comments on 22-24.

Alright, with my primary point gap at .017" and secondary at .015", I get a dwell of 31-32, which I'll call good. With them both at .017", I was just below 30.  Not sure why the gap is so small to hit that dwell since Tim/JD confirmed the gaps should be .019" to .021".

Will leave it at that since this thread has a different purpose and focus   

Well on that note, since you're one of the concours experts Jeff, any idea why the original owners manual seems to have incorrect dwell values? 

Hope this helps, page 60 of a 1967 Shelby GT350/500 Owners Manual...

That's exactly why I started this thread.  It says 22-24 degrees (428) (combined @ idle)(both).

Interesting.  Any idea why it refers to 22-24 rather than 30-33 in the manual?  The original was obviously not transistorized, and it doesn't make any reference to it.  Where did you get 30-33 from?

The transistorized refers to the R code Galaxies which used same distributor
Where did I get 30-33 from? Working on Ford dual points since I was 13 

But this is a 1967 Shelby GT350/GT500 Owners Manual, which wasn't transistorized. I'm not challenging your assertion because 22-24 seemed low to me, but surprised they'd have this big of a misprint.

I would also say if you can push on the side of the shaft and see the point gap change, it needs a new bushing.

If I push on the side of the shaft, I can see it move, and I can feel a point gap change with .001" feelers, but can't measure a change with them. Meaning the play at the points is less than .001".

Interesting.  Any idea why it refers to 22-24 rather than 30-33 in the manual?  The original was obviously not transistorized, and it doesn't make any reference to it.  Where did you get 30-33 from?

Here's the 67 manual I have which specifically shows .019-.021" breaker gap for all models and 22-24 degrees combined for the 428.