Messages

R.R. and Bob, Thanks for the recommendation but he does not have OEM factory connectors. Or maybe does not want to sell what he has. I can't blame him, seems the plugs are tough to find in decent shape anymore. I'm sure many have cracked or broken over the years like mine have. Thanks again.

I was hoping I could slip the wires out of the broken connector and insert in the aftermarket piece, but the connectors are a different shape - round vs. rectangle.
     Bob's suggestion would be the way to go if I can find a donor harness. Or I guess go with a new one.

The connector that attaches the wiring to the headlight bulb on our 1966 carryover is broken as you can see in the attached picture. One option that I'm finding through an online search is to buy an aftermarket pigtail and cut-and-splice that into the wire loom. It appears that CJ pony parts has a good quality aftermarket connector. However, I would rather not cut and splice wires.
     Is there a source anyone knows of that offers an exact OEM connector that I could plug the old wires into? If not, are my only options to either buy an entire new wire loom for the headlights or splice in the aftermarket pigtail?

Be patient! Get the exact car your heart desires. It will give you joy every time you look at it. Plus, the hunt is very fun and exciting.
Jeff

PM sent on wheels and wheel covers.
Jeff

I have had this Holley carb for many, many years. The parts all move freely and appears to be in pretty good condition. Here are the numbers that I can see:

S8MS-9510-C    (should be for a 4 speed GT350)
List 4231
823            (8=1968, 2=February or 2nd month, 3=3rd week of February)

Metering Blocks:
6478
4778

6739
6210

Please post any comments that would be helpful to a prospective buyer so I can sell this accurately. I am asking $900 to put a price out there but open to offers. I would rather see this on someone's GT350 than in my storage.
Please call or text me for more pictures or questions. (720) 260-0258 
Thanks for your interest. Jeff

Hi Jeff,
    Yes, I have a Carryover. #074.

Kram350, yes. I have discovered this car has the '67 caps with the coarse threads.

I am adding to this post as I try and get the shock tower braces/caps/bee hives correct on our Carryover. When it comes to the washers that were welded onto the caps, I have seen pictures where part of the washer has been cut off making it "D" shaped. While Virginia Mustang has an excellent picture on their blog of an original cap from a '65 GT350 and the washer is a full circle. Did the factory install both ways? Does this depend on the year? One guess I can make is because the '65s and Carryovers came with Konis, they received the full washer and when Ford moved away from Konis, they went to the "D" shaped washer? Again, just me guessing.
       By the way, if anyone has a nice set of caps for the '65-'66 with clean threads and no pitting they would part with, please PM me.
Thanks
Jeff

Thanks Charles. I'll round up a '65-'66 set. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

I'm fixing a few details on our 1966 Carryover. I learned SAI used some special bolts to attach the top of the front Koni shocks. I ordered these special bolts and when we went to change them out with the bolts already in place, realized immediately the new special bolts are fine thread vs, coarse thread on the car. 
    My question is, are the new bolts the wrong bolts? Or do I have the wrong upper mounting bracket?
    The bolts are the most expensive bolts I will ever buy at $120 for a set of four so would like to learn what I need?

Here is a picture of the date code on a Kelsey Hayes caliper for a Carryover car. I don't know about 1969 calipers. If this picture does not apply to the original poster's question, let me know and I will remove to avoid confusion.
     As you can see, the date is stamped into the caliper and is difficult to see. The date format is the day of the year 168 = June 16 and the year 5 = 1965.

Here is a post from the late Jim Cowles at Shelby Parts & Restoration back in 2019:


acman63
#12

July 16, 2019, 06:02:16 PM
From my experience they pretty much phased out the aluminum T10s right around the time that they went to under ride traction bars.  Ive seen aluminum in cars on the 1000s serial wise  and Ive seen all cast iron as low as in the 1200s. Ive never seen any factory minutes or paperwork showing they mixed and matched alloy with cast iron in the production cars but Ive seen ads for the transmissions that way .  the tailshafts were very fragile and they broke easily
QUOTE
MORE...
SAAC Concours Chairman

Owner Shelby Parts and Restoration Since 1977

SAAC original first year member

That is a most impressive list of cars you and your dad own. I would love that collection.
      For what it's worth, I own Carryover #074 which was likely assembled not too long after your car. The T-10 is the reverse of yours with an aluminum case and a cast iron tail shaft.

[emails and texts will be ignored]

Update on #074 -- I have removed the fenders. The car was taken to a dry ice blaster to remove the undercoating from the inner fender area. This allows for a clear and accurate evaluation of the front sheet metal. Yesterday, (Saturday, May 30, 2026) the car was inspected by a person who has judged Shelbys and who I consider an expert. The head of our SAAC Rocky Mountain region who I also consider very knowledgeable in the details of these cars was also present.
     **please call if I can answer any questions. I apologize but emails and texts will be ignored. Over the years I have found truly interested buyers will take the time to call. Scammers and picture collectors text or email. Thanks for your understanding.  (720) 260-0258.

The shift rods and tabs that mount the rods to the transmission are also different between the Top Loader and the T-10. I removed a Hurst and replaced with an OEM shifter on a Carryover with a T-10 a few years ago. As I recall, a little time searching on the web will provide images of the differences. I know this is considered heresy, but the car shifts better with the original shifter and rods in my opinion than with the Hurst. And the reverse lock-out is a plus. But I do miss the T handle.